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K3731 Martians Fury 1

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Well all the festivities are over so back to the build actually I still carried on when I could so here are some pics up to date. As I said the wire/metalwork for me is no fun but the U/C is done and am now making a start on the upper wing supports . According to me the brass brackets that go inside the detachable wing mount are to big and the wrong angle but first the u/c pics

I've used brass wheel collets to give a good surface for the wheel to go against also using to soldered has increased the strength.




Below is an example of a poorly wrapped joint I cleaned all back and redid it later





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Seriously not my favourite thing to do but am slowly getting there , wire bending is really hard on old hands and wrists but I don't know an easy way around it ,annealing the brass parts is a big help and I dont think it will weaken them . once again a jig helps carefully lining the cabane wire and tack soldering allowed me to use both hands to wire wrap tightly I kept the whole assembly on the jig ( two U/C bearers set to the correct distance) when cool I removed the assembly to solder the brass fixing clips that I had previously bent to shape. Any way here,s the pic sequence any question or advice fire away.

I forgot to mention where ever the piano wire makes contact with another piece I ground a flat for better solder contact











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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello all, well I have been working away albeit slowly the cabane wire work is done and fitted for now there will still be parts of it that will need adjusting but that will wait until I complete the upper wing (not started yet ) I got hold of some stl files for the Vickers gun and printed out painted and fitted them Tony B sent me some files but I couldn,t get them to work but have since getting a different bit of software. The battery hatch is covered in ali tape I just didn't think I would be able to do it in Lithoplate the other areas that can be seen in the following pics are covered in lithoplate oh I also covered one side of the rear fuse in solartex . Litho wrk is not for the fainthearted even after annealing I made paper templates for the area to cover and transfered to the litho a sharp Stanley knife is used to cut straight edgesand sharp scissors for curves . I'm using Unibond contact adhesive spread on both surfaces now it gets really difficult. the plate has to be carefully aligned before any contact is made the stuff sticks and doesn't let go once in place I then carefully smooth down with a balsa stick and hardwood stick ,for me some areas crinkled up a little but a smooth file followed by 800 grit paper then 1200 if necessary afterwards polish to your hearts content with autosol metal polish. there is an inevitable weight penalty but I really wanted to try my hand at it as it,s a new skill it.s obvious practise makes a better job than I have managed so far.. Any way enough waffle here are the pics







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Still working on the litho plating so far all one side is done and the top and three sides covered in solartex plus an experimental patch of rustoleum chrome on the solartex and I think it looks pretty good .I have been indenting the reverse side of the litho to create rivits your opinion wolud be appreciated as to whether it looks realistic or not ,I cant vouch for scale lines but it is my first go so as long as it looks like a fury should be ok. here are all the pics to date not in any order.











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