McG 6969 Posted October 22, 2018 Share Posted October 22, 2018 Hi Danny, Are you still only using your Rocket CA so far? Or do you use some Aliphatic or PVA for some parts as well? I never used CA before; would the Green Zap-o-Gap be fine as well? Great idea to simply notch the triangular bits, btw. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2W Posted October 22, 2018 Share Posted October 22, 2018 Danny, the bottom 3/16" thick tail piece you have used leaves a gap behind F11 of 1/16". The plan shows this piece as 1/4" thick, but tapering up to towards the rudder. If this piece is made using 1/4" thick balsa sheet and the tangs below the slots are shaved 1/16" to match the end of the struts, this tail piece will match the bottom of F11. I suppose the alternative is to fit some 1/16" sheet and then sand it to match the plan. William Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 22, 2018 Author Share Posted October 22, 2018 Hi William I am not sure i understand I sanded my top and bottom fanged pieces to 3/16 because the slots in F11 were 3/16. and the side view showed them as 3/16. I guessed the text was wrong..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 23, 2018 Author Share Posted October 23, 2018 Very little time this evening to get much done, Dad Taxi was on call..... I added the 1/8th cross grain sections at the top of the fuselage from F4 to F8, this is not very clear on the plan, but I think I have it right. You will see the odd piece of 1/8th square, these are added where the joint hasn't been as good as i would like and just makes sure. the wood is soft so doesn't add much weight. The cross grain sections are trimmed to shape, by first marking a line formed by curving some balsa along the outside edge of the formers. The ends held in place with hair grips, these are really useful when wanting a light clamp. (Thanks Mr Sephton for that little gem). I appreciate this is teaching some to suck eggs, but please bear with me there are others that are new to all this. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 25, 2018 Author Share Posted October 25, 2018 Want to thank Tony for the cockpit frames, they look fab Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 While everybody else is charging off building wings etc I am still looking at the fuselage. I have had a TBS mini sound module arrive from Thomas benedini in Germany, I also oredered one of Thomas's new class D amplifiers. These amps generate very little heat and are very effificent. Rated at 40 watts it will drive an 8 ohm Visaton R10S speaker which will be mounted in the bottom of the fus, where the tank would reside. The other benefit of the amp is that it has a wide input voltage range, 3 - 6S LiPo. If you use the flight pack then you need an audio isolator between the pack and the amp. I was at gaydon on Sunday and was really pleased to run into Roger one of the Fury builders, good to meet you Whilst there I spotted some nifty carbon tube that was 6mm square in outside section, but with a 3mm round hole. I thought this might make a good wing joiner/allignment peg, if i decide to split the wings. It wasn't cheap but such is life. I bought a length of the tube and a length of solid 3mm rod. I will look at the rear stringers next as they have to be fitted before the sheeting can be fitted. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose L. G. Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 Hi Danny. I have similar carbon tube. In the end I didn`t use it because they weight a lot. Better option brass, aluminium or kevlar tube. Cheers. José L. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 Okay I lied, I decided to take a look at the removable centre section of the fus first. F3 and F4 were offered up and checked for fit. This is a confusing plan to say the least. If you look at F3 up against F2 you would be forgiven for wondering what the heck is going on, they dont allign at all. The secret is in the sheeting, it doesn't always go over all the parts. once you accept this it becomes clearer. Note I said clearer NOT clear! Anyway trust me me all will be well I cut a length of 3/8 sq hardwood (Beech on the plan) to fit the gap and made sure they fitted into the square holes in F2 and F3, they were a snug fit, if you have to sand a slight taper on the ends of the 3/8 square hardwood then that is better than the ply parts. Two things you have to be mindful of is not sticking the formers F3 and F4 to F2 and F5 which are already afixed to the fuselage! The other thing to watch is that glue in the joints between F2, F5 and the fuselage tops isn't stopping F2 and F3 sitting flush. I had to radius F3 and F4 a little to allow for the glue joint beneath. I avoided gluing the bulkheads by only applying a bead to the inside edges, but if you are unsure just lay a small patch of solarfilm backing between the bulkheads. This will form a glue barrier. I then added the side pieces which I cut from 1/8 using my stripper set to 15mm wide. (firgive me mixing my measurements, but 1/8 still means more to me than 3mm) And also fitted the top section from 1/8 by 1/2. Okay i will leave that lot to dry while I strip some 3/32 balsa for stringers. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 Having just looked at that picture there is a gotcha staring me in the face.... I am annoyed because I spotted it beforehand then promptly forgot. You need to drill the holes for the captives before you block access with that upper strip. Not to worry it is easily sorted, I will drill through the balsa AND the hardwood square sections. the balsa being there will actually help to ensure drilling vertically. