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Gifted Glider, but what is it please?


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The Unlimited after power conversion & later wing re-cover job.

 

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Igor 2 function, Solartex covered poly wing, RTF weight 950g. Close up shows TE notched to fit.

As shown it would climb vertically & reach 200m within 30 secs then typically 320 - 330 sec glide.     

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21 hours ago, PatMc said:

I'm curious about some of the details of your model which I think have been modified from the original design - E.G. your model has an AMT but the OP one has elevators, it also looks like it has a ply-wood servo mount that's glued to the fus & of course the motor is an "enclosed" outrunner not a brushed one as I'd expect.      

BTW is the motor fitted to a moulded plastic mount ?

AMT

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Servo wood tray

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Screwed to the fuselage

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and modified motor mount.

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The ply servo tray looks to be original with a balsa block glued in as a battery locator. The motor has been replaced, for certain.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I now have the gifted fuselage which is in perfect condition along with tail plane and rudder.

Futaba servos to the tail and a very old looking motor!

As a winter project I will build my own wing, 2 meters span in 2 parts.

Simple dihedral as previously suggested using a pre cut taper wing 'kit' of ribs off ebay if the chord is about right.

I fancy adding long ailerons while there as I have a pair of wing mounted servos spare.

 

A few more questions please;

What motor size would be good? I have some 3 cell batteries (Lipo) so want to keep this 'capacity' so the motor is just to get to altitude etc.

Also, what size folding prop would I use? Motor/esc/prop will all come from 4Max.

 

Radio will be with my trusty Spektrum DX6, so I will be removing the current RX etc.

Just to add, have ordered the rib set, root chord 7.16".

 

Adding ailerons, there is no need for dihedral, the wing can be flat?? (easier to build and join)

 

Thanks for all the help as ever!

Graham.

Edited by 911hillclimber
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31 minutes ago, 911hillclimber said:

I now have the gifted fuselage which is in perfect condition along with tail plane and rudder.

..............................................................

Adding ailerons, there is no need for dihedral, the wing can be flat?? (easier to build and join)

 

Thanks for all the help as ever!

Graham.

You could build it flat, but it'd look better with a few degrees of dihedral - flat wings tend to look 'droopy' (I would have said anhedral, but I can't spell it) 😉

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Off to the model shop tomorrow to buy the wood for the wing. 

74" wingspan as the spruce/balsa length is 36" and the centre section will be 2"  flat width and the wing halves will angle from that root. dihedrel will be 100 mm at each wing tip.

 

I have a set of super clean laser cut ribs from Sky High RC, and have now designed the wing: (I use the term 'Designed' loosely.... it took me all of 15/20 mins).

 

I plan to install ailerons from the tapered wing tip across to the parallel length of the wing ( approx 560 mm) and might thieve these (foam) sections from a 'dead' Kingfisher that will donate the servos too.

Will use 3/16" SQ spruce for wing spans and bridge between top and bottom runs with 1/16 balsa sheet pieces from root to tip.

There are 26 ribs/ half wing, so 35 mm between ribs.

Root will be reinforced by ply for 4" either side of the root section and then those 1/16 balsa infills there after. Ply will join the upper and lower spruce strips together with epoxy. This fuselage centre section will be sheeted over with a hole to allow servo wires out to the Rx.

Parts will be glued using Super Phatic! and Gorilla epoxy.

Covered with semi see-through Solartex (as the tail plane) I expect this wing (my first self 'designed' model aero plane part ever) to be strong enough. (optimist)

 

I have a new motor from another project which I think is FAR too powerful but fits the fuselage nose a treat.

It is an Overlander T4240/10 and will run on my stash of 3S batteries. Will this be too much; I don't HAVE to use full speed..

 

What size folding prop should I use for this model please??

 

I could buy a used wing off ebay, but this is far more fun.

Edited by 911hillclimber
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A 12 x 6 folder should be good but check that the current draw is under the max for your ESC/motor combo. I always go for full on/off with near vertical climb dead upwind for about 30 secs of power then hunt the thermal. Any aerobatics are power off & always try for a near pre-marked spot landing - it's good practice & adds something to achieve to each flight.

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Thank you Pat

The plane came with a very small prop unmarked but measures 7" dia open, blade length only 2.5"

The original motor a 2 wire lump with a small 1/8" shaft dia

I do not yet have an ESC for this Overlander, 4Max I'm sure will advise when I'm ready.

My club has a good field with a relatively tight strip, but others manage perfectly ok gliding into the field, one in particular flies with laser precision....but that's not me!

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

The plane is all done today, ready to fly next year I hope.

 

Wings covered well, raided an old RC trainer of it's electrics, and re-installed the lot into the glider with a new folding prop etc. Remarkably for me I managed to get the RC all bound and servo's all working inside of 20 mins.

 

Pondered though on the question of balance, but with battery in place (3 cell) and 30g of weight in the nose to achieve a slight nose down when balanced on the main spar position of the wing. I hope this is right!

 

Has been a nice little rescue project.

 

 

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22 hours ago, 911hillclimber said:

Pondered though on the question of balance, but with battery in place (3 cell) and 30g of weight in the nose to achieve a slight nose down when balanced on the main spar position of the wing. I hope this is right!

 

That sounds like a decent starting point, but it can be easily checked by giving it a gentle chuck (switched on) over some long grass, that way even if it's a long way out, you can correct it without any damage being done.

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