Hacker Vagabond 1.5m Aerobat

[Peter Garsden]

I wanted more light wind slope soarers as last year we seemed to have less strong winds - don't know if that is true. Also I decided to choose a plane for Christmas that was affordable.

It was a toss up between a Libelle and the Hacker. I appreciate that for no wind the Libelle is better but it has less of a wind range, so I chose this.

At the time there was no stock at T9 so my wife ordered it from Hacker EU. I wanted the foil covered version. I didn't realise that just meant cling film! It is also only applied to the wings. I went for the red model.

It is a multi aerobatic close to the slope model for reasonably light winds. What I don't know if how light a wind it will work in? I reckon that the limit will be about 6mph - does anyone know?

I bought the recommended 1600mah battery but not the Genning recommended servos because I remember meeting Andy Ellison up the Orme. His son had just written off the gears on the servos he was using. The cost of the Genning is £7.50 and you get what you pay for so I have gone for Savox of the same size and weight but the cost is £16.00 per servo or thereabouts, so we will see.

[Peter Garsden]

In typical German style the instructions are excellent. I have just received an Aeroic Stormbird, which comes with no instructions at all, not even the C of G. And you pay about 5 times the price - this is traditional for mouldies which is beyond my comprehension.

There is a bag of very interesting bits. The construction and methods are really clever, but this is a lighweight fairly delicate model, which is put together with thin cyano and foam to foam or UHU Por Glue.

I decided to transfer to bits to a sealable bag to make sure I lose nothing.

[Peter Garsden]

The first job is to reinforce the strength of the fuselage with carbon rods. Accurate mm measurements tell you where the 3mm cuts start and finish. The carbon rods are 3mm

[Peter Garsden]

The second job is to make 6mm cuts to house the control rods tubes, so how to show where on the side of the fuselage they should go? The answer is a cardboard template. One side has the elevator channel and the other the rudder. The instructions say not to glue them at this stage so as to adjust their positions when everything is together.

[Peter Garsden]

I couldn't see the top plywood former which holds the battery and servos until I realised it was inside the large canopy. Obviously it uses a smaller battery. T9 recommends a 1600mah four in line battery, which will fit the space. I attached it all the way along though the instructions say front first then back, so if this is a problem we will see later on.

[Phil Green]

I've just bought a Vagabond too, but not had chance to try it yet. Bought it from a clubmate who'd done a great assembly job but just didnt get along with it - still as new. I wanted a light-to-thermal-ish sloper that wasnt just a stooge to fly and the Vagabond sounded ideal, plus I like the idea of VTPR as a new challenge.

As you'll probably beat me to it I'm very much looking forward to your flight report!

Cheers
Phil

[Bill_B]

Hi Peter, I've recently put one of these together so if you've any queries regarding the build I'll be happy to assist.

BTW, Hacker Model Production, who make the Vagabond hail from the Czech Republik and aren't to be confused with Hacker Motor GmbH (Germany) who manufacture brushless motors.

[Dave Wilshere]

I've had one in the same scheme as yours for over a year. Some of my friends who got them at the same time did not get on with it...but I think it is misunderstood! Its not really a fly around slope soarer, you will be probably be disappointed if that's your thing. The short small wire joiner should give the clue, its not designed for high G turns, I call it a static aerobatic model, sit in front of you on the slope edge and perform rolls with no forward speed, flips in its own length. I've not tried it in less that 10-12mph winds, wouldn't think its a 'scratcher' As always the slope type and lift will be the decider.

Ensure your choice of elevator servo centres and that the pushrod is not sticky!

[Peter Garsden]

Hacker - yes of course not Germany - still good instructions.

Oh dear, hope it will fulfil what I want of it. We will have to see.

Thanks for the tips chaps. Come to think of it, I haven't seen the Hackers people bought at our club since.

[Peter Garsden]

Hacker - yes of course not Germany - still good instructions.

Oh dear, hope it will fulfil what I want of it. We will have to see.

Thanks for the tips chaps. Come to think of it, I haven't seen the Hackers people bought at our club since.

