Steve Fox Posted October 2, 2023 Author Share Posted October 2, 2023 Oh joy The winds are back in force. I was hoping for a quick go with the Bixler this morning. No. I think most of the country copping it. I tried going out to workshop but it was so loud I couldn't hear myself thinking. The power off now so must be some lines down. Maybe tomorrow. I have been thinking about the fuel tank height in relation to the gas engine. Where should the position/ height be of the tank. My first petrol engine so all new to me. Are there any good articles and or advice about. Cheers Steve NZ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Fox Posted October 9, 2023 Author Share Posted October 9, 2023 (edited) Better weather Hello folks,well the weather is slowly improving, we made 23 c spring day yesterday which was very pleasant. The Morane build is moving ahead quietly. The main focus has been about position the rudder and elevator servos, which I think I have sorted now.by placing them further forward by about 10 cm (4 inches) from my original position under the cockpit area. So now positioned under the fuel tank area behind the firewall. Access to the servos will be from underneath via the belly pan. The full size Morane conveniently had an access hatch there so I have done the same. The setup for the rudder and elevator will be push pull at this stage. I had a go at fiberglassing the belly pan and the new hatch yesterday and it seems to have been a reasonable result. Cheers Steve NZ Edited October 9, 2023 by Steve Fox Add pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Fox Posted October 9, 2023 Author Share Posted October 9, 2023 Well it git OK Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyinFlynn Posted October 10, 2023 Share Posted October 10, 2023 16 hours ago, Steve Fox said: The setup for the rudder and elevator will be push pull at this stage. Is there not space to add a bellcrank under the pilot seat and convert your pushrod to pull-pull? Pull-pull makes for a far more accurate and slop free method of empennage control besides looking better (IMHO) on this genre of aircraft. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Fox Posted October 10, 2023 Author Share Posted October 10, 2023 2 hours ago, FlyinFlynn said: Is there not space to add a bellcrank under the pilot seat and convert your pushrod to pull-pull? Pull-pull makes for a far more accurate and slop free method of empennage control besides looking better (IMHO) on this genre of aircraft. Yes , funny I have been having a chance of heart about the pull pull, thanks for your thoughts. I will change over. Cheers Steve NZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.4g Shaun Posted October 10, 2023 Share Posted October 10, 2023 (edited) Hi Steve. On my Morane, I used 3 large Hitec double output arms as bellcranks, ball raced them and mounted in a beech bearer across the fus located under the seat. Pull pull cables attached to each elevator half and the other for the rudder. Make sure the cables at the bellcrank end is the same width as at the control surface horns. I then used carbon pushrods from the front mounted servos to the bell cranks. You can see the pushrods in the previous photo of the cockpit on mine. I successfully used this method on my first Morane as well. Shaun Edited October 10, 2023 by 2.4g Shaun Typo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Fox Posted October 10, 2023 Author Share Posted October 10, 2023 Hi there Thanks again for all the great tips and ideas. Pull pull my was original plan, not sure why I deviated. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Fox Posted December 27, 2023 Author Share Posted December 27, 2023 Hello all. Sorry I have been absent for a while, everything got very busy and I came to a complete standstill on the build. Back onto it again now and good progress has been made. The two wings are built although plenty of tidying up to do. I hope you are all enjoying a nice Xmas break Cheers Steve NZ 1/3rd scale seat 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARC Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Watching this build with interest , I've recently purchased the seagull version which looks good so far . From previous comments did i see a recommendation for Aileron differential , also assuming a bit of rudder mix will help in the turns ? thanks Andy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Fox Posted January 18 Author Share Posted January 18 On 03/01/2024 at 21:51, ARC said: Watching this build with interest , I've recently purchased the seagull version which looks good so far . From previous comments did i see a recommendation for Aileron differential , also assuming a bit of rudder mix will help in the turns ? Thanks Andy Hi there Andy, yes I believe that you are correct in aileron differential and rudder mix.My 1/4 scale Fokker D.VII needs plenty of rudder in the turns, so I somehow expect the same..cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J D 8 Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 I think it is fair to say that just about all aircraft of the early era require rudder for a tidy turn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Fox