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S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI


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Hi Eric, you are correct, the Mick Reeves ends spin freely at one end, and the other ends shortens/lengthens the wire. All lockable.

This is all new to me, I said at the start of this Masterclass, every one of us should be extending ourselves into an area we have not done before, this is my new area.

I am relying on the fact that Mick states these will take the load of a big 1/3 Strutter, so at this scale we should be okay. I am nervous, of course I am, it would be foolish not to be. I am using piano wire not the 1/16 flattened steel that he provides. But that is not different to the plans use of soft solder.

Hope it will be okay, the joints have flowed really well and feel very secure. Touch wood!

All four landing wires are now done, and I am confident with the process, I think I need the struts next.

Cheers

Danny

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Hi Danny, you won't regret going that way ,as I said earlier taking the link off to adjust it is no fun. I was not keen 0n soldering the wire to the end of a bolt I see you got your brass from the same source as me. I hope to test fly mine soon still a lot of fiddley bits but I think the test flight will be before squadron markings.

Cheers Eric.

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Hi Eric, having bought the fork ends as pairs, to abandon using one end would mean removing the end and rotating to adjust, as you say very fiddly. As you are getting both ends, use them.

My problem is going to be adjusting the rigging. On the full size you have tension gauges that tell you the tension in a given wire. I have four panels just like the full size, and though the wing joining rods set an approximate angle it is fairly easy to alter this with line tension. I am also concerned that the lower wings could swing forward too easily, so I may need additional wing retention.

Thanks for the info SR71, knowing the screws stay put is comforting, how did you adjust the wires to get everything under the same tension while maintaining incidence angles etc?

I taped a wing strut together last evening to check the fit and it appears spot on, so rather than build them on the model, I will make them on the bench, and keep my fingers crossed. I have to make two sets, one with weights and lead outs for control line and another std set.

Cheers

Danny

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Hi Danny, it was a long time ago when I built the Bulldog but from what I can remember I bolted the wings on then put the struts in which were built as per plan. Assuming incidences are correct , I measured the distance between the wings front and rear and fitted the wires. Any discrepancy in the distance between the wings can be adjusted on the wire provided you don't pull a warp into the wing, if you have an incidence gauge it will be useful. with the wings set, the wires I found just a little pull to get the clips in was about the right tension, you have the advantage of being able to tension with them in place. The one thing you don't want is slack wires so just enough to stop them rattling in the anchor points, this can be tricky as when one is tensioned another tends to slacken so it is a chasing game checking all the time. I hope this does not put you off as it is not as bad as it seems as long as you have patience. I always checked the wires after every flying session or after a heavy landing . I have come across a major problem mine won't fit in the car built up. I have a bigger car than when I had the Bulldog but the boot area it less due to storage places built in.

Cheers Eric.

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Thanks Chaps, the wires are easily adjusted without removing either end, just slacken off a lock nut. I will aim for an even but light tension and check the incidences during the process.

I am hoping to transport it rigged, we will have to see if it will go in my Mondeo estate rigged....

Cheers

Danny

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Thanks Eric, on the full size they are indeed smooth painted alloy, at least on mine. I was going to give them a coat of resin alone, make them tougher than dope. But sanding sealet may be enough.

My workshop is on the 2nd floor so it is still too flimsy to try and carry it out to the car. Maybe once the rigging is set.

Cheers

Danny

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Not a very productive day today. Made the lifting wires and was pleased how well they worked especially the dual forward wire, looks just as I hoped, and hope that answers your question Martyn as to why I used piano wire and not the flat wire from Mick Reeves?

606.jpg

However the wires do not lock the lower wing panel in position and it wants to pivot forwards.

This is not helped by the struts not meeting the wings perfectly, they appear to be a 6mm too short.

607.jpg

608.jpg

So I think I need to find a way to lock the lower wing panel, possibly a brass plate between the wing and centre section, as I think Martyn did?

Then I will cut the struts forward and rearward posts and lengthen them temporarily (thankfully they are still bare balsa) And see where we are from there.

I fear this stage could take some considerable time.

With hindsight I think we should have kept the wings in single panels, or used a better anchor method with lugs and rods as Gwynn did on his, and I did on my little indoor Cub.

We will get there though

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 29/05/2020 21:44:44

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I have the same problem with my struts. I put it down to me not getting the wings perfect and pulled the struts into place with the wires but did not check the incidences at the time assuming the struts were correct. But with other faults on the plan it could be the drawing at fault again. I have been bunking off again and making the most of the lovely flying weather so the Fury is at a stand still at the moment. Your Mick Reeves fittings look first class Danny

Cheers Eric.

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Thanks Eric, you only get around 6mm of travel on the Reeves forks, and i was doing as you did, pulling the wings to the struts, got close before running out of travel. However eyeballing the trailing edge the rigging was distorting the panels.

You better check yours, when you get bored of flying of course

Cheers

Danny

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Well in one way it's good to know in another it's a nuisance, from my point of view it highlights the same problem I'm having so I will have drag it out and into the hanger fit the wings and do some measuring bit of a long haul getting it right . By the way Danny it's all looking good 👍

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Sorry about the quality of this video, I am having trouble with the focus on my camera. Might be time to try the GoPro and see if I can do any better on the close-up stuff with that.

But if you want to see how simple the fork ends are to solder, and how the Reeves's fork ends work, here is your answer.

Sleep well.....

Edited By Danny Fenton on 31/05/2020 00:18:19

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Hi Danny, you make it look easy! my problem would be getting the wire straight. I'm fine if I can stick it down a tube and solder. I am going to try it anyway, will order the solder etc. tomorrow. Have you done any thing with the struts yet? I set mine up last night and found I will have to make them longer, I wonder what previous builders have done as mine match the drawing when laid on top. I had planned on mounting the radiator with two screws but found it awkward to put them in so I used two magnets. When I run the motor up it got to quarter throttle and blew the radiator off. back to the drawing board.

Cheers Eric.

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I think the pictures posted earlier show mine about 6mm too short. Hopefully take a look later.

Martian, my radiator is held on using 8 magnets in total. 1 in each corner. I have used this method many times. I would up your magnet diameter perhaps?

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 31/05/2020 10:34:25

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I think we have one wing slightly ahead of the other, as interestingly on the starboard side the strut fits much better, and with just a small amount of tension on the forward lifting wire, the strut is locked in, as are the wings, they do not want to move fore and aft. So I will extend the legs on the port strut and see if that restores the situation.

With the rigging under tension, even just a little, the whole structure is really rigid, well pleased.

A little walk-about for your delectation.
Cheers
Danny
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