James Humphreys 1 Posted February 26, 2021 Author Share Posted February 26, 2021 So these wing sections went together really quickly this pic shows the false leading edge with the aluminium wing joiner tubes glued in place, the protruding metal will be cut/ground flat Next I offered up the centre and middle sections with the carbon rod joiner in place, in my case each one needs shortening by 2-3mm to fit properly Now it looks like I've been too heavy handed with the sandpaper ☹ on the balsa sheeting, although it is a good close fit against the ribs Pic of wing sections before top sheet went on Pic of the 3 wing sections together just the leading edge to go on then onto the wing tips. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 Those German 2m F3-RES kits from Hyperflight are extremely well engineered. I've got two used ones - an X-RES which I had to re-cover and de-warp (but which now needs a new fuselage after going almost OOS in a boomer last summer and was recovered some miles away!) and a PuRES which I also had to re-cover (why do some people insist on doing a lousy job?!). Down the line, also for bungee, I've got a FXj, an Austrian full-house 2.5m to upgrade... needs stripping of its Oratex (why on earth did the dingbat choose the heaviest available film?!) and re-covering with Oralight. You're doing a good job James - look forward to the finished article! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Humphreys 1 Posted February 27, 2021 Author Share Posted February 27, 2021 So today I started the wing end sections and oh boy did I wish I hadn't the balsa parts are small and extremely fragile, especially when you've got a head cold and the concentration of a goldfish. one of the ribs, note the thin cut out. So next I had to fabricate a new central rib spar as I glued the ribs into the wrong slots ?♂️ This wing is basically the same as the others apart from some small differences, Note the gap between the two ribs along the spar, this is to accommodate a wing joiner later on. If I've got the patience I'll try and finish the wings tomorrow. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Humphreys 1 Posted March 6, 2021 Author Share Posted March 6, 2021 (edited) Sorry for the delay been back to work so can only build at weekends know. In the picture you can see the knubs/feet on the underside of the ribs these need to be sanded off with care to follow the curve of the rib, note the tiny slot/mark this is the amount that needs to come off (not all ribs have this mark) before After Before After The wife's flexible mail file came in handy. The outer tip was next to be rounded off according to the plan Apart from glueing the intermediate and outer wings together (which I'll cover again) that's the wings done. Edited March 6, 2021 by James Humphreys 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 Your wife gets flexible mail, is that so she can send it back? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Humphreys 1 Posted March 6, 2021 Author Share Posted March 6, 2021 3 hours ago, Ron Gray said: Your wife gets flexible mail, is that so she can send it back? ???? never noticed that typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Humphreys 1 Posted March 6, 2021 Author Share Posted March 6, 2021 Onwards with the Fuze Not much done today with other jobs taking up my day. First job cut & sand the parts, the sides consist of 3 parts per side. 2mm balsa, 0.8mm ply doubler, and 2mm ply edge reinforcements. Making sure to make a left & right handed pannel, here they are glued & pinned Next the bottom pannel is made the same way & pinned Next comes the cutting of the carbon fuselage tube to 660mm heritage is marked up. And cut. Hopefully do a bit more tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 Nice progress!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 Do you have a translation of the German instructions - or do you just punch phrases into Google Translate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Humphreys 1 Posted March 6, 2021 Author Share Posted March 6, 2021 2 hours ago, Jonathan M said: Do you have a translation of the German instructions - or do you just punch phrases into Google Translate? I have a copy of the translated instructions, but something gets lost in the translation also the lack of pictures doesn't help. There is someone else I know building this model who's way more experienced than me and he has been struggling with this build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDD15 Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 There is a comparison build log of the X-RES and X-Dream over on RC Groups: X-RES and X-Dream Comparison Build However, at times in this thread it can get a little confusing as to whether the author is talking about the RES or Dream. In truth I’m using both of these build logs and the copies of the instructions to feel my way through my build. So I’m sorry James but you are “on point” so please keep up the good work! ? Thx idd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Humphreys 1 Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share Posted March 7, 2021 1 hour ago, IDD15 said: There is a comparison build log of the X-RES and X-Dream over on RC Groups: X-RES and X-Dream Comparison Build However, at times in this thread it can get a little confusing as to whether the author is talking about the RES or Dream. In truth I’m using both of these build logs and the copies of the instructions to feel my way through my build. So I’m sorry James but you are “on point” so please keep up the good work! ? Thx idd Yes I'm aware of the other build log which I have been using as a reference when I get stuck. Hope this is helping you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Humphreys 1 Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share Posted March 7, 2021 So this morning I've done some more ? First I glued up the nose which is 5 sections glued together with the large hole being the uppermost part Next was the fuze to boom balsa tapering which is 7 pieces I used the boom as a centralized guide. And glued Next I did the 3x3mm spruce bottom reinforcements NOTE these are glued to the ply DOUBLER not the balsa, as the bottom of the fuze gets glued to the balsa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Humphreys 1 Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share Posted March 7, 2021 So next was to dry fit the fuze bearers these are numbered ,5,4,3,&2.with 5&4 holding the boom and being the rear most. All