Engine Doctor Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 Hi Cymaz . I note you said you have glued the wing together. Do the instruction tell you to glue them together ? The reason for asking is that I have been given a Wot4 XL with a two piece wing and have flown it that way a few times although I did wonder about the short hardwood wing joiner. I wasn't given any instructions with the model so would appreciate info on weather the wing are intended to be glued as a one piece set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kim Taylor Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 Jumping in in case Cymaz isn't about during working hours. The wing is definitely supposed to be epoxied together - the joiner in my own kit, whilst strong, wasn't a good fit in the wing and needed to be glued, otherwise the wing would be able to move about in an adjustable dihedral sort of fashion. Would put a lot of stress on the wing bolts, I would have thought. Would be nice to be able to build it as a two piece wing for transportation purposes, although even that wouldn't help me as I've just realised that the fuselage won't fit in my car, even with the back seats down - doh!! Luckily I've got my works van, although that's going to need skipping out before I can put the 'plane in it! KIm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 That's interesting as the Wots Wot XL wings are two piece! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 Given the rest of the build quality, the wings are epoxied together.....REALLY GLUED ! The plastic plug that locks the T.E. was covered in epoxy, the brace was well whetted and more glue poured in the hole. There is a small pair of matching holes that the servo threads came out of...there wasa dowel inserted and epoxied. 30 min glue was left for several hours to set off. Don't worry chaps, these puppies will not part.....ever. Steps 17-20, pages 5+6 of the manual. Edited By cymaz on 09/08/2016 17:08:30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 Posted by Engine Doctor on 09/08/2016 09:17:52: Hi Cymaz . I note you said you have glued the wing together. Do the instruction tell you to glue them together ? The reason for asking is that I have been given a Wot4 XL with a two piece wing and have flown it that way a few times although I did wonder about the short hardwood wing joiner. I wasn't given any instructions with the model so would appreciate info on weather the wing are intended to be glued as a one piece set. Here is the manual. Hope this helps.....bottom of the page and it's a PDF download. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 Started improving the area where the tank is going to sit. Extra ply was added to the sides to increase side strength, corner pieces of hard wood added to improve corner stability. Then the lite ply tank base will be added and screwed into place. An extra ply U/C plate was also added. Better U/C bolt found in my spares and will be cut to length Also hot epoxy was allowed to soak into the inside of the fire wall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 Spent 2 hours.....2 hours...! installing the ignition box and opto isolator. There's not much to see after all that time. The ignition battery was put on the floor behind the firewall wrapped in foam. This was then capped off with some lite ply and a spruce stay screwed into the fuselage side walls. The ignition box and isolator where then foam wrapped zipped tied to the stay. This keeps all the ignition as far from the Rx as possible. It's looking like the Rx will be fixed just in front of the rudder servo, approx 4/5" from the ignition. Hopefully this will prove satisfactory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 12, 2016 Author Share Posted August 12, 2016 If anyone has read my last post............don't forget to do what I have just done. After all last evening working away, I forgot to put the engine mount blind nuts in. So it all came out Edited By cymaz on 12/08/2016 21:07:12 Edited By cymaz on 12/08/2016 21:09:01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 Posted by cymaz on 12/08/2016 21:06:07: If anyone has read my last post............don't forget to do what I have just done. After all last evening working away, I forgot to put the engine mount blind nuts in. So it all came out Edited By cymaz on 12/08/2016 21:07:12 Edited By cymaz on 12/08/2016 21:09:01 Don't worry, that's exactly the sort of thing I do all of the time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 Posted by cymaz on 09/08/2016 06:47:01: Cheers Rich2. I have left the wing overnight....it's still glued together ! I will fill in the gap on the LE tongue with some thin ply and epoxy. Next few job is to make a shelf for the tank, add some bracing to the undercarriage area, mount the engine switches etc. All artf planes I've built have had a bit more "meat" added to the undercarriage plate, they need it I fly from a rough field and always have problems with the u/c. I find swapping for carbon fibre helps a lot, seems to absorb the bumps much better. In fact I recently damaged the c/f u/c on my yak, but no damage done to the airframe. Replacements are cheap enough from HK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 14, 2016 Author Share Posted August 14, 2016 Posted by Rich2 on 13/08/2016 07:36:26: Posted by cymaz on 09/08/2016 06:47:01: Cheers Rich2. I have left the wing overnight....it's still glued together ! I will fill in the gap on the LE tongue with some thin ply and epoxy. Next few job is to make a shelf for the tank, add some bracing to the undercarriage area, mount the engine switches etc. All artf planes I've built have had a bit more "meat" added to the undercarriage plate, they need it I fly from a rough field and always have problems with the u/c. I find swapping for carbon fibre helps a lot, seems to absorb the bumps much better. In fact I recently damaged the c/f u/c on my yak, but no damage done to the airframe. Replacements are cheap enough from HK. Totally agree! I had a HK carbon fibre u/c for my Giles. Really nice piece of kit. It survived the crash but is too wide for the Wot. I am on the email list when the new 100mm wide ones arrive