Tim Ballinger Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 Barry, Glad you seem to have sorted your power problem. I assume you are concluding that the original 4S fan was faulty? Interesting that the blades are interchangeable, I had assumed there would have been a pitch change as well as a KV change between the motors but it does not seem so from your comments. Did you measure the max current as an insurance ? Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Buxton Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 TIm, Yes, I'm assuming my original 4S unit had some sort of issue but no idea what, it doesn't look like there's any difference in the blades between the 3S and 4S versions, I'll have to wait for my 3S fan units to arrive to check it properly but the current draw seemed OK, 36A at full power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 Anybody who can tell me why one would glue the formers for the Gnat air intakes (12-14) to the inner fuselage instead of fixing them to the Intakes sides and the triangle lists? The latter would automatically ensure that they all line up. Am I missing something here? Regards, Lucas Edited By Lucas Hofman on 12/04/2020 20:51:41 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i12fly Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 Hi Lucas, I think that the intake formers are fixed to the fus sides so that when you fit the air intakes they line up for the wing position. On my build I fitted the wings in position loosely, then attached the air intakes, which you could do with the formers attached to the intakes. I drilled 2 holes in the sacrificial F12 so that it was easier to remove later. I made the mistake of attaching the intake formers before planing and sanding and main fuselage -and kept knocking them off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Petrie Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 What adhesive did you guys use to attach the intakes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Petrie Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 What adhesive did you guys use to attach the intakes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 I use aliphatic glue for all joints that will be sanded through and PVA (white glue) for the rest. I prefer PVA for general work since it stays "rubbery" and will flex with the structure. But it clogs the sandpaper when you sand it so therefore aliphatic glue is used for the rest. For the gnat that means aliphatic for the triangle list to the balsa. Cheers, Lucas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 hello jack. On my sabre I covered the model then exposed the wood where the scoops were going, and used 5 min epoxy... ken anderson...ne..1..scoop dept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Petrie Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 Thanks guys, I will go ahead with sticking them on tonight. My build is coming along quite well, I've gone for covering the wings/ tail and have fibreglassed the fuselage to paint it as I wouldn't have been able to do a good job covering it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Wood 4 Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 Hi Jack, Thanks for that idea for the fuselage covering, I'd hit the wall with this one ! Will glass my mine now and glue the intakes on, I already have the red paint 😀✈ Regards Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Petrie Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 Hi Ray, Looks like you've done a nice job there already with what you've done! Yes glassing does take time but i always tend to get a fairly nice finish from it, I have covered a couple of fuselages before but i can't get it to look reasonable. Keep posted with your build Looking forward to some level of easing in lockdown so I'll be able to fly it! Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Wood 4 Posted April 26, 2020 Share Posted April 26, 2020 Hi Jack, Yes let's hope we are allowed back out soon, there is nothing more motivating to make you want to do something than being told you can't do it 😀 The sky will go dark from the number of RC aeroplanes being tested. I'm using water based resin with my glass cloth, I find it easier & cheaper. Regards Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Petrie Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 How are your builds coming along? I've nearly finished painting and finishing up now. Couple of questions for you guys who have completed the Jet Provost, did you extend the ESC motor wires or connection lead to the nose so that you could connect the battery outside of the body? Trying to work out how i can do this as there is no way to connect as is. Also what did you use for pushrods and connectors for the ailerons? I can't seem to order anything that isn't far too heavy duty for this model! Thanks, Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 Simply 2mm threaded rod with similar soldered to the other end and SLEC mini snap on ball joints. I actually use 2mm threaded brass at the cut end, joined with brass tube because I have hundreds of them, but you could always use a Z bend. My wiring is way long enough to connect the battery easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 I choose a lighter solution: 1 (or 0.9) mm steel rod. Z-bend in one end and a quick link at the servo. Horns in 1 mm ply. Have not yet flown the gnat, so we will see if it holds. Lucas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 Question: how does one get film on the canopy, like in the build article of the gnat? Is it film, or is i self adhesive vinyl? If it is film, are there special tricks used to avoid deforming the canopy, which is thermoplast too? It is easier to get the film in place before glueing the canopy on the fuselage? Cheers, Lucas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Ballinger Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 Lucas, I used my iron at 127 deg which is actually the temp I use for tacking the film in place normally . Seems to stay stuck and does not deform the canopy. I use a glove on the iron and do not loiter. Go hotter at your peril ! Personally I glue the canopy in place first, then add the trim. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 Lucas, you are living dangerously with those very nasty screw on connectors. The whole lot cannot really be any lighter than I suggested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 Martin, all Sebart ARF 30 en 50 size planes use this system for all servo to horn connections, usually with a carbon fibre rod. There are many off them, so if this would fail often we would have seen many reports. I have used this sytem on about 6-7 I think, and none has ever loosened up. Often with a clevis glued to a 2mm carbon rod and a quicklink at the servo. But I do use locktite on the set screw. Looking forward to flying the Gnat in about a week or 2. I will let you know how she goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 Thanks tim, I will try on an offcut first. Real soon now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 Time to close the canopy: The advantage of 3D printed pilot is that one easily can scale them down... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 Those connectors were introduced on ARTF`s because they are easy to set up and they assume that the purchaser has no knowledge of anything else which is probably true. I trad modeller would not dream of doing them that way. They may be fine on ultra lightweight electrics but have you ever seen them on a turbine, 100cc 3d or five year build scale project? There is a very good reason for that. However, good luck with your model. It looks like we shall all be test flying them at about the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokenenglish Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 Hi Martin, I've been using the arrangement suggested by Lucas on all my models, on all control surfaces, for the last 3 or 4 years. The models include a Laser 75 Warbird, an IC Acrowot, four different sizes of Wot 4 (one electric and 3 IC), and various medium size vintage models. I haven't yet had a single problem which leads me to ask: Is your opinion just based on "principle" or have you actually had problems? Please don't be offended, I'm just wondering why you're calling "nasty" something that I quite like... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Roberts 9 Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 Hi Lucas, My own Gnat is now getting close to canopy fitting time and so I am particularly interested to see how you get on with yours. From your photo above it looks as though you intend to glue/fix the canopy directly onto the fuselage? I was thinking about doing the same thing but I am not sure how neatly I can do it (and I am fussy about these things!). I am pondering on the idea of making a thin balsa (or foam) 'baseplate' to fit inside the canopy to give it a bit more rigidity. I think I will hold off doing anything and wait to see how you get on! Good luck ! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 I have seen failures of these at my local club, always on beginners` models and thankfully spotted on the ground by their instructor. Screw clamped connectors and i/c motors just do not mix well and their use on any vulnerable models has been banned. As I said above, they were introduced on ARTF`s for ease of set up, but never seen before other than back in the days of single channel when we used electrical terminals to connect the escapement to the rudder operating rod. I have used them myself on indoor models where quick links and ball joints are rare and the loading is negligible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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