Chris Walby Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 Hi RG, I am with you and will get some 1.5 mm and 2 mm for the respective areas. I spotted the snakes go through the rear fuselage sheets so I'll have to move them about to get them into the right place before anymore sheeting. I have reread the article and its a bit confusing so I am going with pinning the wings down the right way up with wingtip blocks + the washout ones and sheet the top surface. Not sure if or how much I need to sheet the underside as I can't find a photo for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low pass Pete Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 Chris if you look at the plan area that shows a cross section of the wing it shows 1.5mm sheeting all round the wing but also note that the upperview of the wing shows a fairly typical sheeted front and rear area and therefore the ribs would have cap strips about 1/4 in or so. The sheeted areas (inboard and outboard)have circular finish. Also you need webs between each rib from top spar to lower spars. I also have had no 1.5mm in my wood pack and will have to purchase that. I am not impressed with the wood pack as it is no where near complete and requires much stripping for 1/4 X 1/2 for the rear tails etc. The pre-cut parts have been generally ok ish but the cores for the elevators were too wide by 1/2 in and I have simply trimmed these to suit the plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramblin gruntfuttock Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 I am still waiting for some wood that is out of stock. I believe it is the leading edge but not sure if this is all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted March 26, 2019 Author Share Posted March 26, 2019 Doh, Just realised that I have mounted the elevator and rudder servos upside down + aligned the snakes to suit. Well the Gruffalo is just going to have to sit on the servo arms and lump it! Only ting I noticed is the 3mm lite ply the servos sit in is very flexible + not much "meat" on the front edge so beefing up will be needed. I'll put a false floor/seat for him + it will allow me to adjust the servo arms/clevis with the wing in place! I am working out what needs to be sanded in preparation for sheeting the fuselage and wing Pete, thanks for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted March 26, 2019 Author Share Posted March 26, 2019 Doh, Just realised that I have mounted the elevator and rudder servos upside down + aligned the snakes to suit. Well the Gruffalo is just going to have to sit on the servo arms and lump it! Only ting I noticed is the 3mm lite ply the servos sit in is very flexible + not much "meat" on the front edge so beefing up will be needed. I'll put a false floor/seat for him + it will allow me to adjust the servo arms/clevis with the wing in place! I am working out what needs to be sanded in preparation for sheeting the fuselage and wing Pete, thanks for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low pass Pete Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 Chris please see my reply on the general build ref some of your issues. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 Just an observation but do the tail components come pre-cut? I would always prefer to make the parts that go across the middle (and I'd agree that's the centre line on the plan going by the long-short-long-short dash format) from single pieces and I'd suggest that might have been the designer's intention? There is no edge shown on the plan for the component marked "6mm medium balsa" along that centre line. Although modern glues are pretty strong, it's normally good practice to make scarf joints if load bearing components need to be joined to avoid weakening the components with stress raisers...witness reported tailplane failures on ARTFs where people have scored the wood when cutting through covering along the fuselage line for glueing. Edit: Maybe the trailing edge is one piece? I can't see from the photo but if it is it will certainly improve the situation. Edited By Martin Harris on 27/03/2019 17:02:11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted May 1, 2019 Author Share Posted May 1, 2019 After distracting myself I am now back on the building board, well the Renaissance is and I am making a bit of progress. Horizontal stab remade and upper wings sheeted. All blocked up and the dihedral/washout have stayed put so a result...I might be able to mess that up when I cover them. Before anyone says anything the hoz/vert stab are not fixed..yet I'll follow others an cover it first, then fix in place. Might even be a good idea to cover the fuselage as well then fix them as trying to get an iron around curves will be hell (for me!) I am struggling to see the point of cutting holes in the wings across only some of the ribs...yes do all to save weight, but like 5 bays around the C of G won't change anything will it? Still loads to do like sheeting the underside of the wing and sorting the nose/cowl out, but its coming along. I think I am going for the "Acrowot" U/C fixing type where I use a spacer and Nylon screws should it get lumped down (not me honest, but I don't have a trainer anymore!). Better book the fly-in tickets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony oneill 1 Posted May 2, 2019 Share Posted May 2, 2019 coming along nicely. i am doing the same with the under carriage but i forgot to fit the captive nuts! so will have to look at retro fit somehow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Storey 1 Posted May 2, 2019 Share Posted May 2, 2019 Looking good, Chris. What motor/battery setup have you gone for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted May 2, 2019 Share Posted May 2, 2019 She's looking good Chris "I am struggling to see the point of cutting holes in the wings across only some of the ribs...yes do all to save weight, but like 5 bays around the C of G won't change anything will it?" Ribs are usually a small percentage (about 10%) of overall wing weight, the star player is the sheeting with the co-star role going to any solid lumps like strip ailerons, spars and LE/TE. Cutting a couple of holes in the ribs makes very little difference to anything. Choosing good sheet is the first thing to attend to! In a similar vein, spar webs weigh next to nothing, but stiffen up a wing structure immeasurably. