Gary Clark 1 Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 Hi All, I have the TN Hunter finished and the 1/4 scale moth minor is on hold until I can get the wing (which my friend is building as part of a joint project) so with only a Sig Kougar refurb slowly happening in the background, I needed to start something new. I've like the look of Peter Millers Ballerina since the mass build but never got around to doing one myself yet. My plan is to stick to the original design as much as possible and looking to use an Sc46 2 stroke up front. I'd have like to have an sc52 4 stroke but it's really tough trying to get one of these now. I started to cut the parts tonight so will hopefully start to build tomorrow. Hopefully anyone with any tips or good lessons learned can let me know as we go on. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul C. Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 Hi Gary, shame you couldn't get a 52 FS as I use an ASP 52 FS in mine and I found it to be ideal plenty of power when you want it and half throttle stooging around. If you haven't built on of Peter's models before check out his notes on how he builds the wings, easy method of building a straight wing 👍. Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 I shall be watching with interest. It will go like a rocket with n SC46. I had a similar sized design once (Dancing Girl.) with an SC46 That one would do knife edge loops!!!! Edited By Peter Miller on 15/04/2020 21:22:45 Edited By Peter Miller on 15/04/2020 21:23:25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Elen Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 Hi Gary, Another one here watching with interest. Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Clark 1 Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 I know the SC46 will be a bit more power than required but i do like to have a little bit extra for those max performance recoveries when it's that or sawdust....not that i have a lack of confidence in myself or anything! I don't like to fly my models fast so it should be a half throttle and just leave it kind of flight. I got the kit cut in a couple of hours and decided to wait until tomorrow to start building So i had dinner and then.....had to start building! I didn't do much but feels great to start! Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan h Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Hi gary. Another one following along. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 17, 2020 Share Posted April 17, 2020 I quite agree, too much power is far better than too little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hall 9 Posted April 17, 2020 Share Posted April 17, 2020 I recently bought a complete model Ballerina, it's very nice indeed. It looks to have been built by someone that knows how to do it.... but, it has an OS40FS surpass fitted... I wondered if that is enough to rise off grass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 17, 2020 Share Posted April 17, 2020 Oh trust me!!! Mine has an OS40 Surpass and it flies beautifully on that. All the aerobatics at a civilised pace. I have now converted to Electric with a 3541 1070 motor and it is almost as good, just lost the edge a little. Edited By Peter Miller on 17/04/2020 10:47:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Clark 1 Posted April 17, 2020 Author Share Posted April 17, 2020 I was tempted to go electric on this model but I feel like my last few have been electric and I worry I will have fewer and fewer glow/gas models. The appeal of electric is huge due to ease at the flying field and no cleaning up after but I still love to have a proper engine up front. Just a pity it's tough to get a suitable four stroke that isn't extortionate now. If anyone has a suitable second hand one then let me know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 17, 2020 Share Posted April 17, 2020 I know just what you mean. Lugging all the gear across two hundred yards up a slope is exhausting. Even the youngsters of 70 find it a drag!!! I still have four i.c powered models and a spare 30FS but.....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Clark 1 Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 Hi All, I've been making some progress and getting the wing done. This photo refuses to turn the correct way up so sorry for that! The construction is standard and simple but enjoyable. Nice clear plan to build from so far. I currently have the lower cap strips on and now the front 1/16 sheet on top to stiffen the wing before removing from the board. Gary's top tip, don't forget to cut the holes for the control rod in the ribs before you glue everything in.....it is much less fun to do once the wing is built! I have still to add in the dihedral brace but my plan is to gel that into both at the same time. This will mean building the second wing on the board in the same way but remembering to make a mirror image and then put the 2 sides together as peter did on his build log. I can't decide wether or not to do the wing tips now or once the wings are built and together. i am thinking later to avoid damaging them but not sure. Enjoyable build so far. