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FlyinFlynn

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Everything posted by FlyinFlynn

  1. Ahhh... your 'mistake' was reading the 30Amps rating of the ESC as proper Amps and not 'Chinese Amps' which they most probably were! The normal rule of thumb is the same one as the light output values given on Chinese LED torches ie. about half. 🙂
  2. Maybe they know you have the paid for version.....Anyhow...just my personal experience.
  3. I always found NCH excessively pestered me with adverts for it's paid for offerings so I found alternate softwares from companies that didn't. They might have changed now but it was a real pain.
  4. The last time I used a covering iron it was also a travel iron for the vast majority of the job and I made a small shoe that I silver soldered onto an old soldering iron tip to get into the tight spaces that not even a pukka covering iron tip could get into.
  5. Perhaps you might like to post this on mode-zero forum, you will find plenty of info there, there is a sub-forum on modules. A Hitec spectra 2.4 Tx module will fit in your Optic 6 apparently There are several FRSKY modules available but I am unfamiliar with them. As far as Corona goes, they still offer 3 variants, a CT8F to fit a Futaba TX module socket, a CT8J to fit the JR style Tx module socket and a CT8Z which is a hack module to fit internally in a Tx without a module socket - all available from Aliexpress (other stores also). Some of the other manufacturers seem to have discontinued their modules because " they are impacting full transmitter sales"....... that is some seriously funky logic going on there. They seem to think the RF module somehow delivers the 'bells and whistles' functions of the transmitter.
  6. Closest I can get. They are scaled against the root profile so they are all the same profile. The tip profile I have is not exactly the same as the tip profile on the plan but getting eight perfectly interspaced ribs in both size and profile is beyond the means I have at my disposal. Bugs Ear.pdf
  7. Ummm In expert mode you can select a different set of settings for each model on the build plate that override the default settings. Maybe worth checking you have 'outer brim only' when right clicking the model? Other than that maybe raise an issue on https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/issues
  8. Well, it removes the old and crusty analogue components of the 20 year old existing encoder board which is usually full of potentiometers and old analogue timing components. It provides you with a couple of mixers that the old encoder may not have, it has a throttle lock which the old board wont have, it has expo and rates, it has a beep alarm for the throttle lock and minute timer, it is seven channel with a speed selectable output on the gear channel, it is smaller, accepts a wide voltage range and it was created by one of our own! Here is an excerpt from the sketch describing the functions - // A simple seven channel PPM encoder. Six propo, one switched with servo-slow, single-channel escapement emulation mix, Vtail, Elevons, minute-minder etc // Please do not use Arduino bootloader for programming, its startup delay messes things up and can strip servo gears with some modules (eg Corona) // Connections: // Pots are wired between ground and regulated 5v from Arduino. Wipers connected as follows: // A0=aileron, A1=elevator, A2=rudder, A3=throttle, A4=aux1, A5=aux2, A6=expo, A7=rates. Always use this wiring order regardless of PPM channel order. // Ground A6 and A7 with links or Spektrum bind-plugs if rates & expo are not required. Dont leave them floating. // If fewer analogue channels are used, tie unused ones to a used one, do not leave floating. Eg on a 4ch set, tie A4 to aileron wiper, A5 to elevator wiper // Unwanted digital functions can be omitted except for button on D10 or D11 which is needed for calibrating the sticks. Omitting ch7 toggle (D12) means no range test. // Note that the DIY More ProMini Strong has annotations for D0 and D1 reversed - the pins actually number 10234567. // D0=PPM, D1=S/C escapement speed, D2=throttle reverse, D3=ch7 speed, D4&5=channel order, D6=75:25 mixer, D7=50:50 mixer, (D6 AND D7)=60:40 mixer // D8=increment minute timer, D9=throttle lock, D10=sequential s/c, D11=compound s/c, D12=ch7 toggle switch, D13=buzzer NPN base, collector to battery pos, // ... emmitter to buzzer+, buzzer- to neg (emitter follower). Parallel haptic with buzzer. Used for minute minder, inactivity timer & throttle-lock warning. // Features: // Calibration - center trims, hold either s/c button in, switch on, still holding button move all controls to extremes including auxilliary pots // Center all controls including throttle and aux pots. Release button. At this point the throttle-lock warning should chirp because the throttle is centred. // Do not switch off during calibration, the calibration values cant be saved if the set has been switched off! // Throttle response can optionally be made non-linear during calibration by 'centering' the throttle stick to say 2/3 rather than to neutral stick. // Variable expo & rates on Futaba ch1, 2 & 4, ditto JR ch2, 3 & 4. Elevon mixer on Futaba ch1 & ch2, JR ch2 & 3, 75% aileron, 25% elevator or 50:50 for V-tails // Mixer option can only be changed on power-up (avoids accidentally switching during flight). Single-channel emulation mix, compound or sequential. // Flick toggle 3x for range test. Servo reversing by holding sticks over on power up (saved to eeprom). Servo-slow on channel 7 toggle. // Auto and manual throttle-lock with warning. // Follow the story on the single-channel forum http://mode-zero.uk/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=844 // Diagram and documentation on http://www.singlechannel.co.uk see Archive page // If you use this software in whole or in part please acknowledge its source - Phil_G on most forums, [email protected] http://www.singlechannel.co.uk // Special thanks to the late Dave Burton and Mike Kitchen for their improved expo maths, and Hasi for the interrupt-driven ppm. // Thanks also to testers Ron, Shaun, Pat, Frank and Al All info is here However, you are well down the road using the existing encoder board and a soldered in Tx module so none of this is relevant. Well done on the conversion.
