FlyinFlynn

Why? this is a public forum where views are freely expressed is it not? You are advocating censorship. Do you not think your post was hypocritical as you are expressing your preference that not everyone wants to see. We are already out of it, or at least quite a large part of it (remind me, what is the maximum height we are allowed to fly at and what did that height used to be 10 years ago?) As sure as night follows day there will be further restrictions because money talks and, as a tiny cohort, aeromodellers don't have enough of it to fight those influential organisations with designs on the rest of the airspace. Cold, hard facts trump head-burying every time. I agree with you, but no one claims to have more insight, it is a case of coming to a different conclusion when examining all the data available to them at the time and tying that in with historical facts. While I would agree that the cockup-ery is undoubtedly present, even commonplace, for me it simply doesn't explain away all the atrocious decisions made by the powers that be. The only thing that does explain all of those is 'vested interests' . Always follow the money. Well said John, that is the only course of action, fruitless as it will inevitably be.

Currently the time difference between someone being a conspiracy theorist to a soothsayer is about 6 months.... and shortening. I think I will bookmark this 'conversation' for review in 6 months. We will see.

I disagree with your premise that the powers that be couldn't or wouldn't impose a ban on model flying outside a national emergency. Recent history has clearly demonstrated historical values stand for nothing in todays world. Besides, if the powers that be need a national emergency in order to pursue some prescribed course of action I reckon they would just invent one (also as per recent history), they are that emboldened now.

Maybe this is a case of ebay organising fake traffic to make ebay look a larger concern than it actually is?... a bit like facebook and their bot accounts.

A couple of self tappers at the ends will hold them down 🙂. As a side note (and potentially less flippant) my pritt stick ran out yesterday so I bought two packs of some non-descript sticks so I could carry on printing parts for my new cnc - that didn't last long as all I will say is not all pritt sticks are created the same! Ah well, I suppose the missus will not be running out of paper glue any time soon and I'm off to the shops again....... Is it possible to print these parts on a raft to increase the contact area?

It is questionable what 'extra' range performance one of these elrs radios will actually provide you with when, in Europe, the claimed maximum output power achievable by this radio is restricted from 1watt (30dBm in the US) to 100mW for use in Europe. (20dBm EIRP)... the same as pretty much every other R/C Tx module.

A new rabbit burrow has opened! Enjoy the journey.

If you can't find different coloured servo connectors you could use shrink wrap...IMO slightly better than tape cuz it won't un-wrap itself.

https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-m2-screws-brass.html Hex head will be an issue though...not sure you will find any at M2. Could you use M2 threaded rod and an M2 locknut instead?

As far as slicers go I have used Simplyfy3D in the past but have now migrated somewhat into Prusaslicer which is, IMHO, better than Simplyfy3D, with the added bonus of it being free. You can use it with any printer, not just Prusa's models. I currently have 3 printers because they just seem to replicate themselves while you are not looking :-). I can't really recommend any particular model, I built my first printer from an aluminium frame kit I bought off ebay and built the printer from that thinking it would be more resilient in aluminium but the two other printers (wood and plastic) I have built since don't seem to be lacking in durability either. Best advice I could give you is decide on what size build platform you need and find something in your price range. Everyone will have a different view on workflow, I still use the now defunct but still obtainable 123DDesign for 3D design and LibreCad for 2D design (both free and at the 'easier to get into' end of the scale). Others seem to just bite the bullet and go straight to Fusion 360, there is no doubt it is a much more competent piece of software but I find it isn't intuitive for me and thus I can never get to grips with it. Horses for courses! Can't say I have had any issues with using the cheapest filament I can lay my hands on, including the stuff from Hobbyking when they have it on sale.

If you scroll down the listing page a bit you come across - I don't think Pink_Lion noticed that before deciding on a price!

I think I would want to check with the supplier before embarking on that course of action, at the moment you have legal recourse with the supplier which could well be compromised if you open the case without specific permission from the supplier. While the Tx is certainly customisable there is nothing in the manual that I can find that says "unscrew the back panel and take it off....." The problem may be something like Andy suggests but are you willing to take the chance?

I prefer the - The first drone that lands on someone's head, or takes off clutching a cat, sets the program back another decade, particularly if it is filmed. Talk about putting ideas in peoples heads! Photoshop anybody?

The main reason why some papers are not suitable for laser printers is the fusing process in a laser printer involves squashing the paper between two heated rollers to melt the toner and push it into the paper fibres, It can all go seriously wrong when the 'paper' isn't fibrous enough to absorb the liquified toner or has some exotic coating and it could well end up getting wrapped around the fuser roll which these days will probably require a replacement fuser cartridge. In my day it used to mean an engineer visit to replace the fuser, so things have moved on positively in the intervening years! You are right to be cautious.

Ex-printer engineer here. Inkjets and bubblejets (same thing really) always have, and always will, suffer from the same problem of blocked jets. The ink pathways are so small it takes a more or less continual flow of ink through them to keep the jets clear, if you leave them for any period of time they will dry out and become blocked, from there it is a hit and miss game of trying to clear them. I always opted for inkjet printers whose cartridges included a new head rather than those that had just ink in the cartridge..but they inevitably cost substantially more than an ink only cartridge.. Some printers mitigate this problem by firing the jets every so often into the waste container but this shortens the life of the ink cartridge and introduces another failure mode of a full waste cartridge/mat.. Many people go for 'continuous ink systems' which reduce the cost of the ink but does nothing for the problem of the heads drying up. There have also been hot wax printers in the periphery over the years but these suffer from other problems as well as the blocked jets issue in that they take a lot of power pre-print to melt the wax reservoir. are expensive to fill with the wax and are tricky to keep clean - the resultant prints though are usually quite good. Laser printers also produce really good prints but are expensive to operate and very expensive to repair when the inevitable problems arise. I don't think things have moved on essentially over the years, you canna break the laws of physics captain! 🙂