SONNY MONKS Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 It makes an excellent filler,if any of you havent tried it yet gents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gangster Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 I have used it but not sure how well it sands. I have also used wood dust and cyano this works well but can be very hard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SONNY MONKS Posted January 24, 2019 Author Share Posted January 24, 2019 Hi Percy,Ive never used the aliphatic pva,whats the difference with white pva? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SONNY MONKS Posted January 24, 2019 Author Share Posted January 24, 2019 okay thankyou. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyinBrian Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 As an aside small dings and dents in balsa can be filled by sanding with fine sane paper around the area then apply a drop of cyano to the ding and sand again making sure you get the sanding dust into the ding, it may need a couple of goes but the result is almost invisible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SONNY MONKS Posted January 24, 2019 Author Share Posted January 24, 2019 i was looking at titebond percy,seems a good popular brand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 Posted by FlyinBrian on 24/01/2019 18:17:50: As an aside small dings and dents in balsa can be filled by sanding with fine sane paper around the area then apply a drop of cyano to the ding and sand again making sure you get the sanding dust into the ding, it may need a couple of goes but the result is almost invisible. Soak the affected area in water, use your covering iron up high or your heat gun and the dent will magically disappear, as long as the grain isn't torn. I use this method on dents in my gun butts and thought if it'll work on walnut should work on balsa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben B Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 Cyano and sodium bicarb makes a rock hard filler. Strong but a pain to sand. Very exothermic reaction also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetenor Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 Water and heat also works on wooden baseball bats. Damp cloth a hot poker in my case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stearman65 Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 Back in the day, I used talcum powder mixed with clear dope, then the wife complained I smelled like a knocking shop & reverted to powdered french chalk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SONNY MONKS Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 hahahahahaha i like that comment stearman. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Ross 1 Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 Posted by onetenor on 25/01/2019 00:41:37: Water and heat also works on wooden baseball bats. Damp cloth a hot poker in my case. Hot water (near boiling) also works well on foamies, really good at straightening a bent nose after an unexpected arrival. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 Laminating resin and lots of microballoons, if you mix it thick enough it still sticks like wotsit to a blanket but also sands nicely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Collinson Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 Best by far without resorting to the alchemy suggested above is Pollyfilla Advanced. It comes pre-mixed, tube or tub, it fills and smooths very well, has far less tendency to lift off than specialist lightweight fillers, dries quickly and sands easily (often not needed because it smooths so well) and it's cheap. BTC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 Posted by Bruce Collinson on 25/01/2019 13:26:18: Best by far without resorting to the alchemy suggested above is Pollyfilla Advanced. It comes pre-mixed, tube or tub, it fills and smooths very well, has far less tendency to lift off than specialist lightweight fillers, dries quickly and sands easily (often not needed because it smooths so well) and it's cheap. BTC And after a light sanding a coat of non shrinking dope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handyman Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 Posted by Percy Verance on 24/01/2019 19:48:27: It is Sonny. I've used Titebond for a decade or two now. There is also a waterproof version, which I'm told is a favourite of model boat builders.......... Hi Percy, I think that you are referring to Cascamite. I have been using it for years. Mix it with water and when it dries it becomes waterproof. I purchased a new tub only recently. Worth trying!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 When it comes to filling cracks etc that can't be ironed out as I previously observed, I just use ordinary plaster or fine filler, I know it's much heavier than the Lite version it's also significantly cheaper, sands easy and really sticks well. I don't use much of it and on my usual 4 - 5 pounds in weight models the amount is insignificant. Obviously on a small, rubber powered model it's not especially good unless needed up front as ballast. So, no I don't clart around with sawdust and pva. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 26, 2019 Share Posted January 26, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Dyke Posted January 27, 2019 Share Posted January 27, 2019 My choice is indoor Polyfilla mixed with a little PVA. Works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted January 27, 2019 Share Posted January 27, 2019 Years ago model shops sold a polyester paste mix from Germany to which you then added a tiny spot of hardener. Carving/sanding time depended on the mix but was very short. This disappeared from the market long ago but I realised that it can be made with no more than Bucks Composites light weight fairing compound combined with Halfords polyester resin. It sticks to balsa well, is very light and as long as it is thick enough sands much the same as balsa. Very cheap to boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.