[Peter Garsden]

Could some nice moderator delete the mysterious duplicate posting here?

[Bill_B]

How's the build going?

[Dave Bran]

Had one since they were first released, have to say not that impressed. Lacking in penetration built as per instructions compared to my other fleet. Not that light wind worthy either. Better on the slope in a steady 10-12 with some ballast added, but not great above that as its flexibility starts to destroy its accuracy.

Have a Libelle, not much better impressed by that either.

Le Fish runs rings round the Vagabond and the original Alula (not the moulded ruined slope only one) is significantly better than the Libelle, which needs more lift/breeze than any other DL glider I own, and has a very vulnerable fin despite super careful handling.

Back to the Vagabond, I allowed purchase with the Gening servo package having been advised that the model chosen was far better than sold to me with the Libelle (which were terrible and replaced with Dymond 4.7s after two flights), worst decision possible, they were total rubbish, not even flight worthy, awful centering, awful resolution, and weak. Swapped to Savox, which have been excellent. I would not use Genings on model railway layout scenery let alone flight!

[Piers Bowlan]

I quite like my Libelle as a light wind soarer. Relaxing to fly and will stay up in the lightest lift. Penetrates reasonably well considering it is so light but 12 knots is the max I have flown it in. Not great inverted but a good model to take to the slope for when the wind dies. Stronger than it looks.

I considered getting a Vagabond, quite glad I didn't!

[Andy Meade]

Quite fancy a Vagabond at some point too. Keep it up Sir Garsden

[Dave Bran]

Posted by Dave Wilshere on 02/01/2017 21:46:29:

I've had one in the same scheme as yours for over a year. Some of my friends who got them at the same time did not get on with it...but I think it is misunderstood! Its not really a fly around slope soarer, you will be probably be disappointed if that's your thing. The short small wire joiner should give the clue, its not designed for high G turns, I call it a static aerobatic model, sit in front of you on the slope edge and perform rolls with no forward speed, flips in its own length. I've not tried it in less that 10-12mph winds, wouldn't think its a 'scratcher' As always the slope type and lift will be the decider.

Ensure your choice of elevator servo centres and that the pushrod is not sticky!

I wrote my previous post and then read the above!

SO,

Re: "Its not really a fly around slope soarer".... yes very true, it does not want to fly forward at all, and if I wanted a Helicopter I'd have bought (another) one. It's definitely NOT a "scratcher" and it needs plenty of lift, then performs adequately if not inspiringly. Re: "short small wire joiner", maybe, but its not that small and its got full length rectangular wooden spars of a quite large section, so it should not be floppy or unable to take some wind.

As to Genings:- **LINK**

I rest my case.

Fitted Savox, NO issues at all, centering fine, no glitches, fine resolution, and that with NO other changes.

[Dave Bran]

PS............ Only lack of modelling time has prevented me fitting a motor on the front!

[KiwiKid]

Well I did find some modelling time and grafted a motor on the front. Posted a vid and noticed not long after that Hacker came out with a motorised version of the Vag - LOL. They now have quite a variety of scale models built with the same tech as the Vag that can be flown as gliders or powered. I went with the powered option for the reasons already mentioned and to get more stick time. Here's a short vid of the maiden flights - just tooling around getting a feel for her. I have since got a bit more adventurous and really enjoy flying this model. Great party trick is a powered flat spin.

https://vimeo.com/129950695

 

Edited By KiwiKid on 06/01/2017 12:54:42

[Peter Garsden]

I have to say that after reading all these I am really looking forward to flying this. Ironically I was torn between getting one of these and a Libelle. Only time will tell whether I made the wrong choice. I am not surprised it doesn't penetrate but am surprised it needs 10mph winds. Mind you the instructions say it needs 5metres per second which is 11mph.

Anyway back to the build....I am amazed how easy and quick this is. Real doddle and everything is supplied - unlike my Stormbird which is next which has no instructions at all and some parts you have to supply yourself and it it is 5 times the price

Glad I have gone for the Savox servos - seems the right choice. The Gennings only cost £7.50 each so if you pay diddly squat then that is what you will get.

