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covering in words, not pictures.


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Hi all, I have reached that point already with my Great Planes Electri-Cub (albeit done for IC power) where it will need covering and I have no experience in that whatever.

I am unable to watch much on Youtube before my PC conks out, so I need words and still picture accounts, not video, please. Also, can a domestic iron be used rather than pay out for a special one?

Any suggestions?

Martin

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Hi Foxfan this may help;

 

**LINK**

or you may be able to search this site for alternatives.

YES you can use a domestic iron but they are awkward to use and be careful to set temperature low and let it settle before starting to cover model and test a small piece of covering first to check you have the temp set ok.

HEALTH WARNINGS.

Check that SWMBO isn't going to catch or you have permission .

2 Take care that dont leave a smear of the latest covering color on the iron. A bright color smeard on a freshly iron shirt will usually cause some domestic discord !!!

3. Or wait until she has gone out for the day and you have plenty of time to hide your activities 

4 When all of the above has failed buy a covering iron laugh

 

Edited By Engine Doctor on 24/07/2019 15:01:17

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No idea, Jon, but I already got it fixed once for a crapped out graphics board and won't be paying out again for some time. I'm not that keen to hear that odd "hurrrndee-hurrrn" sing song delivery that Americans tend to have, with the blessed exception of Flite Test, who I had to watch for assembly instructions on the wee Pietenpol "cardboard cutout", as my clubmates like to call the foamboard wonders. But, when it was maidened by an old hand for me recently and flew beautifully, I noticed a few other old hands wandering up for a look.

But now we move on and I suppose I'll have to buy a covering iron, dammit, to be on the safe side.

Don, I haven't looked for Solarfilm instructions, I confess, but will do so, thanks.

I have a roll of Solartex somewhere, barely started from a small model boat job. Do the same rules apply to that?

In which case, what do you suggest I paint it with? I tend to favour enamels.

Martin

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PC repair places are often bent as anything. My parents machine went up the wall due to corrupt windows install. i wanted to take the drive out to rescue our data. They stopped me as they didnt want to upset the warranty and the bloke on the phone assured them they would get the data off and sort it out.

We get the machine back and its got a new motherboard, cpu, ram and hard drive but is totally blank. no windows, no data, no nothing.

Despite their claims they made no effort at all to get the info off the drive or even diagnose the fault. Hopeless.

Many times simple stuff like corrupt drivers are the reason for problems but there is only about 5 minutes work in that so you dont make much money. Time to exaggerate.

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Jon, the local guy who mends pootahs is a very proper Scottish gentleman and doesn't charge a lot and does a LOT for your money, but a new doggy and today a new washing machine! means I'll be lucky to get a covering iron as I have had a few goodies lately like servos, cables and a wee pack of stuff from SLEC, so I don't want to be spending on this thing when I need some Cub yellow covering and an iron to put it on!

Meantime, the haunted fish tank in my corner will just have to keep crapping itself and having its plugs wiggled to get it to work again. Having to turn it off and leave it a while means I can get some work done!

I once had a Triumph Dolomite 1850, a lovely car I really enjoyed driving, but it would only start if I got under it, took the starter plug off the motor (couldn't get it from above) and pushed it back on. No amount of cleaning with air, WD40 or any other muck would help. In the end, having kicked it half to death wearing Toetectors so there was not a single straight panel I chopped it in on an Astra estate which never failed me until it blew up. I believe I have a PC with a similar affliction.

Cheers,

Martin

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Foxfan, a domestic iron will do the job. The one difference is when you want a cooler setting, beloved's iron takes forever to cool. Be aware, Solartex is much the same to apply, consult Solartex instructions. The temperatures are different.

But, be aware, Tex and film are different weights.

Assuming yours is the 1490 mm airframe, I would say, it's a bit small to carry a heavier Tex finish. There are lighter fabric finishes I think. Others know more than me. What does the manufacturer say. The American kits tend to recommend a complete package.

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Jon, if you were closer I'd send him to you! (Ahem, for a nice s/h Laser...)<G>

Don, I believe it mentions Monokote which is strictly American, isn't it? Not sure what else I could use the Solartex on. I made a model of Miss Britain III, a record breaking speedboat which has a fabric covered framework over its forward deck and cockpit. So I have almost a whole roll left. Is there really that much of a weight difference? I'll go with your better knowledge of such things.

Martin

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I keep meaning to ask and keep forgetting...should one use cellulose sanding sealer on the bare balsa to seal it? It all seems very open and unlikely to receive a self adhesive layer and hang on to it. I normally always seal any wood surface.

Martin

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Get a travel iron, I’ve used one for covering for years.....

covering...cut a slightly oversize piece, tack the opposite ends of the part your covering I.e. wing root and wing tip

make sure it’s laying straight with no wrinkles...then carefully go around the edges, tacking it I;place, teasing out any wrinkles before tacking it in p,ace with the iron.

when you’re happy that all the edges are stuck down and there are no wrinkles, go over all the edges with the iron (gently) to ensure they are adhered to the airframe, roll over the edges where they go from lower to upper surface (cover bottom first)

then place a thin cotton sock over the iron and gently go from one end to the other, shrinking the film.

finally, using a hairdryer, apply a gentle heat to the panel.

but in any event there will be instructions on the roll of film

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Thanks, Buster. It never occurred to me there would be instructions on the roll itself! I did once get a travel iron, come to think of it. That seems to have disappeared with the unused domestic iron.

I'll look em up again.

Martin

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Foxfan, Monocote is a film. Interchangeable with the likes of Profilm, Solarfilm, HK film. They all go on the same, but the iron temperatures are different, and knowing the correct temperature is the key, because temperature controls how much it's shrinks. Solarfilm instructions are on line, and they are good for any film, as they tell you how to calibrate an iron for any temperature.

Regarding the difference in weight, between tex and film, it will fly if tex covered, but it's heavier, and won't fly as well.

And these materials stick to raw balsa.

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