Den Moran Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 Hi! My apologies for putting this in this area of the site, but the search engine doesn't have a result for 'waterproof glue'. Can anyone tell me a good glue to use for the lower hull of a water plane, please? Thank you, Den, Swansea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 I put in waterproof wood glue, found some info HERE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levanter Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 Den I have built a number of floats and just use my favourite aliphatic glue which is water resistant when fully cured. As Percy says, covering with glass cloth is a good thing to do and I cover the float completely using epoxy. This gives a tough and totally waterproof coating. Some people can't use epoxy for allergy reasons or prefer other products but the results are more or less the same. I am planning a build of a Bombardier CL-415 water bomber and I am going to glass the whole fuselage with epoxy and then paint. I build models boats and have an RC racing yacht. Water has a habit of finding its way in somehow so it is important to thoroughly drain and dry the interior otherwise it won't necessarily just be the glue that fails. Levanter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 Hi Den, I have built a couple of waterplanes and generally use Cyano but I epoxy/glass the fuselage. If you film cover the flying surfaces make sure the seams are well sealed. If you are sensitive to cyano and decide to use PVA make sure it is waterproof PVA and not just for the 'lower hull' as from my experience water gets in everywhere. I also doped the inside of the fuselage too as it will get wet. Good luck and what are you building? Edited By Piers Bowlan on 07/07/2019 08:40:19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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Levanter Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 That's a good looking boat Percy and some interesting projects in the pipeline. Have you been over to the Model Boats forum. It runs at a snails pace compared to this one but lots of useful knowledge to tap into. Ray Wood has initiated a mini mass build" with HMS Cossack. A famous destroyer with the model designed by Vic Smeed. I am not really into warships but as it will be something completely different for me I am going to give it a go. There are four of us so far. Levanter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 Gorilla (expanding polyurethane) glue. The foaming brown one. Waterproof, and gap sealing. Although, a bit of fine glass woven cloth, 25 gsm weight will finish the bottoms off well. I've always found, the bottoms of floats have a hard life. If you don't want to use epoxy, waterbased acrlic varnish will stick the glass on. It's good enough for this job, you are after abrasion resistance, not mechanical strength. Ronseal do one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Wood 4 Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 Hi Percy, Levanter and I don't fit into set catagories I think we are model makers with multiple interests, flying, floating and running on rails with steam, variety is the spice of life 😀 been doing this for 50 years now. Regards Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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Tim Flyer Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 Nice boat Percy . I really recommend “International Waters” model boat forum too as in the USA model power boating is very popular. Sadly here there are much fewer power boat clubs these days . I find Prestwich Models in the UK a very good source of parts and advice too. I’m a bit of a Hydroplane fan too as I like fast boats . A few years ago I built a JAE21 outrigger 3 point Hydroplane from Zipp Kits in USA . I bought a Novarossi 29 for it from Germany too. It is rather fast (very very fast!) and only turns right but corners hard on its sharp turn fin but still needs a big lake due to its speed ( capable of 75mph plus). I also love driving my 45 powered 1970s cabin cruiser which I converted to surface drive a few years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 I've built the hull for a Thames spritsail barge from plans and some CNC cut parts originally supplied by Traplet (I think now available on Sarik). There is a DVD which describes the construction and the designer recommended Wudcare 5 minute super fast PVA which is D3 waterproof so that's what I used. I think that means it's OK for short term submersion but not for being permanently underwater. I don't think there's much problem for a model boat and certainly not for floats on a model aeroplane. I have, however used glass and epoxy skinning on my hull because, being an aeromodeller, I used balsa for the sheeting mostly because that's what I had in stock. The hull is about 1.2 metres long IIRC (the design is called Veronica) and unfinished as there's a lot of work in the rig (4 sails and 2 masts for one thing plus a sprit and deck fittings). I keep looking at it and feel guilty I've built several aeroplanes since I laid it aside temporarily. It is actually decked now and things like the dummy keel, leeboards and rudder are made. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 8, 2019 Share Posted July 8, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Den Moran Posted July 8, 2019 Author Share Posted July 8, 2019 Thanks for the replies, everyone. I've opted for 'Gorilla Glue', as the aircraft is of a very lightweight depron sheet construction. I won't be able to use even a tisuue covering, but will probably use 'Coverall' as a wrap-around seal for the chine. The boats took me back to my sailing days, both on the Oceans (single-handing), and the European canals - lovely examples shown her as well. So thanks, once again, I'm sure it will be ok with the Gorilla Glue. Den Swansea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted July 8, 2019 Share Posted July 8, 2019 Gorilla glue is very good for any hollow spaces on boats . Cheers Percy I have been looking at that website. On my IC boats I would normally fill them with polyurethane foam. (DIY foam filler used normally to fill door spaces) . As said water gets in or in the case of a crash or rollover it’s important! I paint internal exposed areas with epoxy but in the old days we used polyester resin(smelly!). Boat building is much more DIY than planes with fewer ARTFs. The good thing is that boats last for life and weight far less critical than aircraft so they can be built far more durable. Many /most boaters buy hulls made of glass/epoxy or cheaper polyester then build their own superstructure. Exhaust manifolds are also often DIY although Weston make some nice water cooled manifolds. I really recommend Prestwich models drive hardware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Feather Posted July 8, 2019 Share Posted July 8, 2019 I seem to remember from my very early modelling days (mid 70s) that Cascamite was the glue of choice for building model boats - powder mixed with water to activate it. It's still available.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted July 8, 2019 Share Posted July 8, 2019 Yep, good glue. Perhaps for bigger jobs that we do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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