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Ideas for 1st Foam Board Build - Suitable for Inverted Practice


Andy-H
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Passed my A test last year and am currently getting comfortable with an electric powered Wot 4, kit built mk 3. However, I get easily spooked when I try flying inverted. Might be not enough speed. The nose seems to drop rather quickly and I have to roll back to normal flying before I lose too much height. 
 

I wonder whether it might be better to try getting started with inverted flying with a lighter model. I’m intrigued with the idea of building from foam board and/or Depron style foam sheet - cheap, quick to build and light.  I’m wondering whether I could build something this way to use to practice inverted flying. Say c.40” wingspan running off a 3S 2200 lipo. Did wonder about upscaling a Hanky Planky. 
 

Any suggestions would be very welcome. 
 

Andy

 

 

 

 

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Ah ! Good point John about the amount of elevator down-throw. Didn’t think of that. I have an idea it’s still set up from when I initially moved across from the trainer and it may be I was a bit cautious setting the rates. I’ll also make the high rate a bit more generous and see how that works. 

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Ron and John have the trimming right, designers give nose heavy for a first flight, it flies, but badly. Better than too far back. Then it flies once, after a interesting first, and last flight.

The other bit, invert it, not too fast, normal stooging about throttle, relax ( important),and when unfortable, roll out, never elevator. It does take time to get muscle memory to push to go up. Or learn to displace eyeball into the cockpit, or however you do it. First circuits, then figure 8, the A test but inverted. 

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Having built a plethora of foam board models, I would give them a miss as most of them  (not all of course) are flat plate and have no wing section as such.

 

Even for an experienced pilot, they are not at all easy to complete any sustained inverted flight.

 

The Wot 4 is a proven design, and with a bit of tweaking will fly inverted ok.

 

However, if you really want the right tools for the job, I would look at a so called "Pattern Ship".

 

These models are designed to fly inverted, just as well as the right way up, and would instil a lot of confidence at your stage.

 

They can look a bit intimidating, but once trimmed they really will fly "on rails".

 

Maybe a second hand model to kick off with?

 

Good luck!.

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 Looks like I should persevere with the Wot 4, get it trimmed properly and then put in some more stick time.
 

Interesting comments on the foamies, though.  As it happens, I did buy a s/h Acrowot wing & fuselage at a bring & buy recently (put together for the sale, I think) and that’s well on the way to being flight ready. Just adapting for electric. 
 

Finally, any suggestions for a suitable “pattern ship” style model, Simon ? Not for now but maybe something to work towards. 
 

Thanks again.

 

 

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If you want an inexpensive F3A type model then the FMS Olympus fits the bill.

 

Going back to the Wotty, mine is a little bit of an anomaly as it has been built around a 6s power train (but I tend to fly it on 5s) and the battery is pushed back under the CoG. Like that it will fly inverted with very little pressure on the elevator stick. 

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First rule to trim something you want to fly inverted, nose weight, keep removing weight until it needs just a hint of push ( down) elevator to keep it level. Note it changes other behaviours, if you now point the nose at the ground, and let go, it will not self recover, or will slowly. 
The last sounds awful, but in the long run makes flying easier, as the thing is trimmed to obey the sticks, rather than you trained to fly it as you want, despite what it wants to do. 
The pattern ships are easy flyers, but just need to be flown. Sarik does the Chilli Breeze, and Chilli Wind, in short kits. Old style but still good, and not difficult to build. 

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The Wot 4 is a nicely aerobatic model that will do anything you want, either way up, providing that it is balanced and trimmed properly (a statement that is true for most non-trainer models)

 

It does sound like yours is nose-heavy and simply needs the CG moving rearwards a bit. Check this by the 'dive test' at a safe height close the throttle and push the model into a 45 degree dive. Let the sticks go and watch what it does; a gradual pull-out (or better still a straight line) is what you want, if the dive increases add nose weight, if the model pulls out strongly remove nose weight.

 

Tom

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Thanks for all your thoughts - the advice was spot on. Having checked the c of g a little more carefully, turns out the model was slightly nose heavy. A small weight on the tail to adjust this (temporary fix), together with a slight increase in down-elevator throw seems to have sorted the problem. Had a couple of flights in calm conditions this morning, it rolled in and out of inverted without much fuss and didn’t seem to need much down elevator whilst inverted. 
 

I’ll have a few more flights to settle my nerves then start working towards the dreaded figure of 8 ! 

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