Pug DLG kit build

[Richard Harris]

Always wanting to try something different a DLG has been on my 'to do' list for many years but the prices of the RTF examples is over my budget for something I may not get on with.

So, when I saw the PUG kit by angle wing designs I couldnt resist, a small DLG that comes in kit form that is well within my price range, perfect for my desire to dip my toe into the world of DLG's.

Here is the link to the PUG

I will make a start later and do a build log as I go along, there is not a lot to it and it shouldnt take to long, I hope it is of interest?

Here is what arrived this morning, I opted for the 'optional extra' PUG decal set. plenty of laser cut balsa, ply, carbon rods and a wing plan.

Rich

[Graham Davies 3]

Watching this with interest Rich!

Graham

[MattyB]

Looks nice, but don't expect to much performance from the flat - I have been generally disappointed with the "pocket" sized DLGs (Alula, Elf, Libelle etc). Unless you are an experienced flat field thermaller (I'm not really) they just don't seem to have enough float to stay up long enough for me to find lift. The 1.5m composite ships are way easier to get away, but the prices are a lot higher too!

[Dwain Dibley.]

Looking in Richard.

D.D.

[Richard Harris]

Cheers guys,

Without too much trouble I have the first panel completed, its sports a 3mm carbon tube for the main spar and a 2mm solid round carbon piece for the LE.

There is a wing plan which comes on two A4 sheets, this has to be joined first and is easily aligned with reference marks, it was then attached to the building board with the areas being glued covered in sellotape (because thats all I could find ).

On to this goes the TE, centre lower sheeting and a tip plate before all the ribs are identified. These were slid onto the 3mm carbon spar in order, rib, riblet, rib, riblet etc etc

Once positioned CA was run into all the joints. I found it easier to apply the carbon LE starting from the outer rib, gluing in sequence to the root rib. Whist at the root the 3mm birch ply was added along with the root rib doublers and top sheeting.

To complete the panel the outer tip upper laminate was added before sanding the tip and giving it all the once over with a fine sanding block.

All of this took 1/2 hr tops, the panel is strong and extremely light.

More tomorrow I hope.

 

Rich

A photo of my efforts

Edited By Richard Harris on 17/06/2020 21:43:25

[Andrew Price 2]

Watching with interest!

[Ace]

Oooooo like it -

[Mark Cornwell]

Hi Richard.

Just finished a Pug airframe. I didn’t take build pictures, though it is a very simple build. There are some tolerance discrepancies. Noteworthy is the pylon mount. The tab to elevator groove fit width wise is too large by about 1mm. It needs to be tight or risk loosing the elevator and Pug!

The airframe complete weighs 63grams and when fitted out with rc kit will weigh around 95 grams.

I’ve modified the pushrods to a spring pull system using 0.3mm piano wire and Berkeley fishing line (see pictures).

The Pug is covered using Oralight orange and transparent white.

Rc kit is: 4 channel spectrum, 300mah 2S lipo, and bluebird 101HV servos. I used the bluebird servos as the spring pull system needs around 1kg torque.

The only other aspect I altered was the nose block, which I rebuilt so there is space to get the lipo further forwards.

Any questions and I’m happy to help.

[Richard Harris]

Thanks for the info Mark, nice job on yours. I am not familiar with the spring pull system?

Apart from a bit of light sanding my wing is now completed.

On to the fuselage now

Rich

[MattyB]

Posted by Richard Harris on 21/06/2020 12:17:06:

Thanks for the info Mark, nice job on yours. I am not familiar with the spring pull system?

It is basically an adapted closed loop where the return side goes to a small spring which is then fixed to somewhere at the tail end of the aircraft. As a result the tail surface is sprung towards one side, with the servo pulling against it in the other direction. It’s very lightweight, but (as per most things on DLGs!) rather fiddly to setup.

Video example of a spring pull setup

Edited By MattyB on 21/06/2020 14:06:14

[Martin_K]

Posted by MattyB on 21/06/2020 14:01:53:

Posted by Richard Harris on 21/06/2020 12:17:06:

Thanks for the info Mark, nice job on yours. I am not familiar with the spring pull system?

.... It’s very lightweight, but (as per most things on DLGs!) rather fiddly to setup.

