FlyinFlynn

For a nominal dipole antenna, which is what a typical R/C Tx antenna aspires to be, the -3dB radiated power level appears around 78 degrees from the horizontal.(that is half power at the blue lines in the elevation plane diagram) In other words, if you point your tx antenna directly at your model you will get an order of magnitude reduced RF energy arriving at the Rx, (-30dB in this case as shown at the 90 degree point in the elevation plane polar diagram.) Having two Rx antennas doesn't increase the level of power gathered from the air except when one antenna may be shielded by something metallic in the model, then the other antenna receives the energy and the model doesn't lose the signal. That is why you separate the antennas and place them in different orientations well away from anything metallic.

...plus to that, if you do point the end of your tx antenna to your model if you should suffer a range problem simply jerking your tx upwards will present a better aspect to your model and 'should' recover control...

Or your Tx for that matter.

Just found this - Can someone please help me with reprogramming a Tarot ZYXS2? It's the yellow version and does not have a usb cable as it came on a 2nd hand Heli. I bought a Bluetooth module for it as I thought but it turns out to be the ZYX 24 whereas the module for the ZYXS2 is the ZYX 12 I think. Itlinks to BT but no response from the gyro. If I knew the data port pinouts of the S2could I use a standard usb dongle to connect? The data port is 4 pin and I've worked out the first 2 pins from the left are ground then +5v. The other 2 presumably tx and Rx? I have a ft232rl and could make a lead. Will this work? Any other ideas please? on https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1512179-New-Tarot-ZYX-ZYX-S-ZYX-S2-Flybarless-System/page851#post52678671

As to the pinouts, the ground pin in the data port will be connected to the ground of any servo socket, the +ve may also be connected to the +ve of the servo output...but it might not be as the servo will be +5v and the programmer may be 3v3. As to the Tx and Rx it wont hurt if you get those backwards, it just wont work so then try swapping them over. Other than that you could open the ZZYXS2 case and have a gander, the Rx and Tx traces will normally go together to a uP of some sort whereas the +ve will go off by itself.

That looks for all the world like a standard USB-Serial adapter Maybe try something like this.

Well, changing the colour to black and adding a centre line is easy... however, someone else has already done it .https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=52469175&postcount=6 black Bugs Ear.pdf

Ahhh... your 'mistake' was reading the 30Amps rating of the ESC as proper Amps and not 'Chinese Amps' which they most probably were! The normal rule of thumb is the same one as the light output values given on Chinese LED torches ie. about half. 🙂

Maybe they know you have the paid for version.....Anyhow...just my personal experience.

I always found NCH excessively pestered me with adverts for it's paid for offerings so I found alternate softwares from companies that didn't. They might have changed now but it was a real pain.

The last time I used a covering iron it was also a travel iron for the vast majority of the job and I made a small shoe that I silver soldered onto an old soldering iron tip to get into the tight spaces that not even a pukka covering iron tip could get into.

Perhaps you might like to post this on mode-zero forum, you will find plenty of info there, there is a sub-forum on modules. A Hitec spectra 2.4 Tx module will fit in your Optic 6 apparently There are several FRSKY modules available but I am unfamiliar with them. As far as Corona goes, they still offer 3 variants, a CT8F to fit a Futaba TX module socket, a CT8J to fit the JR style Tx module socket and a CT8Z which is a hack module to fit internally in a Tx without a module socket - all available from Aliexpress (other stores also). Some of the other manufacturers seem to have discontinued their modules because " they are impacting full transmitter sales"....... that is some seriously funky logic going on there. They seem to think the RF module somehow delivers the 'bells and whistles' functions of the transmitter.

Closest I can get. They are scaled against the root profile so they are all the same profile. The tip profile I have is not exactly the same as the tip profile on the plan but getting eight perfectly interspaced ribs in both size and profile is beyond the means I have at my disposal. Bugs Ear.pdf

Ummm In expert mode you can select a different set of settings for each model on the build plate that override the default settings. Maybe worth checking you have 'outer brim only' when right clicking the model? Other than that maybe raise an issue on https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/issues