  9. Thats quite a good turnout... we had 6 of the things installed locally 12 months ago and not one of them has ever turned, they are an absolute blight on the landscape in full view of my study window. I don't know why they have never been turned on but my guess would be problems connecting the eyesores to the grid out here in the sticks. Probably no government subsidies for the connection, only the installation of the towers. Corporate greed at its finest.
  10. Several F series Futaba 'Golds' have been converted to 2.4 over on mode-zero. Mine being one of them. They tend to use one of Phil Greens encoder boards based on an arduino nano and a 2.4GHz Tx module of your choice. It looks 'busy' in there but it really isn't. Using the existing encoders as you have done is also an option providing it works and all the pots are serviceable and not noisy. The basic electronics is quite compact really as the processor 'fits' on the bottom of the Tx module, here is the bare bones before adding the stick units in a joypad type controller Happy tinkering!
  11. I understand the technical definitions you describe but I rather think the question that was asked and the manner in which it was written cared not for the technical definitions rather it was asked as a colloquial term. ie. power as in 'is it stronger?' Like most things in modern life, the later technology provides some benefits over the older technology, but these usually come with disadvantages too, in this case, the increased 'power' requirements.( power as in current.. nothing to do with the rate at which work is done)
  12. Well, that depends on your interpretation of 'power'. An analogue servo uses an analogue amplifier to discern the required position of the servo arm (via the feedback pot), this means as it closes in on the desired position it's output voltage falls (and thus the 'power' delivered to the motor) until it reaches the correct position. A digital servo on the other hand determines a digital value (ie between 0 and 1024 for example) of the position it requires the servo to be in and compares that to the digital value it determines from the feedback pot, it these are not the same it applies 'full power' to the motor until they are in balance. It is not quite as simple as that but that is the basic logic. This means the digital servo should have more torque driving the servo when it is moving. Does torque equal power? Depends on who you talk to!
  13. I take that back.. there is somewhere else you might find the reason for the cheaper cost... the machining of the blade shaft! This one is going back, a 3 mm kerf is a bit out of order! VID_20240511_092340.mp4
  14. The most likely cause of the Windows 11 refusal to load on non-compliant hardware are secure boot and TPM, both of which are quite easy to workaround. Google has plenty of articles on how to do it if you really must upgrade to Windows 11. The reason Microsoft included these requirements was to increase the level of system security so the result of by-passing them will inevitably lead to reduced security.... horses for courses!
  15. No doubt the ability to make beveled cuts is a useful feature but I question whether the price premium is worth it. Would it not be possible to use a wedge stuck down against the fence to angle the workpiece instead of tilting the blade? As for accuracy or rather the claimed lack of accuracy of the cheap less expensive Chinese models how accurate do you need to to be? The only place I can see where cheaper materials between the two will make a difference will be in the bearings and the blade. The blade is replaceable and you would need to use it a lot for the bearings to become an issue. £36 verses £400. (Table Saw FET list price) . However, that is not a fair comparison because the Proxxon KS230 is a closer match to the Chinese offerings and that doesn't have blade tilting, so £36 (the cheapest I could find inc. delivery) verses £150 (KS230 plus shipping) No doubt also the 240v motor in the Proxxon should outlive the 12VDC 550 motor in the Chinese one but again, a 550 is ubiquitous and easy to replace if it does eventually succumb to the dust.
  16. So.... the PCB's arrived for the airborne gps logger with a small oled display - They came 8 to a panel making them very economical (5 panels is the minimum order ~£10 ) I don't suppose I am ever going to run out of them. 🙂 After building and flashing the xiao board it came out like this - Pretty close to the intended layout If you forget to insert a card it warns you - It advises you it is awaiting a fix from the GPS - Once it knows where it is it starts recording the fixes and displays the maximum height and speed achieved - Powered by a 7.4v lipo - I have uploaded everything to my drive I should note that not all the functions of the display have been tested ( like the "can't record another track because you have 99 tracks already" but if they don't work the fix should be simple and there are comments in the sketch to help navigate it.) That's it.... I'm done.
