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OK, the next model is on the bench chaps, and I am getting stuck in as usual.

However.....I bought some things from the shops and thought you would like to see them.

D.D.

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You guessed....It's a counter for turns......or a turn counter.

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Exciting I know......Try and keep calm Chums....

this is an atomiser to replace the garden hose like one I have been using.

The new one squirts out like an angels tears.

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The plan.

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The Gear.

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The Start.

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Times Two. Prior to this step I took the time to sand both sides, of both sides. this will ensure a nice tissue finish......this I have found out as I have gone along building these little beauties.

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I added two gussets to aid with the squaring up of the front, and to avoid any twisting. front former glued on. I will also say that I do not intend to use any CA in this build.

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Formers 1 and 2 laminated, I added the parts with the X's on to reinforce the area where the prop driver goes thru, because the hole had to be opened up by a couple of mm to suit.

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Former's 4 to 8 added, all nice and square, and lined up with the side 1/16th uprights. The PVA gives you time to mess about, which is great when it's all butt joints.

Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 18/06/2020 20:32:58

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I'm listening Robin, I have never used that method, let alone on something this small.

Would it save weight over the 1/16th flat sheet rudder that is prescribed ? The rudder could be lightened with holes...??

Also there is a boat load of wire undercarriage and wire wing struttery up front.

I think I could shave the horizontal stab down a bit if you think that would help.

As I say, I am open to suggestions and any help/advice people want to supply.

Cheers

D.D.

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Another fun day in the Dibly Manor Workshop, and a lot of head scratching going on to begin with.

The next jobs were add stringers, then add wing support wires, then more stringers.

Well.......the stringers were the easy bit, and the wires were a night mare. in the end I made two halves instead of a whole thing for the forward support, as the angles were all over the place. Also there was not enough wire in the kit to do the whole job, including the U/C and axle.........Luckily, like most of you lot, I have stuff all over the place, including plenty of wire.

After an age of bending and binding and coffee drinking, I ended up with this.

D.D.

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The rear support is loose in the bindings to allow it to mate up with the wing when that goes on.

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Top Stringers on.

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Cockpit surround made from paper, I cut the hole smaller, then snipped in about 5 mm, folded the edge under, and glued it with the good old glue stick. 

I also added some instruments, drawn on brown paper. I have a pic of a real panel, I may scale it down and put that in later.

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Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 19/06/2020 19:11:02

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The thing about this size model is, you can build loads of them and they don't take up any space in the work shop, they cost less than £40 all in, fuel is very cheap (50p per metre) and you can still add lots of detail to satisfy the Anorak in you.

But yes !! Addicted sums it up Chris, You are correct.......winklaughcheeky

D.D.

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She's looking good Dwain!

Here's a peanut DVIII with a laminated rudder profile. Aero Era Peanut Fokker DVIII

The advantage of the laminated outline is that all the grain is in the right direction, whereas a built up or sheet rudder with lightening holes is going to have some areas with grain in directions prone to splitting.

Here's a description of creating a laminated outline: Laminated outlines rudder/wingtps etc.

You could always build the model, cover, finish and leave the rudder to last. If she's looking ok C of G-wise, go with the plan rudder; if not, go for the laminated one.

Robin

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Posted by Robin Colbourne on 19/06/2020 21:23:07:


You could always build the model, cover, finish and leave the rudder to last. If she's looking ok C of G-wise, go with the plan rudder; if not, go for the laminated one.

Robin

Good idea Robin, I think that's what I will do, thanks also for the links and the info Mate.

Tim, Really tidy build Mate, they are quite a size aren't they. Looking forward to the covering and the scheme you choose.

D.D.

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Once I get in the Zone D.F., there is no stopping me.

The Little stick plane took about an hour all in.

However, I wanted the D8 build to be very accurate, so I vowed not to use C.A.,(it can be hard to sand and undo) which inevitably slowed things down a bit. I did use it to seal the bindings on the metal parts tho.

D.D.

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Hi Chums..............More wire bending today, great stuff EH??

I thought it through a bit more and decided I started in the wrong place last time, so I started where the thing is bound onto the wooden cross member and worked outwards/away from there.

Cosmic success...............surprise So onwards and upwards and I got it all fitted.

I jigged up to facilitate the fitting of the axle, one twist of thin copper wire and a brush of solder saw that sorted.

The wheels were a kit, 2 halves to be joined, I used good old Airfix glue. I had to drill the hubs to match the wire in the kit, then I fixed them on with heat shrink and a dab of C.A. wicked in to keep it there.

The instructions said to make a wire tail skid, bound to a 1/16 th cross member, I decided to make a scalish wooden skid, which allowed me to beef up the structure a bit.

I made a slot in the front cowl to let the prop driver out, so the motor can be wound easier on the winder. Even tho the max winds for this model are 350, it will still be easier than hand winding.

I am going to cover the fuselage next, as much for a change as any other reason.

D.D.

The jig.

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The under carriage.

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A few bits of balsa inlet to cover the dinks, 1/32nd all around the cowl as that was a particularly bad fit, and the slot that allows the prop driver out.

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Prop and dummy engine.

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Wooden tail skid. I hardened this with C.A.

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Slow day today, had to do some book clearing in the house.

I managed to build the tail, and get it covered. I also made the aerofoil for the U/C, that was a fiddle to fit. I think I should have fitted it before fitting the axle.

I also got the wings made up, i have to fit the centre section to the cabanes first, then add the outer panels, with the 1/2 " dihedral. I may just build the wing and leave the bottom middle section uncovered till I fit it.

D.D.

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Being back at work after my week off is interfering with my model building Chaps, but I have another week off next week for my birthday, so should be back up to speed.

I have covered the aerofoil, the rudder and fin, and started on the wings. The wings have to be bound to the cabane wires, so the middle section will have to be covered last, that should be interesting on the underside................crying

D.D.

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This came today. LOL. I love Cessna's

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