Jonathan M Posted October 31, 2023 Author Share Posted October 31, 2023 3 minutes ago, Antony R said: I don't remember an issue with CG but it was a long time ago now, its a light structure and was very adequately powered by the 25fx, I didn't install the forward tank hatch but made f2 open and got to the tank that way, maybe saved some nose weight there? Be mindful of adding weight here and there, it soon adds up, it is a vintage style sport model not an extra. Thanks for the advice and the reminder about weight and style. A sealed tank-bay is a good idea, stronger structure for less weight and less scope for fuel residue to enter; it would also allow half an inch off the nose as the 4oz tank could then, if need be, protrude a bit aft of F2. I've gone ahead and ordered A2 plans from the local print shop. Not expensive and I've asked them to print to 50% grey so I can pencil possible mods over it more easily. Also asked them to print a mirror of the right wing sheet so I've got a separate identical plan for the left wing. I think the way this is all pointing is towards the Amelia... when one's fallen for a girl it's hard to look at anyone else! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted October 31, 2023 Share Posted October 31, 2023 Different cat https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=10497 Harry Gilkes did a few 'Cats', but this one looks about right for a 30FS. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted October 31, 2023 Author Share Posted October 31, 2023 That cat is very much in the Nigel-style! Also reminiscent somewhat of the Chilli Breeze... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted October 31, 2023 Share Posted October 31, 2023 12 hours ago, Jonathan M said: Piers, good point about an IC-specific design, although a conversion from electric isn't a real impediment if it comes to that. I saw the tiny photo of the Alley Cat on Sarik's website a bit ago but couldn't find any more images or information on it anywhere, nothing as far as I could see anywhere on here. In the end I assumed stubby nose, little or no dihedral and general Miller-ness of approach, which is fine but too little to go on. Maybe you'll finish your's sometime...? What wee beastie would you put in it? I have a new un-run OS30 FS bolted to it’s ply bulkhead, I just need to attach it to the rest of the airframe! Peter’s Alley cat was a free plan in RC Model World, I forget the year but I will dig out the article to check. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antony R Posted November 1, 2023 Share Posted November 1, 2023 All this talk of Amelia's is making me think I should build another for the spare OS26fs I've got lying about! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted November 1, 2023 Author Share Posted November 1, 2023 3 hours ago, Antony R said: All this talk of Amelia's is making me think I should build another for the spare OS26fs I've got lying about! 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comper Posted December 26, 2023 Share Posted December 26, 2023 The Goldie low wing scale ish model from the 1920s flys well on my os 30 FS. Not for the prop hangers, it’s available from Sarik hobbies 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comper Posted December 26, 2023 Share Posted December 26, 2023 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted December 26, 2023 Share Posted December 26, 2023 Jonathan, The Ben Buckle Galahad 54" could be right for your engine. Although it was designed with excessive dihedral, it doesn't have to built that way. Originally for single channel and 10 to 15 size engines a 30 would be perfect especially with mods by the original designer to flatten out the wing, adding ailerons and making the wing section semi-symmetrical. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 Thanks for the suggestion Andy. The Galahad is very cute, would definitely need building a semi-symmetrical wing with ailerons and just 1" dihedral say, but the rest of the kit would be useable as per stock. However, after a layoff of a few months (the usual life distractions!) I keep coming back to Dereck Woodward's Amelia. He apparently had a reputation for 'adding lightness' to his structures which is hugely helpful for all the good reasons, even if he overdid it sometimes - those folding wings! 😲 So I've had the plans printed and have been pencilling in mods - sheer webbing and proper D-box (not just the top sheeting), separate aileron servos in the first wing-bay, bolt on wing, U/C either clamped onto the centre section or built into the former in front of the LE, no hatch under the fuel-tank bay (quickest way to soak fuel residue into the interior), etc. Once I actually start I ought to do a separate build thread.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 Balsa all now ordered from SLEC at a shade over £50 incl delivery, which isn't too bad considering the shocking cost of everything these days, except bizarrely Oracover which seems to have dropped in price by a third?! Nothing left to do whilst waiting for the wood to arrive except run in the 30FS... 😀 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 Jonathan, A similar model to the Galahad but more scale looking. I recommend a fuselage wire mounted U/C with a cross-over style torson set-up, as used on most Boddington designs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 Thanks for the suggestion Andy - that was going to be one of my main mods, using 4mm wire and 2.25" Dubro low-bounce. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 4mm wire which is 8 gauge may be a bit heavier than you need for such a light model, I would go with 10 gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 Agree, 1/8" or 10g would be plenty. I'd use a wing mounted U/C though - just personal preference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 8g was dictated by the 4mm ID of the Dubro wheels. Alternative is JP wheels, but none of the retailers state the ID of these - 1/8" ish? Wing-mounted would be okay with me too, just a question of beefing up the CS structure instead: either one-piece V-struts as per the plan but saddled on at the front as well as the back, or single struts with torsion...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 (edited) The shiny 'new' 30 on my brand-new engine test stand assembly, two bits of 1/2" MDF screwed to a cheap workmate clone (much neater than the old fuel and diesel saturated one). Was all good to take the whole caboodle outside for a first run when the increasingly heavy dampness turned to actual drizzle! Instead of starting a new "Dereck Woodward Amelia" build thread, maybe I should ask a moderator to just change the title of this one? Edited February 6 by Jonathan M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 K+S do thin wall brass tube in short lengths, if you need to sleeve the wheels. A single torque rod on each wing is my method. As per original Chilli Breeze plan https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=13801 Your test stand is too complicated 😄 Mine just have the engine screwed direct to a piece of thick ply! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caveman Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 Nought wrong with your test stand Johnathan, snap!! GDB 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 Nice one Caveman 😍 Here's a question for the seasoned enginistas: My OS30FS has never yet been run - I bought it quite a few years ago just before they were discontinued and just kept it stored in the house. I've already had the rocker-cover off and dabbed a bit of after-run oil around the moving parts and a bit down the push-rod tubes as it was all a bit dry. Do I need to pre-oil anywhere else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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