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 That is the secret of a warp free wing, complete the "D" box LE befre un pinningthe wing. I then prop up the completed wing agaainst the second wing before fitting R-1 to the second wing. This means a perfect fit. I had one person who phoned me and complained that there was no teplet to show what angle to fit the R-1s. He had ended up with a big gap between them. MY Comment was "Read the instructions" He was a club member so I could be a bit "less polite" Definately fit the tips later.They are less likely to get knocked that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Clark 1 Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 Thanks Peter. I totally agree with the idea of leaving R1 until a attaching the wings. Even if there was a template, that would rely on the rest of the build being perfect and also the wing being set at the perfect angle for the joint to be flawless. Doing it our way means that even if you dont have the exact dihedral the designer planned, the joint is perfect (in theory obviously!) Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 I developed that sequence because I always had a gap. It also makes my system of making the hole for the front wing dowel work better. The person mentioned above used a piece of brass tube instead of a wing dowel and didn't glue it in. On the first flight when the model was inverted the wing fell off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Clark 1 Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 haha well if that's not a good reason to change your technique then i don't know what is!! Just blame it on interference or something that's my favourite excuse to hear after a crash! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 I have learned that honesty is the best policy. My usual excuse is "I goofed!!" They always believe that!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Clark 1 Posted April 21, 2020 Author Share Posted April 21, 2020 Hi guys, More progress made to the Ballerina wing. I have the second wing up to the stage of joining it to the starboard side. I still have to complete the box section at the front so it is still pinned to the board but i needed the R1 in place so that i could sheet the top and close the box up to prevent warps. I used the method Peter and I discussed earlier and attached everything whilst the wing was still pinned. This means a very tight joint and hopefully a straight, strong warp free wing. Sorry about the photos, they seem to rotate when i upload then and i can't seem to sort that. Crinked neck it is... I made 2 jigs to sit the end of the wing on. Peter has in the plan that each wing is to have 1" at each end rib so because one end is pinned down i put these at 2". Hopefully I've interpreted this correctly but if i have not, it's too late and that's the dihedral she is getting! The joint ends up fairly tidy using this method and the ply brace fits perfectly so that's reassuring when it comes to dihedral angle. Hopefully that makes sense and please chip in if anything has anything to add. Gary 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Elen Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 Hi Gary, Looking good. What are you using to take photos with? I have found that I have to take my photos ‘landscape’ to get them into the forum album the right orientation with my IPhone. Keep up the good work with the Ballerina, it’s a beaut. Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Clark 1 Posted April 21, 2020 Author Share Posted April 21, 2020 Cheers Mark. I'm using my samsung S8 but you may be right, I'll have a play about and see what orientation helps because it only happens with some of the Photos. I'm looking forward to starting the fuse so that I get an idea for how she looks for real. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 Gary, Mark is right with landscape shots My Samsung puts portrait shots sideways too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 Excellent. Yes, 1" under each tip or two inches under the one that is raised Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Clark 1 Posted April 21, 2020 Author Share Posted April 21, 2020 Thanks for the confirmation Peter and the advice from Mark and Denis has also proved to be accurate, Landscape photos has solved the problem. I got out to the garage for an hour or so after my little boy went to bed. The photo below shows the wing before the top sheeting is on. You can see the ply undercarriage plate and its reinforcements and the 1/4 inch sheet for the aileron leading edge/wing trailing edge but these still need shaped. It is looking straight and equal so something is going right Top sheet is on the front box section so it can be removed from the board tomorrow to finish the bottom cap strips then servo tray followed by the rest of the top sheeting. Things are going fast but that is the benefit of not having anywhere to go just now! Gary Edited By Gary Clark 1 on 21/04/2020 21:59:19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 You are doing a lovely job there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Clark 1 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Share Posted April 22, 2020 Port wing pretty much at the same stage as the starboard one. Just the bell cranks to put in and the 1/16 sheeting underneath there and its done. I have left off the wing tips and also the leading edge until later, that saves it from damage whilst i build the fuselage. The sheeting on top of the centre section will go on once I've sorted the aileron servo. This will be open and inside the fuselage but i'd rather have all that set up before i close the rest of the area up. I will get things cleared up and set up my fuselage board tonight and hopefully make a start. I still need to cut the tail surfaces but that should be fairly quick. Good fun so far and hopefully the fuselage is the same. Gary 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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