Well, it removes the old and crusty analogue components of the 20 year old existing encoder board which is usually full of potentiometers and old analogue timing components. It provides you with a couple of mixers that the old encoder may not have, it has a throttle lock which the old board wont have, it has expo and rates, it has a beep alarm for the throttle lock and minute timer, it is seven channel with a speed selectable output on the gear channel, it is smaller, accepts a wide voltage range and it was created by one of our own! Here is an excerpt from the sketch describing the functions - // A simple seven channel PPM encoder. Six propo, one switched with servo-slow, single-channel escapement emulation mix, Vtail, Elevons, minute-minder etc // Please do not use Arduino bootloader for programming, its startup delay messes things up and can strip servo gears with some modules (eg Corona) // Connections: // Pots are wired between ground and regulated 5v from Arduino. Wipers connected as follows: // A0=aileron, A1=elevator, A2=rudder, A3=throttle, A4=aux1, A5=aux2, A6=expo, A7=rates. Always use this wiring order regardless of PPM channel order. // Ground A6 and A7 with links or Spektrum bind-plugs if rates & expo are not required. Dont leave them floating. // If fewer analogue channels are used, tie unused ones to a used one, do not leave floating. Eg on a 4ch set, tie A4 to aileron wiper, A5 to elevator wiper // Unwanted digital functions can be omitted except for button on D10 or D11 which is needed for calibrating the sticks. Omitting ch7 toggle (D12) means no range test. // Note that the DIY More ProMini Strong has annotations for D0 and D1 reversed - the pins actually number 10234567. // D0=PPM, D1=S/C escapement speed, D2=throttle reverse, D3=ch7 speed, D4&5=channel order, D6=75:25 mixer, D7=50:50 mixer, (D6 AND D7)=60:40 mixer // D8=increment minute timer, D9=throttle lock, D10=sequential s/c, D11=compound s/c, D12=ch7 toggle switch, D13=buzzer NPN base, collector to battery pos, // ... emmitter to buzzer+, buzzer- to neg (emitter follower). Parallel haptic with buzzer. Used for minute minder, inactivity timer & throttle-lock warning. // Features: // Calibration - center trims, hold either s/c button in, switch on, still holding button move all controls to extremes including auxilliary pots // Center all controls including throttle and aux pots. Release button. At this point the throttle-lock warning should chirp because the throttle is centred. // Do not switch off during calibration, the calibration values cant be saved if the set has been switched off! // Throttle response can optionally be made non-linear during calibration by 'centering' the throttle stick to say 2/3 rather than to neutral stick. // Variable expo & rates on Futaba ch1, 2 & 4, ditto JR ch2, 3 & 4. Elevon mixer on Futaba ch1 & ch2, JR ch2 & 3, 75% aileron, 25% elevator or 50:50 for V-tails // Mixer option can only be changed on power-up (avoids accidentally switching during flight). Single-channel emulation mix, compound or sequential. // Flick toggle 3x for range test. Servo reversing by holding sticks over on power up (saved to eeprom). Servo-slow on channel 7 toggle. // Auto and manual throttle-lock with warning. // Follow the story on the single-channel forum http://mode-zero.uk/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=844 // Diagram and documentation on http://www.singlechannel.co.uk see Archive page // If you use this software in whole or in part please acknowledge its source - Phil_G on most forums, [email protected] http://www.singlechannel.co.uk // Special thanks to the late Dave Burton and Mike Kitchen for their improved expo maths, and Hasi for the interrupt-driven ppm. // Thanks also to testers Ron, Shaun, Pat, Frank and Al All info is here However, you are well down the road using the existing encoder board and a soldered in Tx module so none of this is relevant. Well done on the conversion.

Thats quite a good turnout... we had 6 of the things installed locally 12 months ago and not one of them has ever turned, they are an absolute blight on the landscape in full view of my study window. I don't know why they have never been turned on but my guess would be problems connecting the eyesores to the grid out here in the sticks. Probably no government subsidies for the connection, only the installation of the towers. Corporate greed at its finest.

Several F series Futaba 'Golds' have been converted to 2.4 over on mode-zero. Mine being one of them. They tend to use one of Phil Greens encoder boards based on an arduino nano and a 2.4GHz Tx module of your choice. It looks 'busy' in there but it really isn't. Using the existing encoders as you have done is also an option providing it works and all the pots are serviceable and not noisy. The basic electronics is quite compact really as the processor 'fits' on the bottom of the Tx module, here is the bare bones before adding the stick units in a joypad type controller Happy tinkering!