Posted January 18 Author Share Posted January 18 Hi folks, well some progress, but not much. I have been reading up on how to use Koverall from SIG. This is my first attempt at using it as a covering. I have been looking for the SIG "Stix it" adhesive in our model shops but it doesn't seem to be available here in NZ. So have been looking for alternatives to tack the cloth on to the air frame. Interesting comments on forums, such as hairspray, pva glue and dope ,mod pod as a option. So ended up experimenting with these ideas as I imagine a good number of folks have in the past. Turns out that the Mod podge was the best at tacking the fabric onto the Balsa. I tried a watered down podge first, let dry sanded and applied a further watered down coat After allowing it to dry, I used my covering iron to tack the fabric on. It was ok, but not that strong a bond Next I tried full strength podge, allowed todry ,sanded and then applied a watered down podge. The result was much better with a stronger tack!! So I will use this method. The other thing I have been up to is fixing up my old HK SE5a plane which I completely destroyed months ago.after shredding through our Hazel nut tree. I thought I had stalled it in the turn to land, but later I found the aileron clevis had fatigued and broke off at the crucial moment. I was going to bin it but months later I decided to re build it after realizing I didn't want to part with it. I think its about 12 years old. Did anyone get one of these when they were on the HK site years ago Cheers Steve NZ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Freeman 3 Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 When using Koverall I dope the structure and then use a medium cyno to stick the covering around the edges only, rubbing with a finger to ensure it is well glued. Small areas at a time. The cyno is used in small amounts and helps giving a nice edge when cutting the covering, no frayed edges. Using a good cream on the hands before doing this protects the skin, some use just the finger from a latex glove. Once finished you then dope the covering which adheres it to the structure( shrink first) Koverall does take quite a few coates of dope to fill the weave especially on the shetted areas. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Fox Posted January 18 Author Share Posted January 18 10 hours ago, Chris Freeman 3 said: When using Koverall I dope the structure and then use a medium cyno to stick the covering around the edges only, rubbing with a finger to ensure it is well glued. Small areas at a time. The cyno is used in small amounts and helps giving a nice edge when cutting the covering, no frayed edges. Using a good cream on the hands before doing this protects the skin, some use just the finger from a latex glove. Once finished you then dope the covering which adheres it to the structure( shrink first) Koverall does take quite a few coates of dope to fill the weave especially on the shetted areas. Hi, thanks for the great tips cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Freeman 3 Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 Another option would be to see what the full size aircraft guys are using as the fabric is also initially glued to the structure. Some home builders use normal contact adhesive and the iron the covering on. Stits and Stewart systems also make covering adhesive. The Stits product is a old product that still uses MEK which comes with a health risk. The Stewart system is water based and is quite new on the market. One of my mates is busy covering a 40% Pitts at the moment and used both glues and confirmed both work very well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Fox Posted January 24 Author Share Posted January 24 Hi all Well I am having an interesting time with the Koverall, not having worked with it before is producing a wide Learning experience. Understanding the strength of the dope have given me a few issues My first attempt at covering the rudder broke a joint at a weak point which I was going to address prior to covering, but I forgot to do it. I made a slit with the Drexel and installed a thin ply insert to strengthen it with additional epoxy glue Moreover the rudder became slightly warped much to my dismay. Not badly and went back into the correct shape once I had removed the Koverall Second attempt was looking very promising and I was rather pleased with my efforts. But again I noticed the rudder had warped slightly and it wasn't lining up with the tail plane. The strong dope is deceiving me, I wonder if I can use thiners to weaken it at all??. So third attempt tomorrow, hopefully I will be successful . Cheers Steve NZ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Fox Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 Very pleased with myself, after 3 attempts at the Koverall and think I have it worked out how to manage the dope etc . If you look at the rudder you can see I added some balsa stick to aid the ply insert to stop the warp I was experiencing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Fox Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 Hi all Well the covering of the tail feathers is complete and overall happy