Andrew Cousins Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Can any one recommend a scroll saw, fret saw good enough for hobby use building planes from scratch. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Consider the Axminster one at about 74pounds. My Axminster one is still going strong at over 20 years old and is very similar - latest one has a few extras. If you want to spend more look for quick release blade tensioning rather than variable speed. Make sure any saw comes with fretsaw blade adaptors as well as pin ended blade fitting. Pin ended are handy but only quite coarse TPI and are not as easily available as fretsaw blades. Weight varies a lot on similar looking machines - heavy means cast iron table while light might mean cast aluminium table or pressed steel. Heavy is best unless you want to move it around. Ali might be easier to move around and won't rust in cold shed. Pressed steel is poor alternative. Edited By kc on 29/06/2016 11:17:20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will -0 Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 I have a similar one sold through sealy rather than axminster. Looks exactly the same and probably works the same, has been fine for me. Jut the ticket for cutting ply wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David perry 1 Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 We have a SIP one, works fine. Avoid anything with "silver" in the name!! D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Cousins Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 Thanks Guys. I was looking for something not to heavy as I have limited space in my shed and it will be moved around to give me build space. You have given me a few options Thanks. AndyC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Parker Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Hi Andrew, I bought this one recently in Machine Mart for £99, variable speed control handy for different materials. They did have others at a lower price but this one looked and felt sturdy and like you when not in use it is stored underneath the bench. Hope it is of some help Regards Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Any machine that is not set up ready to go at a moments notice will not get used too much and you won't become very proficient with it! So a permanant position is desirable. I find the scrollsaw sits well alongside a small drilling machine and the work for each does not get very obstructed- the drill table is higher and swings out of the way. Each machine is placed at about 45 degrees to the other so the work passes easily. I like my scrollsaw a lot but it does not get that much use for model aircraft - most formers could be easily cut with a coping saw and a fine tooth pullsaw for the straight bits. Also a jewellers saw ( piercing saw) - small hand fretsaw really - could be handy. All three are about 18 pounds in total from ToolStation etc. If space is tight than that might be a better/ cheaper option together with a Permagrit block to finish off. Aircraft plans are now divided into tradional plans with just a couple of straight sided ply formers and rest balsa or the modern plans with every part a really fancy interlocking shape which is ideal for laser cutting but a pain to cut out yourself so better bought laser cut. Liteply can be cut with a Stanley knife quicker and straighter than with a scrollsaw. So the scrollsaw gets used infrequently. However " He who dies with the most tools wins " so don't let me put anyone off buying one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanN Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 I recently bought the one KC linked to - although it was then on offer at just under £65 Haven't used it yet but there is one "watch out", if you are considering this model. Mine doesn't weigh anything like the quoted 20kg - even though the model no etc are all as stated - and one of the reasons I bought it was the weight as I was advised that more weight is good for less vibration. Have queried this with Axminster and am waiting to hear back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanN Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Rechecked last night and the Axminster item weighs 14kg, not the 20kg stated on their website - and also stated on a plate on the fretsaw itself. A big difference. (I also noticed for the first time that a label on the packaging it arrived in said "16kg" ) Axminsters response is Thank you for your recent enquiry The stated weight of 20kgs is to cover the carrier stipulation of extra packaging that our exported parcels will require. The standard packaging as you have already confirmed is approx 16kgs. We would not consider the stated weight of 16kgs to render the Scroll saw less stable, and may I suggest that you use the saw and confirm its performance to your expectations. We would be happy to arrange a collection for the saw if they are not met. Kind regards Edited By IanN on 30/06/2016 11:16:14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Axminster are a very good family firm and good at refunds as their reply offers. However I think you have the proper machine 14 kilos is quite heavy and about the same as mine I estimate. It's as heavy as you would want to move around! If it has a cast iron table its the heaviest type. Keep it - it's a good buy at less than current price! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iqon Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 try screwfix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanN Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Posted by kc on 30/06/2016 11:54:59: Axminster are a very good family firm and good at refunds as their reply offers. However I think you have the proper machine 14 kilos is quite heavy and about the same as mine I estimate. It's as heavy as you would want to move around! If it has a cast iron table its the heaviest type. Keep it - it's a good buy at less than current price! Yes, they have since confirmed it's the right machine and I'm more than happy to keep it I did point out that quoting a weight that bears no relation to the product and is simply to cover export packaging is possibly a little misleading, and of no relevance to UK purchasers, and they have promised to review the website data. I'm still none the wiser re why the spec stamped on the plate attached to the fretsaw says 20kg though. Oh well Anyway, looking forwards to trying it out. Regardless of the anomaly with the description, it looks to be very good value v the alternatives so if it does the job I'll be well pleased Edited By IanN on 30/06/2016 12:30:03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Blade tension is the critical thing for good cuts - you can 'tune' the blade by plucking it like a musical instrument until it sounds right. Don't ask me what note it is as I am not musical! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 I bought an Axminster Jet JSS-16 to replace my old cast iron B&Q one. The Jet is rather on the light side but is OK. The old one is good quality but started to break blades for some reason and now just lurks in the garage taking up space and is free to a good home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Was it breaking thin fretsaw blades or the thicker pin ended? Thin blades break easily especially the cheap ones, good quality blades are more flexible and last much longer. Pin ended never seem to break because the pins allow pivoting unless something is bent. If it's the machine then it is probably the blade holders are out of alignment or the bearings on the arms are worn. Worth somebody's effort to try to restore it I would say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 I don`t normally use thin fretsaw blades, mainly pin ended 24 tpi. The first blade lasted a year of regular use on ply/thick balsa. The alignment has been adjusted. Could be the arm bearings though. It just seems to happen at random even with heavy duty blades and free running, not even cutting anything. Quality blades are not cheap so I got to the stage when it would be more economical to buy a new one since I use one of these very much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 How much tension do you need to the blade I've got a new scroll saw and just cannot get it to run straight the cut drifts to the left and the blade appears to twist to the left as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 Martin's old machine. could be something to do with the bottom blade mount - bent and hitting frame or hitting a build up of sawdust& waste. Could be the counterweight is loose and not counterbalancing. Mine does not have a dust blower or arm cover so I don't have exact idea of those bits, but they could be stopping the arm from moving properly under certain conditions ( worn bearing? ). There is little to go wrong and everything is simple and visble except the bearings Martian. Plenty of tension is required until plucking the blade produces a high note. Frankly no scrollsaws cut really straight - it's skill & practice that overcomes the machiness tendancy to veer off line. But blade tension and very steady slow feeding the material help to keep to the line. Selecting a coarser blade may help. Either cut the straight parts oversize and sand back with a Permagrit tool or use a fine bladed hand saw for straight bits is the easy way out. If cutting ply - say 3mm - then try a heavily scored line on the straight bits. Couple of scores with a Stanley knife perhaps then the blade will probably follow the groove. If the blade is twisting then check the blade pins are seating properly, but more likely not sufficient tension has been applied. It is said for bandsaws that one should cut an equal number of left curves as right, to avoid the band becoming twisted to one side. Might be similar with fretsaw blades too but there may be no easy way to avoid that. Edited By kc on 01/07/2016 15:31:38 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 KC thank you very much for the advice,practice practice it is then get all my scrap ply out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 I find that cutting a straight line becomes quite easy, but a curve is very different when the saw blade is fixed compared with, say, the work piece being fixed and the saw blade moveable. I have got the blade alignment, which is adjustable, spot on but it still breaks them. I give in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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