I understand the technical definitions you describe but I rather think the question that was asked and the manner in which it was written cared not for the technical definitions rather it was asked as a colloquial term. ie. power as in 'is it stronger?' Like most things in modern life, the later technology provides some benefits over the older technology, but these usually come with disadvantages too, in this case, the increased 'power' requirements.( power as in current.. nothing to do with the rate at which work is done)

Well, that depends on your interpretation of 'power'. An analogue servo uses an analogue amplifier to discern the required position of the servo arm (via the feedback pot), this means as it closes in on the desired position it's output voltage falls (and thus the 'power' delivered to the motor) until it reaches the correct position. A digital servo on the other hand determines a digital value (ie between 0 and 1024 for example) of the position it requires the servo to be in and compares that to the digital value it determines from the feedback pot, it these are not the same it applies 'full power' to the motor until they are in balance. It is not quite as simple as that but that is the basic logic. This means the digital servo should have more torque driving the servo when it is moving. Does torque equal power? Depends on who you talk to!

I take that back.. there is somewhere else you might find the reason for the cheaper cost... the machining of the blade shaft! This one is going back, a 3 mm kerf is a bit out of order! VID_20240511_092340.mp4

The most likely cause of the Windows 11 refusal to load on non-compliant hardware are secure boot and TPM, both of which are quite easy to workaround. Google has plenty of articles on how to do it if you really must upgrade to Windows 11. The reason Microsoft included these requirements was to increase the level of system security so the result of by-passing them will inevitably lead to reduced security.... horses for courses!

No doubt the ability to make beveled cuts is a useful feature but I question whether the price premium is worth it. Would it not be possible to use a wedge stuck down against the fence to angle the workpiece instead of tilting the blade? As for accuracy or rather the claimed lack of accuracy of the cheap less expensive Chinese models how accurate do you need to to be? The only place I can see where cheaper materials between the two will make a difference will be in the bearings and the blade. The blade is replaceable and you would need to use it a lot for the bearings to become an issue. £36 verses £400. (Table Saw FET list price) . However, that is not a fair comparison because the Proxxon KS230 is a closer match to the Chinese offerings and that doesn't have blade tilting, so £36 (the cheapest I could find inc. delivery) verses £150 (KS230 plus shipping) No doubt also the 240v motor in the Proxxon should outlive the 12VDC 550 motor in the Chinese one but again, a 550 is ubiquitous and easy to replace if it does eventually succumb to the dust.

So.... the PCB's arrived for the airborne gps logger with a small oled display - They came 8 to a panel making them very economical (5 panels is the minimum order ~£10 ) I don't suppose I am ever going to run out of them. 🙂 After building and flashing the xiao board it came out like this - Pretty close to the intended layout If you forget to insert a card it warns you - It advises you it is awaiting a fix from the GPS - Once it knows where it is it starts recording the fixes and displays the maximum height and speed achieved - Powered by a 7.4v lipo - I have uploaded everything to my drive I should note that not all the functions of the display have been tested ( like the "can't record another track because you have 99 tracks already" but if they don't work the fix should be simple and there are comments in the sketch to help navigate it.) That's it.... I'm done.

I am currently pursuing a somewhat 'return to my roots' theme and am building a balsa and tissue model for use with an RTP pole. I intend to power it with a couple of small brushless motors, an esc or two, a micro Rx with a single servo on the elevator. Part of the fun is coming from lasering the parts from 1.5mm balsa sheet. I start with the free plan from AeroFred, I chose a Bristol Beaufighter because... why not! The workflow is - crop the formers one at a time in Adobe Acrobat, save the former as a .JPG, import that into LibreCAD and trace around the shape. Save that as a .DXF which I import into Vetric Aspire where I scale it to the size measured from the Acrobat crop, add the stringer cutouts, add the second half with the mirror function and tidy the shape up and finally save it as a .SVG which will import into LaserGRBL for cutting on a 3 Watt laser. I may be tempted to go for a stronger laser with a air pump option sometime but the balsa will all be 1.5mm. thats 1/16" to the imperialists 🙂 so I expect to get through with a couple of passes... if not....laser upgrade time!. The free plan from AeroFred The part to be worked on cropped from the plan The shape traced and the stringer locations marked Stringer cut outs added and the shape mirrored to produce a full former The file loaded into LaserGRBL ready for the cutting. It's pretty time consuming but very gratifying when you see the part releasing from the balsa plank. No plastic filament was harmed in this build 🙂

Hi all, I have finished my modifications to ‘Fanfantulipe’s’ RemoteID firmware. It has all it’s original functions comprising the French regulations for remote ID including a wifi web page for viewing on a laptop on the ground for both configuring the device, downloading the track plot data and displaying in real time the positional data. There is also a facility to transmit telemetry to a FlySky transmitter but as I don’t have a FlySky transmitter I have never enabled and tested this feature. All info for anyone interested is on My drive