I saw many elaborate methods for doing pull-spring on-line so for my first DLG, which I am completing at the moment, used an adjustable hitch knot, specifically a Midshipman's Hitch. Under tension it holds, with tension relieved you can slid the knot to increase or decrease the length of the loop around the horn/servo arm.

Not fiddly, just tie the line loosely in place then with the control surfaces clamped 'straight' between pieces of scrap balsa take all slack out of the non-stretch thread by lengthening the loops. After inspecting control operation I put a drop of glue on the knots. Completely stable after two days under tension and testing.

Edited By Martin_K on 21/06/2020 19:33:25

[Mark Cornwell]

Hi Richard.

The video of the spring pull is a good example of how to set up such a system.

Though I don’t use springs as long as those featured in the video.

Below is a picture of ones I use on both 1 metre and 1.5 metre dlgs. It works hassle/slop free and they last, dependent on frequency of flying, for up to 3 years. Best results are springs made from piano wire. I use 0.3mm piano wire.

When setting up centre the servos, route non stretch Kevlar thread and attach to the servo horn and then to control horn. I don’t use any fancy knots, but I do loop the Kevlar thread through the control horn twice. This allows adjustment prior to securing with CA once set. Once CA is cured I tie simple over hand knots and CA the knot.

Hope this helpful, that is assuming you do go the spring pull option!!

[Mark Cornwell]

Hi Richard.

The video of the spring pull is a good example of how to set up such a system.

Though I don’t use springs as long as those featured in the video.

Below is a picture of ones I use on both 1 metre and 1.5 metre dlgs. It works hassle/slop free and they last, dependent on frequency of flying, for up to 3 years. Best results are springs made from piano wire. I use 0.3mm piano wire.

When setting up centre the servos, route non stretch Kevlar thread and attach to the servo horn and then to control horn. I don’t use any fancy knots, but I do loop the Kevlar thread through the control horn twice. This allows adjustment prior to securing with CA once set. Once CA is cured I tie simple over hand knots and CA the knot.

Hope this helpful, that is assuming you do go the spring pull option!!

[Mark Cornwell]

Hi Richard.

The video of the spring pull is a good example of how to set up such a system.

Though I don’t use springs as long as those featured in the video.

Below is a picture of ones I use on both 1 metre and 1.5 metre dlgs. It works hassle/slop free and they last, dependent on frequency of flying, for up to 3 years. Best results are springs made from piano wire. I use 0.3mm piano wire.

When setting up centre the servos, route non stretch Kevlar thread and attach to the servo horn and then to control horn. I don’t use any fancy knots, but I do loop the Kevlar thread through the control horn twice. This allows adjustment prior to securing with CA once set. Once CA is cured I tie simple over hand knots and CA the knot.

Hope this helpful, that is assuming you do go the spring pull option!!

[Richard Harris]

Thanks for the link Matt, you learn something new every day.

Dave,

For this one I will go with the supplied piano wire push rods.

The air frame is all but complete, fuselage went together easy enough.

There are three 3mm lite ply formers that slot between each 1.5mm balsa sides, the one below the LE of the wing has a horizontal former interlocked in it for the wing bolt to tap into.

Fuselage sides and lower sheeting:

Front former:

At the rear end there is another lite ply horizontal former for the rear wing bolt mount.

It was just a matter of adding the nose block and hatch after that,

Tail boom is from 4mm diameter carbon, at the back end goes the tail mount which is bound withe the supplied kevlar string, its position is determined by dry fitting the tail and fin which slots on to the aft end of the boom.

Tail feathers are sheet 1.5mm balsa, there is lower piece to go on the fin before its all ready to cover.

At the stage the weight is 55g, bet it will easily double that after the gear installation etc

Time to find some suitable covering, think I have a roll of Solite which is supposed to be red but actually looks more like pink or possibly may have some transparent solarfilm left though that may be too heavy.

Rich

[Mark Cornwell]

Great job Richard. Superb pictures, which will really help those that have bought this kit.

Got out this morning for a flight with Pug. It’s really good. The launch peg makes a pleasant whistle as it zooms up on launch!!

Mine weighs in at 99 grams and it floats quite nicely. I’m pleasantly surprised with its performance.

Looking forward to seeing the cover job. If it’s anything like your approach to building we’re in for a treat. I agree with you Richard. Even on a model as diminutive as the Pug solarfilm would be too heavy.