DB Mascot aileron hinging

[Tim Kearsley]

I'm building a Mascot from DB Sport and Scale and this is only my 2nd kit build, so very inexperienced.

I'm puzzled by the ailerons. They are top-hinged and the plan shows mylar hinges. However, there's very little "meat" on the aileron side to take the hinge - just a 1/8 inch balsa aileron leading edge. The plan seems to show the hinge bent in the middle and angled downwards on each side, like a shallow inverted "V". The instructions simply don't mention the aileron hinging at all.

How would you proceed?

Thanks,

Tim.

[Matt Carlton]

With a top hinged aileron I would be tempted to use tape hinges rather than an actual 'hinge'. That has the advantage of sealing the hinge line as well. That tape can either be literally tape (scotch 'crystal tape' being ideal) or you can use the covering film.

Lots of articles around 'film hinges' or 'tape hinges' around.

[Geoff S]

I agree with Matt. That's how I hinged the 3mm ailerons on the Liddle Stik I built earlier this year for that very reason - not enough meat to slot in mylar.

I used Blenderm tape - it stick like the proverbial

Geoff

[Tim Kearsley]

Thanks chaps. I did wonder about tape or film hinging. I've assembled quite a few ARTF models and Blenderm tape is not unusual on foamies. I just wasn't sure whether it was a safe method to use on a heavier film-coated balsa model.

Tim.

[Capt Kremen]

Hi Tim,

Just finished and successfully flown a DB 'Mascot', you'll love it it is a great model.

Agree with everyone else: '3M Blenderm' (You can get it from the chemist as well as model suppliers as it's used for medical purposes), 'Magic Tape'. These are durable material hinges which will stick to almost any surface and last too.

See various online videos on how to correctly apply and make free-moving tape hinges.

It also has the advantage of completely sealing the hinge line which increases efficiency. Not too vital for this model but on an aerobatic or glider can make a significant difference.

Here's some pics of mine. I tape hinged all the control surfaces:

[Matt Carlton]

No problem with tape hinges on a heavier/faster model if done properly. The main thing to be careful of is just to make sure the surfaces are clean and dust free before applying the tape. If using film as a hinge, a smear of balsaloc will help enormously.

[Tim Kearsley]

Thanks Capt, very useful. Your model looks like it's electric powered? If so, how did you arrange access to change battery? I've fitted the forward hatch and the sloping "windshield" with magnets so that both can be removed easily for better access.

Tim.

[Martin_K]

I agree 3M Blenderm makes strong hinges. A couple of pitfalls to avoid (that I fell into).

Make sure your covering film is securely attached. Removing a mis-applied piece of hinge tape can lift the covering film.

Do not apply your hot iron to the heat shrink film after appying the tape. Blenderm itself shrinks with heat, closing tightly your previously nice free moving hinge.

Fearing that self adhesive tape on a top hinge surface may 'lift' I also applied some to the underside too, using a plastic ruler to push it to the bottom of the "V" section between trailing edge and control surface. That extra complexity made the job difficult and was probably not required.

[Peter Miller]

You can also use the coveringmaterial as a "clothes horse" hinge. Cut two strips of covering material aboyt an inch wide and join them sticky side to sticky side. witha about a1/8" overlap. Best done ironed together over a stril of balsa.

Cut them into 1/2" wide peices and iron on as shown in the sketch. It works well and is almost invisible.

Obviously if you have a different colour on the bottom you use two colurs on the hinge

[Tim Kearsley]

Thank you Peter, what an ingenious method. I'm very glad I asked on here - what a helpful group of people!

Tim.

[John Tee]

Shades of the hinges back in the single channel days with cloth.

John