Jump to content

S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI


Recommended Posts

Whilst that was drying I moved my attention to the tailskid.

I contemplated making it sprung, but couldn't justify the effort, I know I will regret it but it is done now.

fury98.jpg

looks a bit scrappy but is solid. I have used 14SWG as per the plan, bound with Kevlar thread from Mick Reeves. Thtead is locked in place with thin CA

I know Richard said his broke and suggested a heavier gauge but I thought if I leave the lower section un-bound then the flexing would be over a larger area.

Time will tell......

Of course Richard puts hundreds of flights on his models, mine barely fly a couple of times a year sadly.

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 01/11/2018 18:51:42

Edited By Danny Fenton on 01/11/2018 18:52:11

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The beam strengtheners were solid enough to be worked on so they were drilled and the blind nuts fitted.

fury100.jpg

fury101.jpg

fury99.jpg

I have been looking at the photos again and it appears that as somebody already pointed out, there is a middle stringer on the top centreline of the fuselage, not on the plan. I will have a look at the spacing and see if we can get away with adding one or whether it will mean re-distributing all of them......

Cheers
Danny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Danny.

Nice work.

I think the problem of broken tailskids/tailwheels is a commom isue of glow powered models. A few years back I have a Great Planes Super Sporter 20 powered with a O.S. 40 Four Stroke. The force to restrain the model for starting the engine and some armonic vibration shed a few tailwheels until I changed the engine for an electric motor.No more lost tailwheels. Just my two cents ¡

José Luis

Link to comment
Share on other sites

José Luis, you are quite right, I had forgotten about the loads involved during model starting and restraint! My excuse is I only do leccy. You can have a point!

I have cut additional notches in the formers, on the centreline. I used a small Permagrit file.

fury104.jpg

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 02/11/2018 11:08:18

Link to comment
Share on other sites

More stringer detail:

First I added the lower 3/16 stringer that doubles up the lower fus longeron. It was made from one piece of 20mm wide section of 3/16, which I then divided diagonally to give me the two triangles. Note the forward part tapers into the wing seat, and the rear abuts F11.

fury105.jpg

fury106.jpg

I didn't slot F11 for every stringer just added two, and I added a central stringer notched into the fin seat. I haven't cut the slot as it will need checking to include the rudder offset, you hadn't forgotten the three degree rudder offset had you?

fury107.jpg

fury108.jpg

I will fill in the side stringers next, but we also have to be wary that we don't block access to the fuselage insides for the pushrod/snake runs.

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 02/11/2018 13:00:18

Link to comment
Share on other sites

More stringer work.....

fury110.jpg

With the side stringers I was a tight sod and actually scarf jointed some strips of scrap together to make up longer strip, the waste otherwise would be too much. I made all the stringers from a single sheet of 3/16 stripped.

fury111.jpg

Also of note is the side formers at F10. they are marked for the position of the notches, not cut. I found they were spot on, but worth checking your positioning.

fury109.jpg

fury112.jpgOn to some sheeting now, I am anxious to see how the line flows through the centre section through the cowl area. I think I need the lower wing before I can do the wing seat area.

Cheers

Danny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A modification I would advise here. Before sheeting the top of the centre section, add some stringers at the edges of the trough, that way the sheeting has something to stick too when you cut the troughs open. Better still pre bend the balsa, which is what I should have done. Wet the balsa and tape it to shape. when dry it will be close enough that the stress will be non existant. Then attach it and sand to size.

I may yet have to tear my sheeting off and redo, we will see......

Cheers

Danny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stringers trimmed to length, and the rebates sanded in preparation for the cockpit sheeting.

fury118.jpg

fury119.jpg

fury120.jpg

I am going to sheet from F5 to F8 using wide planks, I think Jose has done well to sheet the section, I am not that good and the unsupported section between F6 and F7 looks like a recipe for disaster.

Once the areas are planked then the stringers can be sanded flush to the 1/8

Cheers

Danny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Superb progression, Danny.

Looking forward to your 'wide planks' solution.

Some times ago your were raising the question (to yourself) that there was quite a gap at the starboard side with - I think - the F6S counterpart 'missing' at that side... (?)

Did you 'insert' one as well there?

Cheers

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did some planking this morning, I was anxious to see how the transition looks between the centre section and the the cockpit shrouds.

I have shown a method for cutting planks at an angle, but to be honest I just cut them perpendicular and then sand the chamfer to fit.

fury122.jpg
I taped a length of scrap 1/16 to the strip cutter

fury121.jpg
Remember to adjust the blade height.
fury123.jpg
I like to start at the bottom and work upwards to the centre-line, the last piece on the centre-line leaving a triangular gap to fill. I like to make the gaps as tight as I can, resorting to filler only as a last resort.

fury124.jpg

A quick sand has shown that the transition looks okay, so I am happy with the shape of F6

I created a new former to straddle the large gap on the starboard side.

Cheers

Danny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was really excited to get to the bench today to do more planking, but alas only got 30 mins. anyway did a bit more. I should have mentioned yesterday that you cut one bevelled strip and then flip the wood and the next cut will bevel in the opposite direction. the scrap balsa taped on the stripper base to angle the blade was actually 1/8 and produced the perfect angle when a bevelled section was against another bevelled section. The first piece glued down is the first stripped, ie only bevelled on the one edge.
The fuselage shape dictates that the planking will need to be curved, but when the bend gets too great don't be afraid to make a curved piece to reset things.

fury125.jpg

fury126.jpg

The beauty of such thick sheeting is that there is plenty of meat to sand. good bevels are important, you don't want to sand the joints only to find the joints open up! Hopefully I have mine about right.

Cheers
Danny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...