White smears - covering

[Hoochykins]

Sorry guys, I'm asking what's already been asked but I can't find my issue.

 

I'm using blue Chinese covering - I am covering in white and blue but I am getting white smears on the blue. This is happening on parts where I am not applying any white but there is a chance there is some residue on the covering iron sock (although it only shows up towards the end of the process so it's hard a few passes of the iron).

 

I've taken an photo:

 

 

Is this likely to come off with some liquid like nail polish remover or white spirit? (Didn't want to apply something that will mean I have to redo it if it's not necessary) Or is this something to do with the temperature I'm applying with or the fact it's just cheap Chinese film?

[EvilC57]

I find that IPA (isopropyl alcohol) takes shrink covering adhesive marks off.

[Engine Doctor]

As EvilC57 says IPA or nail varnish remover , acetone or cellulose thinners wil quickly remove the smears .White spirit is unlikely to remove it . 

The smear is just the adhesive and happens all the time . Just finish covering and have clean up session. Some coverings are more prone to this than others. Our local model shop sell Chinese covering and its brilliant , shrinks well , stays tight and unlike some branded mid price range  covering isnt see through.

[leccyflyer]

As pointed out above, decent quality isoporopanol will remove those covering film adhesive marks and is relatively gentle. Good old fashioned purple methylated spirits would be my next port of call if the residue was particularly stubborn, moving on to white spirit. I'm constantly surprised at the frequent advice to use acetone, or even worse, cellulose thinners for such jobs. Personally those would be my absolute last resort solvents to let anywhere near a model which had any form of plastic covering.

[Hoochykins]

Well I have tried isopropyl alcohol and it doesn't work. It actually looks like the colour has gone out of the film and doesn't look to be anything on the surface. But annoying as it's the perfect colour but I think I'll have to buy some other stuff. Very strange.

[Hoochykins]

Swapped to Ripmax covering and the difference is night and day, keeps it colour, easy to work with, completely different.

 

The other film wasn't wrapped around a tube so was about 1/3 the thickness of normal covering and would curl back up into a tube at any opportunity, the backing was also impossible to get off without it causing wrinkles where you had to pull it so hard.

 

Back on the search for a pearl purple, I know you can get it from Oracover but at £30 I think it's a bit steep. Any other recommendations? I want a metallic/pearl purple and not a flat purple like I got in my other Ripmax roll.

[Hoochykins]

This is what I'm looking for:

 

Edited March 29 by Hoochykins

[Engine Doctor]

On 29/03/2024 at 08:59, leccyflyer said:

As pointed out above, decent quality isoporopanol will remove those covering film adhesive marks and is relatively gentle. Good old fashioned purple methylated spirits would be my next port of call if the residue was particularly stubborn, moving on to white spirit. I'm constantly surprised at the frequent advice to use acetone, or even worse, cellulose thinners for such jobs. Personally those would be my absolute last resort solvents to let anywhere near a model which had any form of plastic covering.

I have used cellulose for cleaning plastic film covering for many years with no issues or detriment to covering from Solarfilm or any of the polyester shrink films. The exception is Solartex where it can attack the proofing layer.