  17. I am currently pursuing a somewhat 'return to my roots' theme and am building a balsa and tissue model for use with an RTP pole. I intend to power it with a couple of small brushless motors, an esc or two, a micro Rx with a single servo on the elevator. Part of the fun is coming from lasering the parts from 1.5mm balsa sheet. I start with the free plan from AeroFred, I chose a Bristol Beaufighter because... why not! The workflow is - crop the formers one at a time in Adobe Acrobat, save the former as a .JPG, import that into LibreCAD and trace around the shape. Save that as a .DXF which I import into Vetric Aspire where I scale it to the size measured from the Acrobat crop, add the stringer cutouts, add the second half with the mirror function and tidy the shape up and finally save it as a .SVG which will import into LaserGRBL for cutting on a 3 Watt laser. I may be tempted to go for a stronger laser with a air pump option sometime but the balsa will all be 1.5mm. thats 1/16" to the imperialists 🙂 so I expect to get through with a couple of passes... if not....laser upgrade time!. The free plan from AeroFred The part to be worked on cropped from the plan The shape traced and the stringer locations marked Stringer cut outs added and the shape mirrored to produce a full former The file loaded into LaserGRBL ready for the cutting. It's pretty time consuming but very gratifying when you see the part releasing from the balsa plank. No plastic filament was harmed in this build 🙂
  18. Hi all, I have finished my modifications to ‘Fanfantulipe’s’ RemoteID firmware. It has all it’s original functions comprising the French regulations for remote ID including a wifi web page for viewing on a laptop on the ground for both configuring the device, downloading the track plot data and displaying in real time the positional data. There is also a facility to transmit telemetry to a FlySky transmitter but as I don’t have a FlySky transmitter I have never enabled and tested this feature. All info for anyone interested is on My drive
  19. Not something I have experienced UNLESS you program it with a void(loop) with nothing to slow the loop down so the uP is too busy chasing its own ar5e to listen to the UART.....then you have to force boot mode by holding down the boot switch while resetting the device....but it's not normally needed in my experience. Also don't forget to set USB CDC on boot to enabled (in tools) or else the ESP32c3 wont talk to the serial monitor either.
  20. That's ok providing you check 'the stability' at the end of a flight where you have burnt off most if not all of the fuel. It is not a good time to discover you were on the limit of aerodynamic stability when the tank was full. Retracts weight can also come into play if you have them fitted. The most sensitive time for aerodynamic stability is when you are low, slow and dirty - just the same conditions when you are on your finals. I think everyone understands the recommended CofG is only a starting point, designed to get your model flying without re-kitting itself inside the first 10 seconds of airborne flight.
  21. So... having taken a look into FS's wish list I have come up with this - I have mocked up the code to produce a max speed and max height reading that should display on a 128x64 pixel oled, looking like this I hope. I'm awaiting the PCB's and constructing one before releasing any other details. On a separate approach, I am also working on a gps logger Tx and Rx combo that will display on a ground based 2.2" display showing the TX modules current height, speed, max height and max speed based on the French RiD. Whilst ,no doubt possible, incorporating the wifi/webserver into the above unit is above my pay grade....and why re-invent the wheel? The module on the left is the transmitter in the model and the display is an ESP32 and 2.2" display in one. Just early days of the display development, it now has the max data too, along with the current lat & long so it acts as a lost model locator too! I find the GPS altitude data to be too skitish and unusable, I am working on integrating a barometric sensor into the RiD module to send data from that sensor which has, in the past, proved to be more reliable. Windy Millers data logger also uses a barometric pressure sensor to provide altitude data, presumably for the same reason. Again, awaiting the postie to deliver some goodies before I'm able to build one and test it out.
  22. Like most things electronic I'm not surprised you can't find it from the UK. Even if you did it would just be a supplier in the UK who has bought some from a the same supplier you find on the likes of Aliexpress in China and added their markup. I can't fault the delivery of items from China - especially Aliexpress. I will accept not everyone will have the same experience but I rarely have an issue and if I do Aliexpress usually side with the purchaser. I , very recently, ordered two replacement glass tubes for my desoldering gun, both arrived damaged and Aliexpress refunded me within 6 hours. As far as delivery goes, I only order from places offering 'free' shipping if you order over $10 worth... thats $10 in total, not from the same supplier - you do see the price reflects this cost and have to add stuff up but I find it usually works out cheaper in the end. Of course you need to be ordering enough stuff to make the €10 minimum but for me that is rarely a problem 🙂 I'm currently finding 10 day delivery is quite normal for me on the continent... it just gives me time to start the next project! I'm not sure it makes a difference but there are two versions of the HT1818z3G5L.. one with flash and one without. I always go for the one with flash just in case the GPS baud is stored in flash but seeing as how the firmware instructs the GPS module what rate to use at boot up it shouldn't matter if you have the non-flash version. Happy soldering!
  23. Yikes.....nearly as expensive as playing with toy planes.
  24. Ah well..... in that case it would be a much easier task to add something like a 0.91" oled display to the Xiao/HT1818 board . something like this The display has two lines of text so perhaps alternately display alt / max alt and then speed / max speed..... Of course Windy's solution is proven and 'off-the-shelf' and this one would need a bit of work and a new PCB. More tinkering methinks!
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