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted May 2, 2019 Author Share Posted May 2, 2019 Nigel, I am using my kit from my BH Speed Air Overlander 900KV 710W 3548/05 3 to 6S 11 x 8 prop 80A ESC, but might prop down as the BH SA was larger. I have some 4S5000 I could use, but if they don't physically fit some 4S3300 instead. Hope that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted May 4, 2019 Author Share Posted May 4, 2019 Wing now fully sheeted and about to be covered! Advice please as to how to deal with the wing tips! I have seen the Solarfilm video on covering, but I can't get my head around the TE bit. Should I cover as is or put a little tapered rib so I can wrap the covering in towards the inside edge (bottom right photo corner? Working on the U/C next and the fuselage unless I have a mad moment, tidy up, Hoover around and get the covering out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted May 4, 2019 Share Posted May 4, 2019 Not being familiar with the model, the picture doesn't make much sense to me - any chance of a photo from a different angle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted May 5, 2019 Share Posted May 5, 2019 Need to provide some shape and structure to get the covering on to. So yes to the tapered rib at TE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted May 5, 2019 Share Posted May 5, 2019 Posted by Martin Harris on 04/05/2019 22:50:42: Not being familiar with the model, the picture doesn't make much sense to me - any chance of a photo from a different angle? After a night's sleep it all looks clearer. Yes, I'd agree with Nigel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven S Posted May 5, 2019 Share Posted May 5, 2019 The wing tip on my Wiggo build didn't turn out to well until I added a small tapered rib near the leading edge. There was already one near the trailing edge. I wouldn't hesitate to add an extra rib or two. This is how it initially looked: Then I added an extra rib It looks much better now Edited By Steven Shaw on 05/05/2019 13:27:52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted July 1, 2019 Author Share Posted July 1, 2019 Advice please as this covering thing is driving me a bit nuts! Watched the Solarfilm video and have had three more goes without success! So looks like I need to add say three more ribs or should I just make a TE & LE block? Or shall I just make the tip out of solid! What's the best way of getting the old HK film glue off the balsa as everything is just getting too sticky! PS am I right in covering the wing tip first and then the wing after that... PPS and advice on the fuselage apart from bottom then sides and finish with top (as such)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted July 2, 2019 Author Share Posted July 2, 2019 Any advice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted July 28, 2019 Author Share Posted July 28, 2019 My pilot is requesting control throws, while I get on with the finishing touches? Have I missed something as I can't see them on the plans, He has the option of low medium and high rates and doesn't mind expo. Plus any ideas as to how to make the wind screen for him (material & how to fit it) cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony oneill 1 Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 Hi Chris, on mine i have about 25mm rudder and elevator but have not measured it. The aelerons are a lot less about 15 mm. The windscreen was cut from a shirt box which is a thin plastic like really thin perspex. I played about with a paper template first then cut the plastic. To fix it i put small screws through the sides then shaped where it touches the fuselage with 3 small screws at an angle and just clipped the plastic behind them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 Hi Chris Yes, I do all 'odd' bits like wingtips first. Yes, I do fuselage bottom, then sides, then top. All after odd bits like around control rod exits... Mind you, im not going to be entering any Concors events with any of mine so others may have better advice GG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted July 31, 2019 Author Share Posted July 31, 2019 Update time as I needed some fresh air and certain things are easier at the field! My set up is 4S5000 and that gets me very close to C of G so looking good as my other option was 4S3300 which I have spare lipos although it would have given me shorter flight times. Weight came out at just over 2.5 Kg and running a 12 x 6 prop pulls 45A and 665W. Power to weight looks like 266 W/Kg or 121 W/lb so I should be pottering around at half throttle with luck. Thanks Tony for the screen advice, worked a treat although my sheet seems very thin so it might not last too long. I'll just keep a lookout for something more suitable. I think many people won't like it, but if it flies well and the Scouts get a laugh, I'll be happy + I need the practice (and a lot more needed) to try out different techniques all be it rather poorly executed PS - Photo pre screen and battery cover Just need to sort throws, do failsafe, range check, get it checked over and it will be ready to go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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