EarlyBird Posted September 5, 2021 Author Share Posted September 5, 2021 2 hours ago, Peter Miller said: Test flying Hound Dog today!!!! ? It's a beautiful day here, ideal for a maiden flight. Drilled out and cut out the holes in F1-F5 filed and sanded to remove burnt wood, nibs, and make them all the same width. Then glued F1 in place using the usual method. Give that a couple of hours then fit F2 after test fitting between F1 and F3, probably with adjustments to be made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted September 6, 2021 Author Share Posted September 6, 2021 More formers added using the same method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted September 6, 2021 Author Share Posted September 6, 2021 Apart from this one, a change of method that also works. I like to experiment as can also be seen with F3 undercarriage mounting being made up in advance. Having decided not to use F2 that's all the parallel formers done. Before the second side is fitted I am wondering if there is anything to mark up or 'guide rails' that will help once the sides are joined. Position of the wing bolt plate and servo mounts/plate spring to mind. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 6, 2021 Share Posted September 6, 2021 When fitting the second side on top of the current assembly I just use a set square to make sure that they are parallel 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted September 6, 2021 Author Share Posted September 6, 2021 More bits glued on. That's everything ready, I even remembered the wing bolt nut. I have done a couple of test assemblies to work out a suitable method. Next apply glue, tomorrows job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted September 7, 2021 Author Share Posted September 7, 2021 Glued the two sides ? That's all today but the perfect excuse I went flying the Ballerina. ? Weather looks good again tomorrow so I will be flying again, nice and early before it gets too hot again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted September 8, 2021 Author Share Posted September 8, 2021 Flying is getting in the way of this build. Started from the front and working to the tail I started thinking that I should push the servos as far back as possible to help with the balance only 18g where ever I move them will make little difference, I thought, then a radical idea sprang into mind, why not put them on the tail. With tail mounted servos in mind I am trying to work out how to do it. I could add 1/32 ply doublers to compensate for the holes. Still thinking ?maybe ply plates to screw into. Am I crazy to even consider it Peter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 8, 2021 Share Posted September 8, 2021 Try it. Ply mounting plates inside the sides at the rear. I did that one Miss Swizzle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted September 8, 2021 Author Share Posted September 8, 2021 So you did, not an original idea then.? Am I building the wrong plane? Miss Sizzle looks good. No 1/32 doublers just lite ply plates or would birch ply be needed? I have scrap 1/32 ply I could double that up to make 1/16 or treble for 3/32. Ok Peter the best thing to do is to try it, as you said. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted September 8, 2021 Author Share Posted September 8, 2021 Just checked what I normally use for servo trays 1/8 lite ply so that's what I will use. I'm happy now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 8, 2021 Share Posted September 8, 2021 Most experienced builders will modify a design to suit their preferences. This is the way that we learn to design things. OK, We use tried and tested layouts but put our own ideas in. This can even apply to kits, (I shouldn't say "can") there are cases where it is very important. To give a good example. The KK Spectre was a lovely control line stunt model BUT It had a weak point. The flaps were joined by a flat piece of hard wood which needed a comparatively large cut out in the side. Just below the rear of the cockpit and just below that was the bottom of the fuselage which was sheeted with balsa with the grain across the fuselage. The resulting weak spot was so severe that models were known to snap in manoeuvres. A simple ply doubler cured this. And so we learned to spot and cure weak spots. Likewise we can find control setups that we prefer. For example I always used a central servo and pushrods and bellcranks out to operate the ailerons. Now I use micro servos out in the wing. If you want to try something do. Look at it, work out and possible problems and go for it. If it works, great. If it doesn't you have just learned something new. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted September 9, 2021 Share Posted September 9, 2021 Sorry for a slight off-topic excursion but, since Peter mentioned the K.K. Spectre, as it happens I have just started building a scaled up, R/C version. My preliminary musings are here: Link . So far, the exercise has been a great illustration of Peter's point on the need to modify plans to your own requirements and preferences. It also shows how one modification can lead to another, then another, until you begin to wonder whether you're designing an entirely new model! Trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 9, 2021 Share Posted September 9, 2021 Interesting but I can't help feeling that a "loosely based on" original design new plan might have been just as easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted September 10, 2021 Author Share Posted September 10, 2021 Ply plates fitted and holes cut for the servos and extension leads. I am at the point where I need to place an order for servos and motor or the build will be stalled, not a problem at this stage but could be a disaster later on when it's flying.? Maybe not, sometimes the stall test is a non event. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 Looking good!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted September 11, 2021 Author Share Posted September 11, 2021 Thanks Peter. All glued up. Having dried overnight I can remove it from the jig. My first time using the jig it's so much easier and also increases the precision to which I can work.? I need to complete the design of the battery hatch, ? complete the rear decking, build the tail feathers or housework. Oh yes there's also the garden. Tail feathers I think.? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted September 13, 2021 Author Share Posted September 13, 2021 A bit delayed by the need to go flying. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted September 14, 2021 Author Share Posted September 14, 2021 Back to the fuselage with a few more bits added. Finally made up my mind after testing various sized batteries for fit. Cockpit fitted with covering applied before gluing in. All ready for turtle decking, formers sanded to shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 14, 2021 Share Posted September 14, 2021 Aren't you lucky. I can't even draw the construction of my new design. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted September 15, 2021 Author Share Posted September 15, 2021 Turtle deck started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted September 17, 2021 Author Share Posted September 17, 2021 and finished, nearly. Just sanding and shaping required. I had the bright idea of making the front part in a single piece, cut to shape and fitted complete in one. This avoided the centre seam that has always previously shown through the covering, when nearer than two feet. ? I think it worked well. Just started on the battery hatch. Then the cowl which means I have to make up my mind on the motor. I have a 3536 and 3542. I am thinking make the cowl for the 3542 then if I use the 3536 I will add 6mm spacers to make it fit. Or test fly the 3536 without a cowl then decide and make the cowl. Only one seat, it is a monoplane, not having the front section of cabin floor gave me more options on battery size and position hopefully there will be no problems with CofG, we will see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 17, 2021 Share Posted September 17, 2021 My 3541 1070 provides more that enough power. Not sure what the kva of the smaller motor is. Try it and see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted September 18, 2021 Author Share Posted September 18, 2021 My logic is that my 3536 910kv is some 370 watts. I have a range of unused 4S batteries that will suit also as the all up weight is less than three pounds it should have plenty of power. We will see. Experimenting is all part of the fun for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 I have a very simple way of finding out what is best. GEORGE!!!!!????? at 4-Max Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted September 19, 2021 Author Share Posted September 19, 2021 Hatch frame glued Shaped and fitted. ready for the sheeting.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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