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Finally started a Chiltern Models 72 inch Hawker Sea Fury with fibreglass fuselage and wondering if anyone else has done this kit. My main query is the retracts which have a pre cut slot in the foam wing and are angled forward approx. 15 degrees so would have to turn the same when down. Anyone come across this previously? I know its an old one but looks good and have got a nice 30cc engine to stick in it.

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This is very common on aircraft with retracts.

You need to install the retract units in the wing so that the wheel axles run straight ahead when down. This may mean that you need to install the retract unit in the wing at an angle. See the sheet below that Unitracts International used to supply with their units that explain it very clearly:

2018-10-09_123145_2010-01-06_143314_pintle1_large.jpg

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Yes Alan is right - that is the way you solve this problem.

I have just completed a BlackHorse 20cc Sea Fury (66" wing span). I don't know if you have already selected retract units if not you could take a look at these which I used.

If it would help I could take some pictures of the Seafury U/C retracted - you could possibly get an estimate of the angle off that? Let me know if you want them.

BEB

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BEB I don't know how "scale" the BH Sea Fury retract installation is meant to be? I know the Chiltern Models kit and although you are left to figure out a lot of the installation details yourself, it is possible to end up with a very "scale" (angles, rake etc) result, it just depends on how much work you want to give yourself.

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Thank you all, the only way I can see forward is to cut more out of the centre wing section so the wheels will sit further in at an angle, wheel size is 4.5 inches so quite large. Because the wing is pre cut at approx. 15 degrees and raked forward it is not an easy solution. The plan states the prototype used a set from Unitract International but no other details, I have contacted them but not had a reply as yet and also used their tail retract unit. I have kept your drawing Alan for future reference if that's ok. and will persevere to find the perfect solution.

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Colin - cutting more out from the centre section is exactly what you need to do.

The way the centre section is designed on the kit is to allow the ply retract plate to sit flat in the foam wing as you know, this would allow a non-scale retract installation which is simple.

The Unitracts retracts aren't listed on their site anymore. they used to be sold as a set for the Ian Bailey Hawker Tempest, but the retracts themselves were simply their standard "medium" sized air units with a pair of scale-parallelogram action oleo legs and the retract angle set to 96 degrees (I think).

The tailwheel retract was a mechanical unit and this was also designed o fit the Ian Bailey Tempest. You could always build a 2-seat T.Mk20 which had a non-retracting tailwheel. It would save an awful lot of weight down at the tail end of the model.

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Had a chiltern sea fury last century still hanging in the shed, contacted them back then re depth of wheel wells as had a job getting the wheels in. He replied that the prototype was actually deepened all the way back to the top veneer then glassed to strengthen.

Never got round to flying it as was never confident on the CofG

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  • 2 years later...

Ive got one too . my wing is glassed but thats all . The rest is as I got it . 

I ve got the electric screw jacks UC which I presume is unitracts . Very nicely made and look bullet proof . Its a cool looking plane . I'm thinning the squadron though so will be putting it on BMFA soon . Shame really . I just dont really fly the bigger stuff .

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks Alan Gorham for this,

they would be appreciated. 
the plan shows the wing on one sheet but the other sheet shows the fuselage in the foam veneered with spruce crutch build so it’s a bit of guess work where the included formers fit in the fuz. 
also I was thinking of glass cloth and epoxy resin for the wings, because the wing joints are out from the centre, would I need to fit a bandage around the two joints or a 2” wide strip of the covering glass cloth under the final layer and resin the both together ?

A thick bandage will stick out like a sore thumb!!!!

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Ah - apologies - My two kits are the epoxy glass fuselage so naturally there is less building involved with these...

I still don't recall there being any useful info on building the wings and tail though.

 

I would never use a glass bandage on a polyhedral break like the Sea Fury wing. Nor would I use a 2" wide strip of glass. Its better to use several layers of glass that area much broader than 2" across the joint but make each layer slightly narrower to taper the loads. I used to have a diagram that shows it nicely. I will see if I can dig it out.

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Hi Alan,

thanks, that would be useful. 
Mine is the fibreglass fuselage but the plan is for the foam veneered option but I have never heard of anyone having this type of construction on the chiltern sea fury. 
So it’s a bit of matching the formers to the inside profile. 

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Neil

Have sent a zipped file of the instructions in your messages . Can send individual jpegs if required.

When building the fusalage  I did have to use a couple of balsa former packers to make up for short length on those supplied.

Alanp

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  • 3 weeks later...

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