Don Fry Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 Another possibility is the acid catalysed finishes used in the furniture industry. Tuffcote used to be one of these, at at very high price because it was sold to us. I've never used them, but I can't see any reason why any fuel we use will attack them. And are much cheaper, so wastage is not too much of an issue. LAS Aerospace do a glue for ceconite, it's like clearcote, but thicker, used wet. Not used it myself, but I have an acquired part built airframe covered with ceconite and glue, and the covering is certainly there to stay PS, Diesel motors smell fine, before or after. Glow engines stink, before and after, but are so simple to use. Jury is out on petrol, very complicated things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 I have been using polyester dress lining ( about £2 /running meter either 1 or 1.5 M wide.) using Impex Hi tack glue as an alternative to balsaloc. Comes in £3 handy squeeze bottle with a thin spout. Apply a thin trail and smooth flat with fingers and let dry. position lining over and use covering iron to activate glue, stretching at same time. Not as easy as solartex but miles cheaper and plenty of colours/designs from dress material shops. google impex hi tack for online availabilty but may also be available at local dress materials shops. Finished with 2/3 coats 50/50 dope/thinners for electric models - glows need fuel proofing. Depending on size of model I have also used doped chiffon over mylar - both applied with impex, giving a very light but strong almost translucent covering for vintage look. The mylar reduces the amount of dope needed and also provides an airtight covering. See my 72" span Vagabond as an example John https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=957ylA8daZU Edited By John Laird on 17/11/2018 18:08:53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 John, the gold original IMPEX, or the silver thinner version. Seems to be two products. And what's it like, water based or petroleum smelly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edgeflyer Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 I've had some success colouring silk before covering using dylon. I also found you can add small amounts of artists oil paint to colour dope. Experiment with small quantities first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronaldo Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 Not sure if this is the IMPEX type glue mentioned earlier, but here's a link to a Fast Tack glue I was sent. Not used it myself, but I'm told it's good for gluing on covering materials. **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 As I recall, sand the doped edges off, dope the fuzz fibres down, and sand off. The last sand is done with 800 grade paper. My memories are as distant as Percy's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 If the fibres are pulling away, unravels, raises from the surface, it's indicating that what you are using as a dope, whether water based, or otherwise, just is not an effective glue, and is allowing the fibres to escape, move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 Posted by supertigrefan on 17/11/2018 18:21:00: I've just covered a trainer in nylon and water based varnish, it's the first time I've used nylon and would like to do so again. I'm interested in how you get a sharp finish at the cut edges? I have 'furry' edges which I have improved with a film iron. In ye olde days I used to run some un-thinned dope along the furry edges, leave it to harden - 24 hours at least- then sand it off with fresh medium to fine wet & dry paper (used dry) on a sanding block. I think the same method should work OK with WBV but it wold probably need about double the time to harden before sanding. I've now done some covering with tissue over laminating film using both dope & WBV. I used tissue because I wanted to retain the vintage appearance & laminating film to make it puncture proof over the open structure. One of the advantages is that, because of the underlying film, the tissue doesn't need as much dope (or varnish) for a satisfactory finish. At some time in the near future I intend re-building a very old 6ft+ span vintage model I was given. It will be covered first with laminating film then probably with nylon. I expect that, as it did with tissue, the film will reduce the amount of dope required. Edited By PatMc on 17/11/2018 22:13:33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edgeflyer Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 Good tip about dressmaker glue. Ordered from amazon, about half price of "Covergrip". I have used pva in the past it is only moderately heat sensitive compared with specialist product. Thinned contact adhesive also works to a degree but Orastick is better for plastic film overlaps. It's a little too grippy for framework prep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan p Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 Simple question does oratex need a separate application of adhesive to the airframe, or is it already coated to the covering and just needs heat activation. Missing solartex already Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stearman65 Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 Posted by alan p on 17/11/2018 23:08:14: Simple question does oratex need a separate application of adhesive to the airframe, or is it already coated to the covering and just needs heat activation. Missing solartex already Simple answer, no it is practically identical to Solartex apart from the price. **LINK** https://www.oracover.de/?fbclid=IwAR2aeqptw_9pT6-2lixzBDRgUbcW1G6ab1ztvlGH2Nr1z_XRSJ5Mm4QdvmE Edited By Stearman65 on 18/11/2018 07:45:30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edgeflyer Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 Having stripped off the old tissue covering and rebuilt wing tips I used pale yellow Dylan on parachute silk for the main covering, doped on. With hindsight I should have used heat sensitive glue on the undercambered side as shrinking kept pulling this away. Coloured decor is red dyed silk. Darker band is by adding red oil paint to dope, then doping silk onto glass sheet, then slicing a strip with scalpel and straight edge, before applying to surface with more dope. Patient work but so much more satisfying than plastic alternatives and it's light and translucent. Fuselage treated likewise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 Posted by Don Fry on 17/11/2018 18:42:23: John, the gold original IMPEX, or the silver thinner version. Seems to be two products. And what's it like, water based or petroleum smelly? Don, I use the gold original - not tried the thinner version. No smell. Ronaldo that looks like its the same but the impex has a convenient spout for controlling the amount used Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronaldo Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 Ok John, will take a look at Impex also. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stearman65 Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Is this the new Solartex, it is for me if she does my model??? **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Yes, very nice. Calling David Mellor, (font of such knowledge), this laminating film, tissue system. How does the weight compare to Solartex? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon Whitehead 1 Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Looking on Ebay, laminating film comes in many different thicknesses, widths and lengths, and a roll can cost quite a lot, even if it's cheap per sq yard. What's a good thickness and width to buy for starters? Is the dope used non-shrinking, or shrinking, and where can it be bought by the gallon? I've had cellulose thinners from Ebay before, in fact cellulose is my favourite paint. (EDIT - sorry, I didn't see the pic on the previous post!) Does the dope adhere completely to the laminating film or does it peel off under some circumstances? Presumably the laminating film's adhesive is heat-activated like that of the modelling films. Can it be made to pull round compound curves, eg a rounded block balsa wing tip, with heat without wrinkling, and then does the overlap adhere well enough so that it doesn't peel off later? Obviously there's a technique to be learned and I'm wondering if there's a thread or blog somewhere with useful hints. Kind regards Gordon Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 21/11/2018 17:32:28 Edit no 2. It's probably worth using aircraft cellulose as it'll be plasticised. I've found that coloured car celluose can craze when used on, say, solartex and make your model look very aged! Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 21/11/2018 17:38:08 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon Whitehead 1 Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Thanks Dave, I have a good root around on RCG! Gordon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Cheers Dave, not a system for me, with a fuelproofer on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.