FlyinFlynn

For a nominal dipole antenna, which is what a typical R/C Tx antenna aspires to be, the -3dB radiated power level appears around 78 degrees from the horizontal.(that is half power at the blue lines in the elevation plane diagram) In other words, if you point your tx antenna directly at your model you will get an order of magnitude reduced RF energy arriving at the Rx, (-30dB in this case as shown at the 90 degree point in the elevation plane polar diagram.) Having two Rx antennas doesn't increase the level of power gathered from the air except when one antenna may be shielded by something metallic in the model, then the other antenna receives the energy and the model doesn't lose the signal. That is why you separate the antennas and place them in different orientations well away from anything metallic.

...plus to that, if you do point the end of your tx antenna to your model if you should suffer a range problem simply jerking your tx upwards will present a better aspect to your model and 'should' recover control...

Or your Tx for that matter.

Just found this - Can someone please help me with reprogramming a Tarot ZYXS2? It's the yellow version and does not have a usb cable as it came on a 2nd hand Heli. I bought a Bluetooth module for it as I thought but it turns out to be the ZYX 24 whereas the module for the ZYXS2 is the ZYX 12 I think. Itlinks to BT but no response from the gyro. If I knew the data port pinouts of the S2could I use a standard usb dongle to connect? The data port is 4 pin and I've worked out the first 2 pins from the left are ground then +5v. The other 2 presumably tx and Rx? I have a ft232rl and could make a lead. Will this work? Any other ideas please? on https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1512179-New-Tarot-ZYX-ZYX-S-ZYX-S2-Flybarless-System/page851#post52678671

As to the pinouts, the ground pin in the data port will be connected to the ground of any servo socket, the +ve may also be connected to the +ve of the servo output...but it might not be as the servo will be +5v and the programmer may be 3v3. As to the Tx and Rx it wont hurt if you get those backwards, it just wont work so then try swapping them over. Other than that you could open the ZZYXS2 case and have a gander, the Rx and Tx traces will normally go together to a uP of some sort whereas the +ve will go off by itself.

That looks for all the world like a standard USB-Serial adapter Maybe try something like this.

Well, changing the colour to black and adding a centre line is easy... however, someone else has already done it .https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=52469175&postcount=6 black Bugs Ear.pdf

Ahhh... your 'mistake' was reading the 30Amps rating of the ESC as proper Amps and not 'Chinese Amps' which they most probably were! The normal rule of thumb is the same one as the light output values given on Chinese LED torches ie. about half. 🙂

Maybe they know you have the paid for version.....Anyhow...just my personal experience.

I always found NCH excessively pestered me with adverts for it's paid for offerings so I found alternate softwares from companies that didn't. They might have changed now but it was a real pain.

The last time I used a covering iron it was also a travel iron for the vast majority of the job and I made a small shoe that I silver soldered onto an old soldering iron tip to get into the tight spaces that not even a pukka covering iron tip could get into.

Perhaps you might like to post this on mode-zero forum, you will find plenty of info there, there is a sub-forum on modules. A Hitec spectra 2.4 Tx module will fit in your Optic 6 apparently There are several FRSKY modules available but I am unfamiliar with them. As far as Corona goes, they still offer 3 variants, a CT8F to fit a Futaba TX module socket, a CT8J to fit the JR style Tx module socket and a CT8Z which is a hack module to fit internally in a Tx without a module socket - all available from Aliexpress (other stores also). Some of the other manufacturers seem to have discontinued their modules because " they are impacting full transmitter sales"....... that is some seriously funky logic going on there. They seem to think the RF module somehow delivers the 'bells and whistles' functions of the transmitter.

