Plummet Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 On a whim I am now the owner of a FliteTest kit (From Leeds Model Shop.) **LINK** It is the Mini-Sportster. It is a "different" construction method. The parts are mostly pieces cut from foam filled card. It looks like depron sheet covered in brown paper. It looks as if they are being sold via Graupner. Does anyone have any experience with these. The kits have no manual, but a video build is available on the web. The only glue used on the viseo is hot-glue. My experience of using hot-glue is that it works quite well at gluing things, but not necessarily the things that were meant to be glued. I seem to end up with glue strings decorating the workplace. With large joins, I find that the glue may well have gone cold before I am ready to commit the joint. Would PVA or Aliphatic glue be suitable? Any hints? Plummet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Lee Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 I've a Mini-Sportster sat on my desk next to the computer. When visiting an old Club-mate in Canada a couple of years ago I helped him assemble one of the FliteTest models in his den. He had the instructional video (specific videos are available for all the models) on an iPad next to the bench & we paused and ran it forward & backwards as we assembled the model, which only took an hour or two. At the local fly-in the following weekend I won a Mini-Sportster in a raffle and I followed the same procedure when I brought it home. The FliteTest models are very popular over the Pond and are well proven, as is the recommended hot glue assembly. I'd recommend that you just follow the video, no need for any modifications or alternates, perhaps just practice a bit on some scraps of the foam board to get proficient with the hot glue technique. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 Hot glue is very heavy Plummet, but quick Aliphatic and PVA will need drying time of course, and bracing/pinning will be necessary Cyano is quick but should be done in good ventilation, and is more brittle than the other glues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 If am allowed a 2 € cent? I'll second Dennis with hot glue not only being heavy but it's a very 'poor sticking method' as well. But then the FliteTest boys are in love with it as it is 'quick' and their foamies are supposed to be 'consumables' anyway. Cyano is quite 'poor' on foam as well as it becomes too 'hard'. As quoted, Aliphatic (PVA) is better but takes a longer time to set hence the pinning needed. You could use Superphatic (by Deluxe) which is what I would do; it needs some setting time as well but a lot less than PVA. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plummet Posted November 14, 2017 Author Share Posted November 14, 2017 Ta folks, I now have an offcut glued and setting to see how it sets. Plummet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan H Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 A friend of mine has a lot of experience of FliteTest models having made two, the Kraken and the flying boat. He made both exactly as recommended and they have had many flights and a few mishaps and are still going strong. My recommendation is to make them exactly as per the videos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 My favourite is uhu por Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy G. Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 I've built several foamboard models, although not flite test ones, but have learnt a lot from their videos. One of the main points is that you really need a BIG hot glue gun, particularly for the bigger joints otherwise it's set at one end before you finish applying the glue. How to avoid the dreaded glue strings? Well that's a nack I haven't acquired yet! One thing I have learnt is........ Don't smooth the glue joints down with your finger, it HURTS!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Lee Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 Well I used a small, 25 year old, Bostik 13watt glue gun with no trouble on the Mini-Sportster! Mark in Canada used one of the HobbyKing guns that plug into a 3S LiPo which again was entirely adequate. Just use a small off-cut of foam board where you need to smooth the joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy48 Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 My glue gun is pretty useless. I suspect the problem is the wattage and the temperature it reaches. There will be less stringing the hotter the gun gets.It also leaks constantly. Edited By Andy48 on 15/11/2017 18:40:18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Lee Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 It may be pertinent that the Bostik & HobbyKing Glue guns both use 7mm diameter glue sticks as opposed to 11mm often used in other makes. The smaller diameter requires less heat to melt (it has just over a third of the cross sectional area) & I would guess reaches a more even temperature than the thick ones & would therefore be less likely to string. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plummet Posted November 16, 2017 Author Share Posted November 16, 2017 Well, I have tried a couple of joints with scrap material, one with PVA and one with aliphatic. Testing both I think that the aliphatic is the better, but both do not stick well to the waterproofed paper on the board. Reading up about it I note that they recommend lightly sanding the paper before painting. I will try again, doing this, when I have free time. Plummet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Blakeborough Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 My effort... Glue gun and Por... Acrylic spray paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wills 2 Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 I have built the Mustang, Storch, Racer, Viggen and Spitfire. From plans and using the heavier backed foam board available over here. All fly extremely well, the Mustang being my favourite. In my opinion the heavier board makes them fly better, and so does the extra weight from the many repairs I have done, and the Mustang cost me less than £60, painted and inc all electronics, has now been around for 3 years and a few hundred flights. I love it. I use a Bosch glue gun which gets HOT. Makes it much easier. I have also found that there seems to be 2 tyrpes of glue stick. The common milky white which tends to be pretty hard, and the almost clear more rubbery colour which are more rubbery and make far better joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plummet Posted December 3, 2017 Author Share Posted December 3, 2017 Well, I have made some progress. I decided to try to use hot glue for the assembly. I got myself a new and I think, more powerful glue gun. My major observation is that our climate here must be a lot colder than the climate wherever the Flite Test folk do their video recording. Their instructions for kit assembly are all on video, and watching them glue joints suggests that you have plenty of time to make the joint, where I have found that you have to be a bit speedy. The videos show assembly of white foam-card models. The kits now are made from brown waterproofed foam card. I am now wondering how to go about decorating it. I suspect that I should start with an overall coat of white paint. any suggestions or hints would be welcome. I do not want to add too much weight! Plummet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy48 Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 Check out the Flite Test video painting water resistant foam board: **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plummet Posted December 3, 2017 Author Share Posted December 3, 2017 Thanks... I had searched their site but they have a haystack of videos and ... Plummit Edited By Plummet on 03/12/2017 21:39:01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetenor Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 Have you tried Gorrilla Glue ? Use on slightly damp surfaces sticks like toffee to an army blanket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetenor Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 Re the glue cooling in the joint .Hold the parts in place tilted to one side to allow tip of the nozzle into the gap Squeeze the glue into gap as you run the nozzle along the joint then press the parts together and hold while the glue sets.Run a small spoon or tube along the excess glue .Works better if hot. Re the leaking pull the glue stick back a little .That will ease or stop it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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