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S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI


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Hi Danny, thanks for the .pdf of the cockpit, but looking at your latest photos, the outline you have modelled has a curved transition from the back to the door. This appears to be in contradiction with both the plan and the Duxford photos. Am I missing something?

William

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Hi William, I did indeed add a curve to the rear edge, so you may want to do the same on yours. I used the Westburg drawings to obtain the shape. On the Fury the bulkhead (F7 on the Bryant plan) is vertical, on the full size it slopes. The straight rear edge crept in as the template was cut from paper and I did the curve ad-hoc. the template did not have the curve.

fury129.jpg

Just looked at the flickr photos and you might be right, it seems more radiussed doesn't it? But that could simply be the angle.

Okay I will re-visit

Cheers

Danny

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Hi Danny,

If you don't mind me jumping in.

Obviously 'artist' impressions aren't The Bible at all.

But even photographs can be misleading, depending at the axle position of the camera and even more important the focal length of the lens being used. Don't ask, but it was one of my majors in my graphical studies.

If you have a look at the last pic you posted, please note the distorsion/twist of the windscreen it shows.

My best guess is that the 'blue' line of your sketch is too 'rounded' and the pencil line at the right is 'better'. Or maybe a profile just between the two of them.

Also for the back end, from a profile view, maybe the cut out should be straight and follow the line of the cockpit door at the port side.

Just my novice two euro cents, of course... wink

Cheers

Chris

EDIT > I din't saw Martin F's post when I was writing... just AMAZING... surprise

 

Edited By McG 6969 on 06/11/2018 21:27:47

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Hey Martin that's a great shot of Gwynn's Yes it does indeed help, that is assuming Gwynn got it right, wait did I really say that, of course Gwynn would get it right!

Anyway, half a dozen shapes have been cut in paper and offered up, I am happy with this one I reckon.......

fury134.jpg

I appreciate what you are saying about angles etc, and you are right. The top of the door in all the photos looks curved to me. like Jose I have tried to get the side view to match as well which is quite difficult, but i think this is close.

You have 30 seconds to change my mind

Cheers

Danny

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I have been struggling with what to do about the cowling area, and decided I better face the problem sooner than later. I started by adding some hardwood blocks to anchor the cowling in position so I could apraise the situation

fury135.jpg

I decided to split the cowl along the upper panel line, this section had to come off for battery pack changing.

fury137.jpg

People often ask how to cut cowls, and this is how I do it. I have a razor saw that is only for cutting glass fibre. The glass wreaks havoc on the blade, and will take the edge of a nice blade straight away.

fury136.jpg

The cowl was then refitted, to judge the height adjustment needed to the fuselage sides.

fury138.jpg

The top of F1 was removed, and a strip of 3/16 used to bridge F1, as a hole now made the top weak.

fury139.jpg

3/16 strips were added to the sides to bring them up to the same height as the panel line through which I had cut.

I will say that I have no idea how this will all pan out so please wait until I make progress before following this path. The objective is to ensure that parts split on panel lines, or at least close to them. If this all seems like a great deal of work then you are right. But for me I have to try and improve the lines around the nose, put it down to my OCD

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 07/11/2018 19:37:41

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Hi Danny,

Not that I'm going to 'copycat' you right away as I didn't even opened my Fury wood pack so far. frown

But may I ask you where you got that splendid white gelcoat finished cowl... ?

From some earlier pics I saw, it doesn't look at all being similar to the 'former T.' one. question

Cheers

Chris

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Hi Martin, I am probably not going to use the cowl at all. the next step is to fill the top section from the CS to the back of the cowl ring with blue foam. Once that is done, then I will make side pieces in blue foam, then lower cowl section.

Hopefully end up with a full cowl mold but one that goes further back. As I said I am not sure how it will work out, but the top section has to be made at least.

Cheers

Danny

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Hi Chris, the cowl was kicking around in a friends garage for years, and he kindly donated it to me to use as a reference. The cowl doesn't end on a panel line at all and would annoy me. It has a Traplet type reference number inside, but the lines where the three part mold are joined are very poor. The mold has been poorly assembled before the glass cowl was made. It will serve my purposes just fine.

Cheers

Danny

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Thank you for answering, Danny.

I don't quite understand why a 'three part' mould was needed, except of course for the top blisters.

I'm still planning to have a try at making a 'one' piece mould - including the panel lines needed - from the spinner down to the front cabanes. It would be quite large, but not really a problem as it all remains a very 'convexe' shape. I mean without the cylinder blisters obviously.

Then afterwards 'splitting' the different panels where needed.

Of course I should have a better view when/if I start up building the fuse, but maybe the idea sounds a bit insane anyhow. angel

Cheers & thanks

Chris

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