the bearers have a notch on the top these are fitted upwards and on the right, also note bearer no.2 the piece that's glued on needs to face towards the nose otherwise the central wing wont fit correctly. This pic shows the rear wing mounting with screw attached the ply mount has already been threaded leave this loose in its slot (this will be glued later)the next pic shows left/right & bottom pannels fitted the tail boom has to be placed through the bearers 4&5 before the bearers are glued to the pannels. DO NOT GLUE THE TAIL BOOM TO THE BEARERS this needs to be left loose for the tail alignment later. View of the bottom pannel with hole for the release hook. Pic of the bungee release And the wooden part fitted into the bottom pannel. A hole needs drilling for the wing screw, mount the central wing and match the screw to its mounting plate, once the mounting plate is in position it can be glued in place. next the central wing needs to be centralized so the distance from the trailing edge wing tip is equal on both sidesonce done the hole for the locating peg on the front can be donepic shows wing in its locating hole Next I did the top balsa capping on the front, forward & aft of the access pannel next the access pannel with a locating tab glued on the front underside I also cut & trimmed to fit the top rear balsa capping BUT NOT GLUED. Next pic shows the nose cone glued on and access hatch. this next one shows a almost complete fuze, note the tail boom still hasn't been glued or the tapered balsa fuze/tail boom covering. sorry for the length of this post, well back to work so no more till next weekend cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Humphreys 1 Posted March 13, 2021 Author Share Posted March 13, 2021 So slow progress today first off there was plenty of sanding firstly the nose.and the tapering for the boom before After Next the Bowden cables were threaded and the exit holes were done, the elevator cable is marked on the plan which exits on the top of the boom while the rudder is on the side. top hole drilled & threaded Side hole drilled &threaded masking tape is to hold in place Next up is the elevator bracket hinge side view here it is dry fitted to the boom Next is a latch for the battery bay i decided not to use the suggested option in the plan, using a piece of wire bent at @ 90° wit 3cm length to lock under the frame the red is just some heat shrink. The nearly completed wing just servo's to fit 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 Coming on nicely James. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 Definitely coming on nicely James. I have been following but as a relative novice there is more for me to learn than help I can give. I Have just read this tip on another topic and I hope you don't mind. 10 hours ago, Danny Fenton said: Type as you would normally, place the cursor where you would like the picture and click the uploaded picture at the bottom of the window. Carry on typing and again click the next picture to add it. If you do not they all get added in a line at the end. A carriage return between pics makes it easier to read. Cheers Danny The only thing I would add is that the placement of the photo is guided by the position of the last cursor. I therefore type then hit enter before adding the photo. Trying to be helpful ? Cheers 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 Agree with this - having the text above or below the photos is a lot easier for other people to understand than if they're randomly at the side, and having a clear space between two photos is clearer still. Also don't forget that as soon as you've posted you can check the layout and edit if need be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Humphreys 1 Posted March 14, 2021 Author Share Posted March 14, 2021 Just out of curiosity do my posts look different if viewing on a pc/laptop ??? All these posts have been done on a phone so they appear ok to me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 I've just checked the same thread on my phone, where they look fine. But YES they do look different - much more higgledy-piggledy - on a PC or laptop screen. The easiest thing to do when composing new posts is to make sure there is clear space between each bit of text and the following photos etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 8 hours ago, James Humphreys 1 said: Just out of curiosity do my posts look different if viewing on a pc/laptop ??? All these posts have been done on a phone so they appear ok to me. Thanks James. That's useful information and explains why other topics have the same issues when viewed on a PC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Humphreys 1 Posted March 15, 2021 Author Share Posted March 15, 2021 Cheers I didn't know that my posts were like that I'll try and remember ? P.s if any admin wants to rearrange the posts fine with me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Humphreys 1 Posted March 21, 2021 Author Share Posted March 21, 2021 Ok a quick update remember this part?? It's the elevator mount, I was going to attach this today so I checked the alignment and oh boy was it out it looks like I glued it together crooked, I'm currently weighing up my options as a new part with postage from Austria is close to €43 euro.?♂️ Anyways next is a little tip I was told to do just incase I needed to swap out a servo, which is to make a channel out of drinking straws (makes it easy to thread the wires) The two central straws are tapered Next I just covered the elevator and that's it,stay safe. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 James Your crooked elevator mount should be easy enough to remedy. Assuming you used CA, then just buy a bottle of CA Debonder and let that soak in before removing and cleaning the parts. When it comes to re-gluing, first run a couple of turns or so of masking-tape around its position on the boom to take up any slop in the fit (experiment with how much). The CA will then soak through the whole lot to give a strong, correctly aligned join. PS: your posts are now much easier to read - text nicely above and below the photos! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Humphreys 1 Posted August 23, 2021 Author Share Posted August 23, 2021 I'm so sorry I totally forgot about this thread. I finally sorted out the elevator mount out by soaking in acetone, the rest was just finishing off covering etc 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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