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SIG Kadet LT-40 Build - My first proper build!


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As you are finding out. Reading ALL the instructrions while studying the plan is essential to understand it all before you start.

I have, in the past had to assist with building a Sig kit by remote control.

I have also had someone building one of my most popular designs.They failed to read the instructions or follow the sequence and made a right dogs dinner of the whole thing. The really irritating thing was they they are a club member. They will NEVER get any help from me in future

Edited By Peter Miller on 20/07/2019 21:08:04

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Thanks for the comments.

Percy - Yep, the ailerons are still to be attached on the trailing edge. The kit comes with the bandage to join the wings.

Peter - It must be painful to watch someone butcher something you have designed. I just need to slow down a little and understand before I glue.

Well so far it has been a mixed bag. I am enjoying the building but making silly mistakes. A few lessons learnt today - and thanks for all of the suggestions. The board is working very well. and the covering is a very thin dust sheet, normally used for covering things while painting. I am cutting strips off it so the multipack will last for the whole build - easily!

Day 1 over and nothing I am aware of has stopped play too much. I am thinking of adding an additional sheet to the top leading edge of each wing. It will help the tape stick when I join the wings.

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Thanks Percy thumbs up

Right wind trimmed and initial sanding completed. The ailerons are fitted after the wings are joined together.

A good clear down. Level check and ready for the left wing.

Left wing started. I have placed the drawing with more space on the wing joining area. When I set the dihedral angle on the right wing the space I had left on the left side was a little tight.

When sanding the completed wing there were a couple of high sports on joins. I have got a couple of the off cuts from the right wing spars.....

.

..and and will use them as top of wing shear depth gauges.

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What Percy was allududing to was, standard practice is dry fit the hinges, ailerons, and get a good fit. Then fix permanently after covering, when you just need to punch a hole, slit the covering to insert the hinges. Word of warning, this last bit will cause confusion if you hadn't made sure you know left aileron from right aileron, and sometimes top face from bottom face. Too easy to mark the wood, and cover the marking, and forget to put, say a bit of masking tape on the covered surface to keep it known.

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Thanks Don. The ailerons are operated by a bent wire that goes through a groove in a yet to be glued piece of wood fitted to the trailing edge. The ailerons themselves have a hole drilled in them to put the end of one end of the wire and are asymmetrical - I believe.

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Thanks Don.

Not being ready for talking about Torque Rods yet wink I did a little more on the left wing.

Only one delivery today; the number 3 handle to go with the number 10 blades I have brought.

I am a lot happier, so far, with this wing build. Using the off cut to gauge the depth SHOULD mean that less sanding flush will be required.

I have a number of items at various stages in the postal system.

Hopefully more tomorrow. Thanks for all of the advice and critique.

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Hi Percy - The torque rods are brass sleeved however, it looks like the end of the rod just goes into a hole drilled into the aileron. No sleeve. Note that the fixed part of the trailing edge needs to be cut for the rod.

If I offer up a servo into the wing, on the premise that I was going to go off piste, it does fit. I would need to get another servo and some other bits but that is no real hardship. Given it's my first build should I just go for the twin servo make it up as you go along? Would I just connect the servos together electrically and have on push and one pull? Y electric cable cable?

 

Edited By Nu Me 1 on 22/07/2019 19:36:37

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If I was you at the bottom of the learning curve and wanting to get a model built, I would just follow the plans regarding aileron actuation. It is a tried and tested solution and the supplied torque rod hardware looks good to me.

The more changes you make, the more things you have to figure out, the greater chance you have of losing motivation and actually finishing the model.

I use a single servo with torque rods wherever possible as it's cheaper, simpler, less to go wrong and many of the benefits that people would have you believe with a 2 servo set-up are not that much of a benefit.

I've got several models here that are many years old and rest assured that decent torque rods won't wear out or get sloppy.

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Agree with Alan and Don.

Torque rods work prefectly well.

I will use them over a two servo install as I find they are quicker and easier than doing two servos. As Alan says the benefits of sticking in two servos are not that actually that beneficial for most models. There are exceptions of course but a trainer is not one of them.

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Hi Nu Me. Appreciate your skill levels and comments made by others that may put you off a little re your torque rod installation. I have just aquired a Chris's Foss kit built Acro Wot with torque rod set up fitted and after years of flying 2 wing servo set up I could not tell the difference when I got it into the sky, I am pondering of going with two midi servos in the servo hatch or even the not so common large circular servo arm cut to give the more up than down set up just to settle it down on respone to inputs when on take off. Anyway continue with your build

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I took a 'hybrid' approach with my sadly dead Wot 4 ..... 2 aileron servos using 1 torque rod each, both in the wing centre section. Best (or worst) of all worlds!

Having said that, I agree with previous posts - follow the plan for the first build.

GG

Edited By GrumpyGnome on 23/07/2019 12:12:02

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Hi Nu Me, I would always go with separate servos for ailerons trainer or not. Many advantages, you can use them as flaperons (both ailerons down) or better still - spoilerons (airbrake, both slightly up). It's more fun to fly slow and low as you progress. Also, you can just glide, my 3kg high winger can stand still in a stiff breeze engine on idle. So much fun. Also, you can programme in differential if you want.

It shouldn't be difficult for you at all with your skills. Just position them correctly.

Ps. Going off piste can be quite dangerous.. but not in this case.. 🙂

Edited By ASH. on 23/07/2019 14:10:27

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Reasons not to use 2 aileron servos when you have all the materials needed for 1 servo:

1. You will have to source and buy an extra servo,

2. You will have to source and buy servo extension cables and fit them in the wings. If you have already built the wings and not made provision for a servo lead to route through the ribs that could be interesting.

3. You will have to source and buy linkages and horns.

4. You will have to design servo mounts to hold the servos into the wings and access hatches to fit and maintain the servos.

5. You will possibly have to source and buy extra materials to make the hatches and fasten them to the wings.

6. You will have to learn to program 2 aileron servos into your transmitter.

7. A trainer (and most importantly a trainee pilot) will not benefit from flaperons or spoilerons. Learn to fly a basic 4 function model well. Yes, in a years time when your trainer is "passe" then by all means use your new found skills and experience to either build a new wing with 2 servos or modify the old one.

Just not worth it.

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My thoughts on this.. If you are building from scratch then it's going to be a 'keeper' so why not have all the 'bells &whistles' in place now to use later. Your first model is like your first love..! Never forgotten and ways thought of fondly... laugh

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