in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 Be careful sometimes those email lists don't work, it's happened to me before and I've been browsing and seen the item I needed in stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 14, 2016 Author Share Posted August 14, 2016 Did a CG balance today using my Vanessa Rig ( no not Diana ) I assume that the horizontal stabiliser is at 0*. Put a small bubble level on the tail and levelled the plane up until level. Then added the Rx battery, levelled up the plane again. The plumb bob indicates the CG position - not where it should be! The balance point without Rx battery was 117mm from the LE. The battery was added to the nose A bit of lead added... Might need a bit of fine tuning but I reckon this is a good method Edited By cymaz on 14/08/2016 13:34:27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flight1 Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 hijack alert see here Pete putting you incidence meter to good work taa.. Edited By flight1 on 14/08/2016 18:34:01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 14, 2016 Author Share Posted August 14, 2016 You're going to need a bigger work bench Finalised and finished the engine mount, all bolts done with locktite. Finished off the ignition and isolator, batteries now secure in the front behind firewall. Installed tank floor and tied up the wires underneath. Got the throttle to fully work and glued the snake in. Installed the wheels ( not the foam rubbish ones out of the box). So not a bad day! Also Mrs Cymaz and I plus number 1 daughter went for a walk at Cardinham and I was allowed an icecream..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 14, 2016 Author Share Posted August 14, 2016 Just had a quick check before bed.....we have good spark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 16, 2016 Author Share Posted August 16, 2016 Still plodding on. Mrs Cymaz is being very patient with me being in the garage for a couple of hours after work each night. Hopefully, on Wednesday night, while Mrs C is at work the tail will be glued in and trued up. Today the tail was prepared. The film was cut using a soldering iron, so as not to cut the wood. Balsa plates were glues in with CA top and bottom of the horizontal stab slot to increase glue area. The tail fin had cocktail stick glued in. These go right through the tail. Engine 99% done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 17, 2016 Author Share Posted August 17, 2016 Wednesday night.....Mrs C at work so got on and glued the tail in. The cocktail sticks really helped to get the rudder post nice and firm. There will be 2mm carbon braces top and bottom later.... Had lots of views but not much input?? Thanks for the interest shown so far, there really isn't much to say on an artf build like this My OCD hits overload when gluing a tail on. 30 min epoxy helps but all-in-all it was a 2 hour job.....just can't rush these things . Cutting the notch from the rear helped no end in stopping the glue getting scraped out as the horizontal stab went in. There was just enough give to prise it open. I was chuffed to bits then realised the rear fuselage tail piece that i cut out should not have been glued back in until the elevator was fixed in...doh!! Still 5 mins later with a Dremel and the slot miraculously reappeared.... Edited By cymaz on 17/08/2016 20:16:24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kim Taylor Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Hi Cymaz Going well, I see. I've just thought, be careful when you fit the rudder horn. On my kit, the pre drilled hole was in the wrong place, which I didn't notice until I connected up the pull wires, which were rubbing on the bottom of the exit slots. I had to re-drill the rudder, but of course there's now an unsightly hole. I'll try and get a bit of profilm in the same green and iron it over to disguise it a bit. Finally got mine all together and radio installed. Weighs in at 9lbs 7oz ready to fly. I managed to get it to balance without adding any weight, which was a stroke of luck. I'm hoping with around 1435 watts and a 16 x 10 prop the performance will be OK for my (sadly lacking) skill level. I won't clutter up your thread with my build, but if anyone's interested, I'll start a new thread with all the details and pictures of the completed setup. Kim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 17, 2016 Author Share Posted August 17, 2016 Kim, I don' t mind if you tag along on this thread. I have a Precedent Stampe build thread still going after it began 30 October 2012. Proved very useful with lots of builders all doing the same thing and swapping hints and tips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 well done how do you find working in the garage? what about in the winter? and how do you keep it dry? I've been thinking of using my garage instead of the loft... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 The garage is part of the house,( lucky me) so I can walk straight into the utility. However is gets bitter cold in winter, so most of the builds are done autumn and spring. There is no loft insulation either, brrrrrrrr. No condensation, the floor has a DPM. However the garage door does face directly south, a nice sunny winters day and it's quite pleasant for a cople of hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 Finished the rudder and tail wheel tonight. Friday and over the weekend there is not much now to do. Tail bracing to fit Cover the holes in the rear of the fuselage with black film and a small patch under the firewall Double check all nuts and bolts, range check. Caharge batteries and fuel up Thats about it! I've not referred to the manual in the entire build, only to check throws and CG. So, it's been a simple build. Only spoilt by the hardware and some wood quality. I will change the U/C for a HK when they come into stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 I can't understand why they class them as an ARTF I've yet to find one. Edited By trebor on 18/08/2016 21:26:06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 Always Ready To Frustrate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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