Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 18, 2017 Author Share Posted December 18, 2017 Set about putting some rubber edging (my idea) in the U/C collars just to soften any impact. Clipped edges and cyanoed the strip on. Next threaded them on to the U/C legs. Loose fitted ready for clear silicone sealant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 18, 2017 Author Share Posted December 18, 2017 Added the spats' fairings as once the wheels/axles are on this won't be an option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 18, 2017 Author Share Posted December 18, 2017 Now comes problem one. The wheel axle nuts are too big for the cut out in the spats making it impossible to fit. Out came my trusty Dremel for some carving to size. Second problem. The axles are too long for the spats. So i had to drill a hole in each of the spats to accommodate them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 18, 2017 Author Share Posted December 18, 2017 That all done collars and fairing are glued with clear silicone sealant to finish the job off, including blue threadlock on all grub screws and bolts. Well i can't believe that took me all afternoon. Hopefully tomorrow I will drill out the propellor hub to fit the motor. If my prop drill guide doesn't have the right bolt pattern I will have to use the pre-drilled prop mounting plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 Good progress. You'll have nothing to work on over winter at this rate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 18, 2017 Author Share Posted December 18, 2017 I am sure I will find something to do, Gary. Got a list of little non-urgent jobs requiring attention. Keep me out of the pubs anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 Santas not been yet Gary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 20, 2017 Author Share Posted December 20, 2017 On the the prop driver. The prop driver shaft is a large 10 mm diameter and so I have to drill out on the drill press to allow it to fit. Next I taped around the prop shaft to stop the driver plate from slopping about before I marked the bolt holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 20, 2017 Author Share Posted December 20, 2017 Two holes drilled out and bolts test fitted. I had a an issue when I noticed that the 45mm in length M5 bolts supplied with the motor were a tad too long for the depth of the propellor hub. So I had to search for some 40mm M5 bolts and duly fitted them. All done and dusted. Probably won't fit a spinner and just leave it as it is mainly because one was not supplied with the kit despite what the manual says. That said the jury's out on that decision. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 20, 2017 Author Share Posted December 20, 2017 Next on to the CoG. The manual states anywhere between 127mm and 148mm or 5.0-5.8" . I decided to set initially at 138mm which is right in front of the wing joiner tube. I made a couple of CoG buddies with plywood and here is where the lipos need to be. Right near the front. That's a bit of a surprise, as in the beginning of the youtube clip at the start of this thread, the guy's batteries are right up against the wing tube. All I can say what ever motor he used it must be a lot heavier that the Dualsky one I am using. Plus the fact the lipos I have, weigh 793g each where most other 5000 mAh 6S jobs I have looked at are nearer 750g in weight. The separate RX battery will sit right under the wing joining tube so shouldn't affect anything as it is so near the CoG mid point. Anyway got to put my thinking cap on how to make a sliding battery tray as where the lipos sit partially under the cowl is not the easiest place to secure and remove. Also I need some flexibility incase I need to move the batteries further back after test flights. Nothing too problematic, but this is taking longer than I thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 Quite a productive if time consuming afternoon in the work shop. Decided to set about making a slide-in & slide-out battery tray. Used some liteply and hard balsa strips for the runners. I also drilled some lightening holes before fitting the velcro strips. The only thing I haven't decided on is how to secure the tray in flight from sliding backwards. I'll sleep on that one and hope I have some inspiration. That's how it will look when finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 I also took the opportunity to tidy up the wiring from the ESC by using some grommets that were, surprisingly, supplied with the kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 I made a small tray for the RX battery which will see the the battery secured with a couple of bits of velcro. The location is just behind the wing joining spar, hopefully to counteract the extra weight forward caused by the ply tray. I will recheck the CoG when all finished, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 As an information exercise I decided to weigh the electric setup compared to say what would be a typical 60cc gasser option. The Dualsky motor plus ESC add up to 1205g or 2lb 10 1/2 oz. Using say on OS 60 GT plus ignition unit would add up to (1400g engine and 105g ignition unit = 1505g) 3lb 5oz and that's before any muffler/canister option is decided on. So given the Corvus is principally designed as a 60cc I/C plane which can be converted for electric flight I suppose I shouldn't be surprised that the Lipos need to be pushed forward in the fuselage. Anyway next job is to tidy up the wiring and re-solder the Lipo connectors so more fun to be had there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 22, 2017 Author Share Posted December 22, 2017 Next job was to tidy up the wiring and site the RX and finalise the switch position for the RX battery. Next I decided to test the motor by using a couple of used 6S Lipos wired in series. All went well and the motor was running in the correct sense too. While I was at it I set the throttle signal range as per the ESC instructions. As the ESC is an OPTO version all three wires on the throttle plug into the RX need to be used. The oddity with Futaba TX is that before you start, the throttle channel has to be reversed always from normal otherwise the stick movement will be in the wrong sense. Tidied up the motor/ESC wiring next and replaced the cowl back on the airframe. Blue thread locked all the remaining nuts & bolts. Lastly, and I didn't start it today, is to change the XT60 connectors to EC5s on the Lipos. I am a bit cautious about this and is the subject of a separate thread for all you experts to explain the best way to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 23, 2017 Author Share Posted December 23, 2017 I am happy to have gone through the process of fitting new EC5 connectors which was straight forward after all. Just had to make sure I had all the right equipment to hand including a nice hot iron. Fitted both lipo batteries back in the plane, in series, for a test fire up and I am glad to report everything functioned as it should. the only thing left before test flying is to scratch my head for a fail safe way of securing the battery tray, but still be able to remove it to fit the batteries. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 Posted by Adrian Smith 1 on 23/12/2017 13:24:12: Fitted both lipo batteries back in the plane, in series, for a test fire up and I am glad to report everything functioned as it should. the only thing left before test flying is to scratch my head for a fail safe way of securing the battery tray, but still be able to remove it to fit the batteries. Any ideas? Couple of CANOPY LATCHES? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 23, 2017 Author Share Posted December 23, 2017 I think you might have something there, Gary. Cheers. I'll see how I can adapt a couple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 23, 2017 Author Share Posted December 23, 2017 Ordered from Pegasus Models Norwich, not too far away for me. Brilliant thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 On a sliding battery tray I just use a screw (or 2). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 24, 2017 Author Share Posted December 24, 2017 I did think about that Ron, but eventually after screwing/unscrewing them the holes would loosen, so I opted to just pull a couple of springs every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 24, 2017 Author Share Posted December 24, 2017 **LINK** These bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted December 24, 2017 Share Posted December 24, 2017 I must admit that after applying CA to the holes to harden them (I usually apply CA before I screw the screws in first time and once again after, just to harden the 'threads' the fixing stays firm. An alternative would be some small T nuts and then use bolts. Edited By Ron Gray on 24/12/2017 11:31:18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted December 26, 2017 Share Posted December 26, 2017 For simplicity I had the same thought as Bob, T nuts and small bolts. Btw Adrian, where do you source your servo extension cable and parts? I may need to make my own for my Sbach. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted December 26, 2017 Share Posted December 26, 2017 No worries, I used 4 Max and servoshop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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