Martin Gay Posted November 29, 2019 Share Posted November 29, 2019 Andy, The ply plate is stuck to the front of the skins and the dowel blocks. We did this to the first two models after skinning and joining the wings. Martin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted December 3, 2019 Author Share Posted December 3, 2019 Thanks for the info Martin. I have reworked my mistake, I read the plan wrong regarding the ply brace. I have now got a skinned right wing! I just need to add the leading edge and wing tips. I noticed a warp in my wing when I checked it but I weighted it down on the Jig overnight and it was much better. It’s now staying on the jig! I’ve just glued the main spar on the bottom skin for the left wing. It’s very slow progress as I’m only managing a few hours a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted February 6, 2020 Author Share Posted February 6, 2020 Hello, My progress has been slow and riddled with errors but I almost have a completed wing, Could somebody share a picture of the completed wing tip and from the end of the wing as I'm unsure of the profile. I'm starting on the Fuz soon. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 Hi Andrew, Please have a look at Phil C's blog. He's having a lamination balsa/thin ply sandwiched in between, as most PSS builders do. Great explanation and pictures showing the process there. Hope it helps. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted February 6, 2020 Author Share Posted February 6, 2020 Thanks Mcg, I read His blog but the only photo he has is before sanding. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted February 6, 2020 Author Share Posted February 6, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted February 6, 2020 Author Share Posted February 6, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted February 7, 2020 Author Share Posted February 7, 2020 My f8 former seems too small, the stringers are lined up perfectly on the plan but the former notches look too big and the ext edges of the former only just meet the edge of the stringers. What should I do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted February 7, 2020 Share Posted February 7, 2020 Hi Andy I noticed the same on a couple of the formers - its easy enough to correct for. I'd keep the top rear spine as a datum as this is straight, and bring the lower spine up just a touch along its entire length so that the former fits flush top and bottom. I found they just sat within the lines on the plan... it didnt need a big adjustment. As the fuselage tapers to the rear in profile you can afford to move F8 rear a little too if that helps... it will soon meet the edge of the spine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted February 7, 2020 Author Share Posted February 7, 2020 Thanks Phil, that seemed to work. Just need to make sure the other side is the same when I do it. m Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted February 9, 2020 Author Share Posted February 9, 2020 How much planking do you have to do before taking it of the building board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 I'd try and get at least half of it done personally Andy, you need to leave an inch along the top and bottom to aid with joining/clamping the fuselgae halves together. In truth, I left more than that especially on the bottom face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 Hi Andy, Regarding the amount of planks, the general consensus is to start planking at the datum line. Then you can go up one plank and go down one as well until you're about 25mm (1 inch) from the building board. I would suggest to bevel each plank on one side to get a gap-free fit between the planks when glued to the formers. Hope this helps. Chees Chris Edit > well, Phil beated me to it... Edited By McG 6969 on 09/02/2020 20:05:17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted February 9, 2020 Author Share Posted February 9, 2020 Thanks Chris and Phil. I’m making good progress but my building board is fixed so I can’t turn it around and it’s getting difficult to plank the side away from me. I’ve been using cyno at the end of the fuz to set the plank in place then the aliphatic for the rest. I reckon I’ve spent about 6 hours on one half already. Gonna be some man hours in it when I’ve done. I’ve done at least 50 percent of the planking I think. I feel like if I had to do this build again it would be much better! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 Andy, My building board is also fixed. I plank as much as I can and then unpin the fuselage half before turning it around to plank the remaining section. As long as at least half of the fuselage side is planked it is unlikely to twist when you turn it around. Martin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted February 9, 2020 Author Share Posted February 9, 2020 Thanks Martin. I will hope for the best. I hope it doesn’t twist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted February 16, 2020 Author Share Posted February 16, 2020 So I’ve started the other side of my the fuz now. I made the stringers longer , this helped to keep the planks pinned down. I assembled the fuz last night and started planking today. I hopefully will be ready to join the two halves soon. Still a lot of work to do. Pics attached, the use of pins will please those with an ocd about using the same coloured pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted February 23, 2020 Author Share Posted February 23, 2020 Hi, what weight glass should I buy and how much do you think is needed to finish a sabre? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted February 23, 2020 Share Posted February 23, 2020 Hi Andy, As for the weight of your glass, I would tend to go with 25g/m². Regarding the amount needed, don't forget the few inches needed to 'overhang' your parts for a decent result. I didn't measure it yet but I would go for at least 2m² if you're glassing it entirely. So I would say 2,5m² for 'safety' reasons. As with balsa, you never have too much at hand... But I would wait for one of the glass covering Gurus to show up... Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted February 23, 2020 Author Share Posted February 23, 2020 Thanks Chris, I have gone for the lightest one I could find as it was mentioned you could use film if you wanted. I went for a 2m pack so hopefully that will do me. I'm also following your blog closely, great stuff, well done. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted March 30, 2020 Author Share Posted March 30, 2020 I’ve made a little more progress now as my workplace has closed for now. i sanded a little of the fuz, indeed they do come up well. I have Been working on elevator and actuator. I cut the Slots for the piano wire and checked the fit before glueing. I managed to get one of the sides Sanded and shaped with reasonable success. i Installed the bell crank, notice in my pictures the grey spacers. The spacers where left over from electric props and where a perfect fit. still a lot of worke to do 😢 Edited By Andrew Edmead on 30/03/2020 22:37:28 Edited By Andrew Edmead on 30/03/2020 22:41:44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted March 30, 2020 Author Share Posted March 30, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted April 7, 2020 Author Share Posted April 7, 2020 I’m stuck a little on the fillets that go either side of the fin. How much do they actually splay out as on the plan it looks a lot but on various build blogs it seems to vary. Also is there a dimension (width) for the rectangular bit that sits on top of the exhaust at its extreme? Thanks Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 I have 40 mm on top of the exhaust and 45 at the front Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted April 7, 2020 Author Share Posted April 7, 2020 Thanks Dirk, I will go for that. Very helpful 👍🏻 I’m getting closer to the glassing. There is light at the end of the tunnel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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