fly boy3 Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 My current build asks for laminated wing tips. 1/16x1/4 inch. Also a small part of rudder and horizontal tail tips. Do I need to build balsa formers , steam individual parts then pin to former ,wait to dry then go on to the next one ? It seems to me a long way of doing this when I can cut said parts from solid balsa. Thanks ps cannot find any thing on utube re this subject Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 FB, laminating strips imparts huge strength increases on relatively small sections And obviously, you can easily form and bend thin strips A laminate of your 1/16 sheet is more than double the strength of one 1/8 sheet by 1/4 It is a slower process than chucking sheet in, but laminating produces very strong correctly shaped members. The only short cut would be band sawing 1/8 or 3/16 ply radii, for the tips But is hugely wasteful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 I love doing laminates, there is no one way, sometimes you can just pin and form them, other times you'll need a template, stronger n lighter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted October 8, 2018 Author Share Posted October 8, 2018 Thanks both. So it's all about strength. Now I can see why the designer has done this and he s right too lol. Tite bond it is then. Lanzo record breaker now you are talking. Awesome model Cheers. Ps great pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 I like to to add a lamination of 1/64"ply. usually the innermost lamination Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bert Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 If it’s any help I use correx plastic sheet for formers, It’s cheap, especially if you can recycle estate agents signs. Bert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted October 8, 2018 Author Share Posted October 8, 2018 Thanks all for your input. Will give it a try, Im in no race lol. I also like to build true to plan if I can and I love a challenge. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 I like adding inside the ribs, makes a strong job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Stainforth Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 Laminated wingtips are vastly superior to those cut from sheet. They are quite easy to do. No steaming required, just wet strips of 1/16th sheet one at a time and glue them to the rest with aliphatic resin. Of course, you need some kind of shape jig. The strength to weight ratio of laminated wingtips is astounding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 On my indoor or lightweight models I add a lamination of 0.006" unidirectional carbon, the next to inner lamination. I use cardboard templates edge wrapped with cling film as suggested above. I tend to soak in luke warm water for about 30 minutes then draw the wood through my fingers to squeeze out excess water, I use PVA as an adhesive - lots of it but as its damp it just tend to run away (epoxy o the carbon layer). You need to pull the laminations very tight. I use pins in balsa blocks to hold the laminations in. When dry - usually within 12 hours in a shed environment, I then run a few drops of cyano into the seams before I remove the laminate assembly. This hardens the wood quite nicely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted October 9, 2018 Author Share Posted October 9, 2018 Could be a silly question, but when I make a template do I use the inner or outer radius of wing tip ? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 fb, inner radius Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted October 9, 2018 Author Share Posted October 9, 2018 Thanks Nigel, that makes sense. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 Posted by David Mellor on 09/10/2018 09:37:27: Posted by john stones 1 on 08/10/2018 22:41:33: I like adding inside the ribs, makes a strong job. John, that sounds interesting - how do you do that? Fit cut inner laminates once the ribs are fitted, and fit in between ribs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuphedd Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 I too like laminated "stuff", Just finished a Great Lakes where all the curved flying bits were laminated instead of the sheet stuff supplied I use obeche, the stuff you used to cover foam wings with , and like most people "above " I wet them , bend them round a multipin "template and let them dry , then alifatic then all together , I use alifatic as its a lot easier to sand than PVA, The results are usually bullet proof , I also use the same principle to make skiis for my winter planes !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mowerman Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 Formers for laminating can be from - depron, hardboard, balsa(scrap bits), cardboard, or just lots of pins. Clingfilm between formers and laminations to stop the balsa strips sticking to the former. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted October 9, 2018 Author Share Posted October 9, 2018 Hi all, if the shape is irregular (part of rudder is quite tapered). You laminate to the thickest part then cut or sand to required shape ? I am told Aliphatic sands better. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 Posted by fly boy3 on 09/10/2018 13:18:22: Hi all, if the shape is irregular (part of rudder is quite tapered). You laminate to the thickest part then cut or sand to required shape ? I am told Aliphatic sands better. Cheers Yes, that is correct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 John, Posted by David Mellor on 09/10/2018 09:37:27: Posted by john stones 1 on 08/10/2018 22:41:33: I like adding inside the ribs, makes a strong job. John, that sounds interesting - how do you do that? Fit cut inner laminates once the ribs are fitted, and fit in between ribs. Sorry I can't visualize what you are doing? Could you expand please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 Looks same as notched spar, but you add a laminate inside, between the ribs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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