Introducing 3D Printing

[Ian Jones]

3D printers for the home user are becoming more affordable and more common but even so it's still a bit of dark art.

However, there's lot's of 3D printers out there and lots of software for each step of the process, not to mention all the jargon which it seems we are expected to understand.

There are issues that are generic and issues that are relevant to specific models. So with that thought in mind this topic has been setup so that there can be threads for specific models and threads for matters that affect 3D printing generally.

It’s a growing part of modelling and there’s a lot to learn, so don’t be shy in starting threads on what you know and to ask about what you don’t know.

[Glyn44]

My first question: Why do I "need" one?

I've really no idea what it could do for my modelling projects, except empty my wallet even more. So please enlighten me!

[Trex700e]

I fly FPV quads and 3D aircraft and have found 3D printing really useful.

For example, I have added winglets to some of my aircraft and printed loads of quad frames. If I break a quad frame I can simply create a new one.

Also I love all the different varieties of filament available.

[Ian Jones]

Posted by Glyn44 on 18/10/2016 16:20:55:

My first question: Why do I "need" one?

I've really no idea what it could do for my modelling projects, except empty my wallet even more. So please enlighten me!

For the same reason you need a modelling knife Glyn, it's a workshop tool that can enable the building a multitude of things, only limited by imagination.

[Barrie Dav 2]

It's and expensive workshop tool though and in it's infancy. Better and cheaper machines will come along in a few years time. I'll wait.

[Cuban8]

I suppose it's a bit like owning any expensive bit of workshop kit, if you can justify the cost then there's no problem.
I can't think of where I'd need one myself, as I enjoy making all the widgets I need using trad methods that cost only pennies.
If I did need a printed item, I'd pay to get it done in the same way that I've had one or two bits turned up for me by a chap with a lathe.

[Andy Meade]

They aren't really in their infancy at all - fused layer deposition printers have been around for many years. I had turbine blade tooling made in 1999 via this method. The machines aren't expensive at all these days either - my printer cost £1200 2 years ago, and now you can buy something more capable for a sixth of that price. If it was cheaper than that I wouldn't buy it, over fears of cheap bearings on the axes.

[Ian Jones]

That's it Andy, all that's really new is the affordability.

Another aspect that puts people off is the jargon. As with all technology there's a fair bit of it. So I've started another thread "3D Jargon Buster" for us all to help each other along.

A few other threads that the inquisitive might find interesting:

Joining 3D Printed Parts

Malyan M180 3D Printer Thread

Show Us Your 3D Prints

No doubt there will be many more form other forumites appearing soon.

Edited By Ian Jones on 21/10/2016 21:38:44

[Ian Jones]

It looks like when I started this thread that I missed out a few things that are really important:

• What 3D printing is
• What a 3D Printer does

Time I put that right then.

What 3D printing is

A process where an object is created by placing layers of material on top of each other until the object is created. Each of these layers can be seen as a thinly sliced horizontal cross-section of the eventual object. This process can be likened to pottery when layers of clay are stacked on each other to form the shape of a pot. The obvious difference is that the former is an automated process whereas the latter is manual process.

What a 3D Printer does

As 3D printing is an automated process it will come as no surprise that some computer operations are involved in the process. In very basic terms these consist of creating a 3D image of the object to be made and that image is then prepared for printing by producing a file containing the all of the layers to be printed. These layers are more commonly referred to as slices and therefore the software that produces the slices is known as a 3D slicer.

Now this is where the 3D printer comes in. The file containing the slices is sent to the 3D printer which feeds molten material out through a nozzle to form the bottom layer of the object on the print bed. The mechanisms of the printer then move nozzle height to match the next layer which is then printed on top of the bottom layer. The process is repeated the many time necessary to create the object.

That pretty much sums it up!

[Trevor Rushton]

Thanks for your posts and enthusiasm Ian. I am currently hovering over the buy now button and will probably go for it shortly. My main concern is my own 3d cad limitation but the only way to improve is practice. If anyone is in need of inspiration as to what can be achieved take a look at the cockpit details here; this one is a Vampire but the same builder has several cockpit designs and mighty impressive they are too: **LINK**

[Andy Meade]

Here's one I designed and printed for my sixth scale A10, complete with keyfob screens for MFD's.

I hope to use a similar method for my Fouga Magister.

[Max Z]

Recently I took part in an interesting project involving 3D printing as an intermediate step, combining modern and ancient techniques to produce a part. I am a member of "The First Aviators", a group of enthousiasts who club together to build, maintain and fly models of the earliest planes. This group is mostly Dutch, with members residing in all parts of The Netherlands, but also include members in Germany and Belgium. We communicate with each other in a private section of Modelbouwforum.nl.

One of the achievements so far is flying a half scale model of a Blériot across the Alps, see **LINK** The same guy, Henk (our fearless leader), who built that Blériot is now building an even bigger version at 75%, and required a part to be cast in aluminium. This is the real thing in a full size museum display:

For that, he needed a master scaled down to the appropriate size, so he set the challenge of designing and printing one in 3D. Knowing a little about 3D printing (just the basics, no experience) and virtually nothing about casting metals, I took up the design part. Henk provided the design requirements and commented on my initial attempts until this was the final result:

The .stl file was the sent to another member of the group, who printed the parts (two halves were required). This is his slicer picture, where you can see it took almost all of the available space in his printer:

After 11 hours of printing, this was the first result:

The second part was printed, and the lot was sent to Henk, who set about making the moulds:

With this as the end result, a bit rough still, waiting for final machining:

I hope this is of interest when answering the question "What do I need a 3D printer for", at least it shows that modern and age-old techniques can live together very well.