Closest I can get. They are scaled against the root profile so they are all the same profile. The tip profile I have is not exactly the same as the tip profile on the plan but getting eight perfectly interspaced ribs in both size and profile is beyond the means I have at my disposal. Bugs Ear.pdf

Ummm In expert mode you can select a different set of settings for each model on the build plate that override the default settings. Maybe worth checking you have 'outer brim only' when right clicking the model? Other than that maybe raise an issue on https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/issues

Well, it removes the old and crusty analogue components of the 20 year old existing encoder board which is usually full of potentiometers and old analogue timing components. It provides you with a couple of mixers that the old encoder may not have, it has a throttle lock which the old board wont have, it has expo and rates, it has a beep alarm for the throttle lock and minute timer, it is seven channel with a speed selectable output on the gear channel, it is smaller, accepts a wide voltage range and it was created by one of our own! Here is an excerpt from the sketch describing the functions - // A simple seven channel PPM encoder. Six propo, one switched with servo-slow, single-channel escapement emulation mix, Vtail, Elevons, minute-minder etc // Please do not use Arduino bootloader for programming, its startup delay messes things up and can strip servo gears with some modules (eg Corona) // Connections: // Pots are wired between ground and regulated 5v from Arduino. Wipers connected as follows: // A0=aileron, A1=elevator, A2=rudder, A3=throttle, A4=aux1, A5=aux2, A6=expo, A7=rates. Always use this wiring order regardless of PPM channel order. // Ground A6 and A7 with links or Spektrum bind-plugs if rates & expo are not required. Dont leave them floating. // If fewer analogue channels are used, tie unused ones to a used one, do not leave floating. Eg on a 4ch set, tie A4 to aileron wiper, A5 to elevator wiper // Unwanted digital functions can be omitted except for button on D10 or D11 which is needed for calibrating the sticks. Omitting ch7 toggle (D12) means no range test. // Note that the DIY More ProMini Strong has annotations for D0 and D1 reversed - the pins actually number 10234567. // D0=PPM, D1=S/C escapement speed, D2=throttle reverse, D3=ch7 speed, D4&5=channel order, D6=75:25 mixer, D7=50:50 mixer, (D6 AND D7)=60:40 mixer // D8=increment minute timer, D9=throttle lock, D10=sequential s/c, D11=compound s/c, D12=ch7 toggle switch, D13=buzzer NPN base, collector to battery pos, // ... emmitter to buzzer+, buzzer- to neg (emitter follower). Parallel haptic with buzzer. Used for minute minder, inactivity timer & throttle-lock warning. // Features: // Calibration - center trims, hold either s/c button in, switch on, still holding button move all controls to extremes including auxilliary pots // Center all controls including throttle and aux pots. Release button. At this point the throttle-lock warning should chirp because the throttle is centred. // Do not switch off during calibration, the calibration values cant be saved if the set has been switched off! // Throttle response can optionally be made non-linear during calibration by 'centering' the throttle stick to say 2/3 rather than to neutral stick. // Variable expo & rates on Futaba ch1, 2 & 4, ditto JR ch2, 3 & 4. Elevon mixer on Futaba ch1 & ch2, JR ch2 & 3, 75% aileron, 25% elevator or 50:50 for V-tails // Mixer option can only be changed on power-up (avoids accidentally switching during flight). Single-channel emulation mix, compound or sequential. // Flick toggle 3x for range test. Servo reversing by holding sticks over on power up (saved to eeprom). Servo-slow on channel 7 toggle. // Auto and manual throttle-lock with warning. // Follow the story on the single-channel forum http://mode-zero.uk/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=844 // Diagram and documentation on http://www.singlechannel.co.uk see Archive page // If you use this software in whole or in part please acknowledge its source - Phil_G on most forums, [email protected] http://www.singlechannel.co.uk // Special thanks to the late Dave Burton and Mike Kitchen for their improved expo maths, and Hasi for the interrupt-driven ppm. // Thanks also to testers Ron, Shaun, Pat, Frank and Al All info is here However, you are well down the road using the existing encoder board and a soldered in Tx module so none of this is relevant. Well done on the conversion.