Martyn K Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 Thanks Richard Best wishes Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose L. G. Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 Hi Martyn I`ve send you an e-mail with the magazine articles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 Hi Richard, Another forumite has very kindly sent me copies of the articles. Thank you Jose Luis.. Download from HERE Best wishes Martyn Edited By Martyn K on 13/11/2017 17:03:43 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 Well Danny, ... too late for me regarding 'not going mad', but nothing to do with the Fury ribs... Here is my approach of the different rib 'types': Only the center section has 4 tabs and if being laser cut half way the thickness, I don't think it would represent a difficulty to cut them off after assembly. I didn't find any ply ribs for the top wing and only 4 needed (3mm ply) at the bottom wing center section. +1 for me concerning wing servos. As for placement, I'll leave it to the Gurus. Oops... G10? Can somebody tell me what it is, please. @ Martyn > if there is a way to get a digital/.pdf copy of Richard's RCSI feature , please sign me in. Thanks. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 Hi Chris See the previous posting for the download link. G10 is a very thin fibreglass board sold by Mick Reeves and can be used for skinning. It gives a very hard edge and helps maintain stiffness. A posh and possibly better way of doing what I want to do and possibly lighter but I can use PVA to glue spruce rather than epoxy needed for G/F. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 Just had a quick read through the articles. Would appreciate others views on this. I am certainly looking forward to making a start Best wishes Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 G10 glues really well with thin CA. Try not to ever use epoxy.....I agree Martyn we all do things differently and long may that continue, but if you dont watch the grams next thing you know they become kilos....this is meant to be a scale model not a sport model CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 Posted by Danny Fenton on 13/11/2017 17:45:49: , but if you dont watch the grams next thing you know they become kilos....this is meant to be a scale model not a sport model Cheers Danny Very true.. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 Hi again gents, Thank you Martyn for the G10 explanation & the download link. Thanks to José Luis as well. Well, I just read the 1st part and my head really started to bounce horribly (could still be the fever though)... Sjeesh... OMG... or "Milliard de..." as we should say in French... The author seems to suggest to use 3mm balsa for the top wing central section (instead of 1,5) as it is a quite vulnerable area for handling and tranportation. He also wrote that, if he was going to 'redo' it, he should make use of shear webs at the front spars for both wings. Regarding the possible G10 strip, could a 1 or 2mm carbon rod be a substitute? Nice TE finish and stronger/lighter than GF. Any thoughts, gents? Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon Whitehead 1 Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 Hi Guys, I'm not sure I'm doing the right thing butting in right now, but don't hesitate to let me know if I'm misunderstanding the way you want to do the ailerons. Looking at the wing rib diagrams in earlier posts, they look to be drawn with the intention of assembling the ailerons along with the rest of the wing panel. However, I'm sure that the intention on the Bryant plan is that the ailerons should be built separately using the same centre-web method as for the tail feathers. Basically you cut the ribs into top and bottom halves along the chord line, glue a set of upper rib halves along with the upper halves of the leading and trailing edges onto the centre web which is pinned flat on the building board, then invert the assembly and add the remaining rib halves and lower le, jigging as required against built-in warps. Then the block Frise leading edge extension can be added and shaped. For those who've not met this method before, the centre web was invented way back in the 1960's for free flight scale model tailplanes as a method of reducing the risk of warping as the doped covering shrunk and the model aged. I first read about it in one of the excellent Eric Coates' articles in Aeromodeller back in the 1970s, and it does work. The Dick van Mourik article linked earlier has a photo of an aileron in which the 1/16th balsa centre web can be seen clearly. Out of interest I looked at my copy of the Bryant Bristol Bulldog plan, and this model doesn't have the centre web built into its ailerons. FWIW, all four ailerons on a bipe I've nearly finished building have small warps, around 1mm or so. So now I'm wondering if building them as per the Bryant Fury ailerons, which I'd never studied in such detail before, would have kept 'em straight Hope I'm not interfering too much. Kind regards Gordon Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 14/11/2017 13:41:27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard dalgleish Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 From memory the ailerons are built separate from the wing and flat on the board. I made up the hinges and glued them in prior to adding the leading edge to the aileron. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 Yes that all makes sense. I guess building the ailerons as part of the wing is useful when there is washout involved, that way the washout continues through the ailerons. I do like the idea of adding a .5 carbon rod all around the wing and tailplane trailing edge, I do this on some of my models, specifically along stringers. Carbon can be an expensive material especially the thinner it gets. I will have to see how much .5mm would cost I read through the build article last night, many thanks to Jose for sending it to me. Some interesting points, but not all of them I feel are valid, but that is just me, I build to fly and accept a hard arrival will break my models. The beauty of this hobby is that you can apply what you see as suiting your building style. I am alarmed by the statement regarding the models innacuracy, so will be overlaying a three view or two to see how bad it is, unless somebody has done this? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Sephton 1 Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 On tha basis that there's no such thing as an accurate three-view, Danny, I would caution you against making any changes based on a comparison of three-view to plan. If you want to check the accuracy of the plan, then I would suggest you check the shapes on the plan against photographs of the aircraft you'd like to model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 Yes. The inaccuracy mention was the bit that bothered me as well. Implied it was mainly around the fus areaMartyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 Andy is of course correct photos trump three views everytime. CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard dalgleish Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 For info folks I entered my Fury in a BMFA flying only comp a few years ago, one thing that Phil Kent told me is that the fuselage was slightly too wide at the back end, apart from that the outline is quite accurate. The model itself is very tough (I think) mine is built without any carbon fibre or G10 reinforcing. Its all just extra work, if I was to build another, I would look at beefing up the top of the rudder and fin, the model does have a tendency to nose all the way over if the landing speed isn't spot on. I would also increase the distance between the wheels a touch only maybe 1" just to help the roll out on landing. Apart from that follow the plans. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 Hi Richard, thanks for that, it is good to know What was Phil using as the reference for the fus width, did you have to provide documentation? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard dalgleish Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 Hi Danny It was flying only comp, it was just mentioned in conversation. To be honest I don't think anyone would ever know, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 I think I mentioned a while ago that the Sarik advert photo in RCME of the Fury didn’t look right to me and it was the rear fuselage I was on about. Outline accuracy is more important to me than scale detail. When I get around to looking at it properly I will re-draw it if it’s not right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 Colin, if there is a fuselage width issue, I'm sure Danny will check carefully before committing to cutting. As Andy wrote, three-views are not equivalent to the Bible, I'm afraid. I've been searching the net for some top/plan view photographs, but didn't had any positive result so far. The only one I have is the Belgian K4316 after its crash landing but it is small (400x400px) and quite blurry as from 1942... Maybe a trip to Duxford could bring a definitive solution. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 Chris, I’ve got loads of reference material, shouldn’t be difficult to resolve when I get around to it, although it’s not first priority at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose L. G. Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 Good morning. Dennis Bryant indicate in the first sheet of the plan the sources he used for desing the Fury. See the pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 Hi Jose, the profile 18 data is very weak. I have much better drawings, including some factory drawings, which as Andy will vouch for don't mean a lot either as photos are king. If somebody has 5 minutes and wants to oevrlay the Westburg profile and plan view over Dennis's plan I would appreciate it. I wont get time for a few days I am just curious, this doesn't mean that Dennis is accurate or not...... but may be good enough for most people not competing. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 And we all know how innacurate the Chipmunk plan was don't we chaps Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.