In this picture you can see the all moving tailplane and the middle bit around which it rotates. It is quite flimsy. I used thin cyano to glue the moving part and it wicked into the bit which were meant to stay dry despite me using vaseline. I had to free it then scrape the glue off and paste it with vaseline again.

You can also see the rudder horn fixing which is a piece of wire held to the carbon rod with shrink tubing and cyano. Very tight and effective, but lightweight. The wire is held in place with a tiny plastic glued washer..

[Peter Garsden]

The rudder is only butt glued onto the fuselage and is not very substantial. I see above that it is vulnerable. I am not surprised.

[Peter Garsden]

Next the wing. Simply a question of cutting back the foam to accomodate the servo, then wrap it in insulation tape and glue it in. The aileron horn is plastic and just glues in a slot. The aileron control rod is very thin wire which sits in the screw fitted adjustable fitted screw tightened horn. I have really struggled fitting the spring washer underneath. I have just discovered that if you push it into thick sheet balsa it works really well.

[Peter Garsden]

You can just see the piece of thread I fed through the wire hole and then the extended servo wire, which worked very well. I glued the thread to the plug with cyano.

In the next photo you can see the huge servo horns which are supplied with the Savox servos. They are intended for closed loop rudder fitting but are the right length for the huge extended servo arms on the Hacker. You are supplied with plastic extensions which you are meant to glue to the existing horns with glue then bind with cotton which amazingly is also supplied. Not necessary as the long horns will suffice on their own.

[onetenor]

To handle small washers and nuts try a bit of blue tack or double sided tape on your finger tip Dab it onto the washer and guide it into place .Try it and see

[Peter Garsden]

Thanks onetenor, but I was talking about fitting the spring washers onto the backs of the screwthreaded attachment to the end of the servo horn that you see above in the photograph. I have now devised the system of attaching the washer over balsa then finishing it off by pressing the top into a vice. Works fine.

Well I have now finished and the Vagabond awaits a maiden flight.

I found that the elevator wouldn't centre properly and thought it was the servo, but it was the carbon rod bending because the horn attached unit was not tight on the spring washer - tightening up as above solved this one.

I have set it up at the aerobatics setting with the CofG at 96mm (recommended 92 - 100mm)  instead of 80mm for the standard version.

I have also coupled the elevator and ailerons as flapperons. Looks like such a lot of movement. It doesn't say but I have dialled in 50% expo as per the recommendation for most 3D models, which is what it is.

Oddly the brakes are flaps down and elevator down, which seems bizarre. From all accounts it doesn't fly very fast anyway so we will see. I have come across both ailerons up to brake but not both down.

I think that what I need is a breezy dune site, which is where these types of plane seem to fly.

I was surprised that with the battery as far back as I could put it, I still needed some weight in the tail.

I have been amazed on how easy this plane was to put together, and how little construction there is. I have also been pleased how many bits are included in the kit. I fear however that it is a bit flimsy for a slope soarer. I am somewhat bemused by the piece of wire which goes through the wing to hold both halves together. I suppose that only flights will tell. Weather will depend on plans this weekend.

 

Edited By Peter Garsden on 09/01/2017 22:28:30

Edited By Peter Garsden on 09/01/2017 22:36:56

[Bill_B]

 

Hi Peter, don't worry about the wire retainer as its only there to stop the wings sliding off the wing joiner, not that they would on mine as they're a snug fit.

Due to the alleged weakness of the canopy I decided to fit a magnetic switch (T9 HobbySport) to avoid repeatedly taking the canopy on and off and thus eventually splitting the thin vac formed moulding.

Also, I've simply secured my battery with a cable tie until such time as the CG is optimised and then I'll install it similar to yours. The small lump of lead is also a temporary addition for fine tuning, if required.

 

 

Magnetic switch is minuscule!

Edited By Bill_B on 10/01/2017 17:02:42