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 Hi Danny Nice progress, I had the same pondering exercise on the sheeting for the removable panel Is your CL bellcrank going to allow the plan method of retaining using the 2 bolts / captive nuts ? As a matter of interest who supplies the carbon tube and rod ? cheers Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 Hi Martin the removable panel is fine but F6??? I am struggling with that one. The square section tubing was from Bucks Composites. I like it because you dont have to pack out tubing with epoxy to fit between the spars. But the jury is still out on splitting the wong panels. Yes the centre section can still be removed by simply pivoting the bellcrank to clear the screws, have to remember to make sure I have allowed enough travel though. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 Hi Danny super job so far I,ve yet to post my progress, just a quick question though I intend to go the tail skid way and am thinking of making it sprung which got me looking at your F11 with holes in it are these for your tail wheel or the holes made for the tail skid wire and how are you going to fit the tail wheel now that F11 is fitted and glued in place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 Hi Martian, thanks F11 has holes lasered in it straight from the plan. They are to allow the piano wire to be "stitched" to it. It can still be stitched even though in place, though you are right I probably ought to look at it before the stringers are in place, thanks I did consider making my skid sprung, it should be fairly simple to do, just watch the weight Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 Don t i get a point 😎 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 If you can offer me some advice on what to do with these upper bloomin formers you can have two... pulling my hair out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 Okay, I tried in vain to scale the Westburg fuselage profiles to see what is going on around F6 and for some reason my PC has stopped printing within tile-print, so that plan was scuppered. I cut out a new F6 in 1/8 and temporarily held it in place while I used a length of balsa to plot the shape, assuming the curve remained similar over the other formers and the sides would blend into F7. this is the result: I am not sure how I will create this but three laminations of 1/16 sounds fun The old F6 is shown resting aginst the back of the new F6 Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Mallam. Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 Hi Danny, On the 18th, you posted a picture of a bellcrank beneath the 3/8th sq beech bearer and between F3 and F4. Dumb question - what's it for? Also, where are you planning to place your rudder and elevators servos? Thanks, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 Hi Richard, The last couple of models I have made dual role, in that they can be flown R/C or C/L by simply moving an elevator servo linkage to the Bellcrank. The rudder and elevator servos will go behind the firewall, as far forward as I can get them. Pushrod routing being the limiting factor. The Chipmunk was quite succesful as a control line model Thanks again Chris Bott, awesome piccy Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 I have asked Richard D to see if he can find any pics from his build which may give us a clue to the final shape of F6. I notice Jose has sheeted his fuselage, so we will see how his looks I guess Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 As far as I can see the shape of f6 is wrong but that f5 and f6 should be basically the same at no point does there appear to be a flat section on that area of the cockpit .i,m pretty certain i will put in f5 and f7 first then have another look . Your thoughts on this wise master Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 I've just studied Jose,s post and it makes sense now . F6 does have a flat area otherwise the pi!ots view would be restricted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 I don't think so..... The wooden blocks that the windscreen sits on creates the illusion of a flat area. The whole cowl flows, with the current shape of F6 it does not. With my new version it does, but I want to wait to see what Richard says before i comit to glue. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 I now agree Danny ,I have downloaded drawings from blueprints . Com it includes former shapes and at position ff which is f6 on the plan it is founded .I will upload and share as soon as possible later ,it looks like my earlier supposition is correct anyway see what you think later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 to pour fuel on the fire we now have Jose,s drawing and blueprint one I have posted that on the main Fury thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 Richard has shared his pics with me and he has built his with a flat topped F6. I guess Richard used the Traplet parts. His doesn't look wrong. However careful study of the pics that we took at Duxford on Wednesday of the Fury I and Nimrod II showed no flat section. When we look at the Peter Westburg drawings of station 53.25 we also do not see a flat section. I think the wooden plinth under the windscreen has been misinterpreted as to mean the combing is flat. Dennis must have used one of the "suspect" three views as the basis for his plan. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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