Max.

Edited By Max Z on 22/11/2016 10:02:36

[Cuban8]

Anyone watching the documentary/drama series MARS, currently on National Geographic Channel? Our intrepid explorers have broken a suspension component on their rover and are struggling to get to their main base so they can 3D print a replacement part! Mind you, it is set in 2033

Anything like this happening now, perhaps at one of the Antarctic bases or aboard warships?

[Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator]

What an interesting thread! - definitely whetting my appertite!

BEB

[Mowerman]

In the 'super vet' series on Ch 4, 3D printing is used to produce replacement joints for cats and dogs, each one designed for the specific pet/joint. From what I could see ,the prints are done using electric arc and titanium. The items look fantastic, just think how small and intricate a knee joint for a cat must be. Of course the cost is never mentioned

[Andy Meade]

Very nice Max. I intend to give casting from printed parts a go next year - I've watched some excellent youtube tutorials on home made forges, and really fancy a go

[Max Z]

Posted by Max Z on 22/11/2016 09:35:42:

With this as the end result, a bit rough still, waiting for final machining:

 

And here it is in its final guise. I am guessing that Henk will replace the bolts with more period specific ones:

Edited By Max Z on 22/11/2016 19:30:09

[Ian Jones]

Posted by Trevor Rushton on 22/11/2016 07:04:57:

Thanks for your posts and enthusiasm Ian. I am currently hovering over the buy now button and will probably go for it shortly. My main concern is my own 3d cad limitation but the only way to improve is practice. If anyone is in need of inspiration as to what can be achieved take a look at the cockpit details here; this one is a Vampire but the same builder has several cockpit designs and mighty impressive they are too: **LINK**

Pleasure Trevor. Please let us know what you decide.

I'm just preparing another post to follow this one which you may be intereted in.

 

Edited By Ian Jones on 29/11/2016 16:44:17

[Ian Jones]

There's some excellent postings here, imagination clearly has no limits.

It has been quite rightly pointed out to me that my explanation of 3D printing was confined to 3D printing at home, that was intentional but it is worth bearing in mind that "there is more than one of skinning a cat" as it was put to me. I won't go into the other many technologies used in 3D printing since I would be way out my depth, however that is the point - if designing and printing is beyond you, your require a better finish, want a one-off or even just want to see how the object turns out then there are alternatives. In particular:

• Having designed an object you can have it printed by one of the many 3D model printing services. A search on the internet will identify many of them. The best printing services will examine your uploaded file and will tell you what you have to improve to create a printable design,what materials are available for printing it, and what the cost for various materials will be. Their printing process is dependent on the chosen material. Max Z has mentioned that he has used Shapeways in another thread and been pleased with the results.
• There's a good choice of websites that provide often free 3D designs that you can just download. These can be printed as they are without drawing a single line yourself or modified as you wish.
• Many of the sites which provide downloadable files also provide a printing service like theone I mentioned above. Trevor Rushton has mentioned a link to the good looking DH Vampire cockpit at Thingiverse **LINK**, I can't help to be impressed by the many detailed parts to downlaod and print, however the option to the order the parts through their printing service is there too

As I said I cannot provide information on alternative methods of 3D printing, though many of the 3D printing services do explain the processes they use.

[Max Z]

Posted by Ian Jones on 29/11/2016 16:46:52:

... "there is more than one way of skinning a cat" as it was put to me.

I wrote that in a PM to Ian, but I regret it. I love cats, and the thought of skinning one makes me shiver.......

[Dave Bran]

I have bought 3D printed items from various people and more commercial sources. Apart from the inherent ridging the results have been OK for the purpose bought. (and I do know about acetone softening/flattening before anyone offers that as a solution, which its not)

I'm fence sitting on buying, yes prices have fallen, but I'm expecting that ground breaking new method that'll obsolete all others overnight.

I can for now get around being in the tech race.

[Andy Meade]

The most effective product that gets rid of ridges is XC3D, imho. Works a charm.

Good luck on your fence sitting.

[Ian Jones]

Posted by Andy Meade on 30/11/2016 16:50:13:

The most effective product that gets rid of ridges is XC3D, imho. Works a charm.

Good luck on your fence sitting.

Andy, do you think this is directly due to the printer or the software supplied with it. I ask because if it's the software then perhaps it something that is available to everyone.

[Andy Meade]

I believe it's down to the resolution of the Z axis. The finer the print layers, the smaller the ridges on the surface. I guess X and Y axis accuracy play a part here too, but a quick sand really does fix most of what I see on my rickety old Up Plus, and that only has a Z resolution of 150 microns on the finest print setting.

[Ian Jones]

I must admit I overlooked the thickness setting for layers initialy - I just didn't realise it was optional, within the limits of the machine.

So, my grasp of this now is to use a coarse setting for protoyping (to get a quick result) and for the actual object choose a layer thickness suitable for the purpose. I've found that the finish at 0.2mm is quite acceptable in most cases however at 0.1mm the layers are so fine as to almost insignificant.