with it results. It had taken some time to do as I went very cautiously with the whole process. I certainly feel more comfortable at tackling the fuselage now. I did a sample piece of Koverall to see how paint adheres to the fabric.I used a Rustolum undercoat which went on well and appears very flexible to the surface without a hint of cracking or chipping. Then I applied some acrylic paint which had the same results. Not having a petrol engine before, I am wondering about how fuel proof this acrylic plant would be?? My next problem or issue is that once I soldered the undercarriage, I didn't notice that the left hand a little out of square giving it a toe in aspect which a little annoying, more so that I did not notice as I was working on it. It will require a slight bend back. My plan is to give it to my son and he can sort it out at his workshop where he has the equipment to make good. Hot weather here at present so a bit hot at times to work in the garage, mostly early evening is ok Cheers Steve NZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J D 8 Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 With models of this size I recon it is good to have suspension in the way of the full size to dampen bounce on landing. Axle can travel up and back some in a loop on the rear leg. Bungee cord around a pin on front leg holds axle down in place but stretch's to absorb shock on landing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Fox Posted February 7 Author Share Posted February 7 19 hours ago, J D 8 said: With models of this size I recon it is good to have suspension in the way of the full size to dampen bounce on landing. Axle can travel up and back some in a loop on the rear leg. Bungee cord around a pin on front leg holds axle down in place but stretch's to absorb shock on landing. Thank you for your thoughts, I will investigate this further as it's a great move, smooth out my landings!! Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Fox Posted February 7 Author Share Posted February 7 Hi all Managed to do a little more today between gardening and wood chopping or rather chainsawing it.We start early as we need a fair bit to get through winter. So best to make a start now. The local mill delivers big bundles of slab wood for a really good price, but it means a fair bit of hard grafting to get it done. Worked or the pull pull for the rudder this afternoon, the rudder has a brass post which hooks up internally so it has to be addressed now before I can cover the fuselage. I have set up a metal steering arm and it was going to be retained on the rudder post with a grub screw, but I quickly realized that was not going to be a good idea. So I drilled the both sides of the steering arm and also the brass tubing I made use of the existing thread in the steering arm to screw a bolt right through and will have a nut to secure it with added loctite. I am planning on using turnbuckles in the cable between the servo and the rudder to help wih tensioning the lines.I have 2 sizes to choose from. I just wanted to thank everyone for all the valued input provided, this is the largest build I have ever undertaken, so Thanks !for your comments Cheers Steve NZ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.4g Shaun Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 (edited) Hi Steve, One thing to watch, the clevises pins can be a point of failure when used on a metal horn. I've seen a number of 1/3rd scale WW1 models meet an untimely end due to this. I would either drill out and replace the pin with a steel bolt or use clevises that are already designed this way. Also the steel turnbuckles will be more robust than the brass ones. Edited February 7 by 2.4g Shaun Typo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Fox Posted February 7 Author Share Posted February 7 (edited) 12 minutes ago, 2.4g Shaun said: Hi Steve, One thing to watch, the clevises pins can be a point of failure when used on a metal horn. I've seen a number of 1/3rd scale WW1 models meet an untimely end due to this. I would either drill out and replace the pin with a steel bolt or use clevises that are already designed this way. Also the steel turnbuckles will be more robust than the brass ones. Hi thanks, yes ,I will action that ,t You are right I had Clevis pin break several months ago!! Thank you Edited February 7 by Steve Fox Add more discussion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyinFlynn Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 Check the formed thread in the clevis is a good fit to the turnbuckle, then lock it up with a locknut. It will prevent the thread wearing should there be any rattling between the turnbuckle and the clevis. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Fox Posted February 8 Author Share Posted February 8 11 hours ago, FlyinFlynn said: Check the formed thread in the clevis is a good fit to the turnbuckle, then lock it up with a locknut. It will prevent the thread wearing should there be any rattling between the turnbuckle and the clevis. Thank you very much for the tip,it's these little things that make the difference in doing a good job cheers Steve NZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.