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TN Hunter EDF


Philip Barrett 2
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  • 2 months later...

The white canopy markings and the red on the rear part were both done with film. I did have a problem on the red part since you have to be very careful not to overheat the canopy whilst shrinking the film to the compound curve. The trick is to not have the iron too hot and work quickly so that the heat doesn't build up too much in any one place. solar trim might be a better option - if you can get any. If you have doubts practice on a spare bit of canopy material and be careful, once the canopy distorts there's no way back.

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Hi chaps. I have just started my build with the CNC kit. A little head scratcher I have come across. Where the 5mm stringers fit into the rear former F9, they need to be thinned down to fit flush with the outer edge of the former. I can't find where on the plan you start thinning then down after leaving F6? Not mentioned in the build article either unless I missed it. Cheers

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Hi Stuey, They just taper down over the last 3 or 4 inches of their length. Probably best done before fitting them but, if they're on already, it could be done after. Just be careful not to collapse former 9 as it's pretty fragile. The other thing that I did was to fill in the spaces between the stringers and fuselage sides with pieces of scrap balsa from former 9 back to the tail. This allowed me to sand down the rear fuselage to taper down almost to the jet pipe and produce a more pleasing (and more scale) shape to the rear end.

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Thanks for the reply Pete. I worked out that you are supposed to put notches in the stringers at the rear so they fit F9 properly. The confusion was caused by the plan referring to the stringers as spars! The same for the shallow slots on F6. I have my acetate for the thrust tube now so I can crack on Cheers

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

So , finally got the the field yesterday to maiden my Hunter and the second one I built for a friend.

Great day and both models flew fine once CoG set and some small trims. They fly similar to the Gnat, flast and smooth with only half power to cruise.

A couple of wake up calls with tip stalling in slower turns but that's the pilot and not the model.. keep it smooth and with a little speed in the turns and all good... cheeky

jet fleet.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Thank you Tony for your excellent EDF models. I built the Hunter after first building the Jet Provost.

My Hunter is modeled on the Rhodesian Air Force FGA 9, tail No R1821, as flown by my best mate who was shot down and killed in this a/c in 1979. I increased the plan size by 10% for both models. Using the FMS 4500kv 4 cell 50mm fan unit, 40 Amp ESC and 2200mAh battery the AUW for the Prov is 31ozs and the Hunter 28ozs. Added scale detail on the Hunter includes sabrinas (for collection of the ammo belt clips) and 230gal drop tanks. The increase in weight is partly countered by the increase in wing ares of 20%. I use a short bungee launch which works so well even in calm conditions. My Hunter flies fantastically well, smooth and fast but still lands quite slowly. The drop tanks aid visibility and orientation in this camo colour scheme.20200805_160526.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had two flights with my Hunter in it's camo colour scheme. It was a challenge to see so I tried to keep it close. It flies really well on about 80% power for 4 mins on the 2200mAh 4 cell battery. This launch proved exciting as we were slightly cross wind. Normally the launches are very straight forward in calm or windy conditions. For the video of this one flight go to

youtube.com/watch?v=M_fmkZIQuiY

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally flew the Hunter this morning, launched using a doubled 4mm bungee of around 20 feet long. Having been used to flying the Jet Provost, the Hunter is in a different league.

It is seriously quick, and looks fantastic. The only change for the next flight will be a reduction of the aileron throws, as it was just a bit too twitchy especially on full power.

Full credit to Tony, this is a marvellous model.

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