Building the Nijhuis Lysander

[rookie jim]

A get together would be  good idea if it could be arranged, but i think timing may be an issue. Holidays, work etc. As some of you are are much further advanced than the rest of us we may have a full house so to speak of lizzies from part built to fully built models.

 

if we do manage to arrange something are those with the finished model  willing to give a flying demo

 

 

Jim

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

After all their hard work, I wouldn't be surprised if they don't want to fly their masterpieces at all!

Edited By Peter 'Servo Scrounger' Savage on 20/03/2010 21:31:44

[Terry Whiting 1]

Peter,

 

What is you battery. 1.2V or 2.0V?   If it's a 2.0V and fully charge you could well be cooking your plugs, as I stated before, once the platinum element  plating is burnt off

thats the end of it's natural life.

 

As for my Lizzie I regard it as a bog standard build, certainly not in the masterpiece category, and will be airborne late spring.

 

Jim,

 

I agree it would be great to see all our builds together, and to meet each other personally, but in the real world it must be truely out of the question. 

This site is our world. It pulled a group of like minded guys together from the UK and  world wide.    Mario, Portugal....KiwiG, New Zealand.....Papa Canada.......Geoff, Spain.

We have become a Global Club......Long may it last

 

Terry

,  

 

 

[Reg the fix]

Hi there you guys, if anyone is looking for allen key servo screws contact Peter at RC World Ltd, he does about three different sizes

 

cheers

 

Reg 

[Tim Mackey]

As do modelfixings I believe - just be aware that the ones I have ever tried dont fit if you also want to use the servos grommet and brass bush.

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

Its a 1.25v thing, earlier I had it running without the glow on it! I put it up to full power and tweaked the needle then walked down the garden to hear how loud it was far away, then it went pop and stopped :s I am hoping it is just cause the prop came undone.

 

Just come back from the Old Warden swap meet!

 

Dad got a seafury and I got some slope soaring delta wing thing that I will probably drop off another plane or something

[Terry Whiting 1]

Peter,

NEVER "tweak" a 4st to get the last ounce of power. 

I take it this 48 is for your Lysander. Just think you were ready for your maiden,  that little tweak  could well have rekitted the model.  

 

Tweaking causes predetonation which can throw a prop., To be on the  receiving end of a prop doing 10,000 rpm  is not very nice for you or someone close at hand.

 

I think you had better get some advice from  "IC Topics" as we do not want to turn

this thread into IC problems.

 

Sorry 'moderators' If i'm speaking out of turn

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

What changing the fuel mix? how do you stop it from stalling then? Luckily it has a locking prop nut which i think stopped it from flicking the prop off.

 

I hope that is all it was and not blowing up the engine

[rookie jim]

hi all,

back in business. dressing off but thumb top still numb . but i have started again. probably shouldnt have bothered. stuck stab onto fuselage but forgot to attach control horn so will have to do it the hard way.

 

still it reminded me to fix the rudder control horns which i have now done.

 

been looking at plan for attaching tail wheel . a bit confused about the two pieces of balsa wood especially how to join them and why one is hard balsa especially as the tail wheel is attached to the softer one. i am assuming that the balsa is shaped to the outline of the fuselage but do i sheet it? i assume there is no need as it will be covered.

 

why not have one piece?

 

Jim

Edited By rookie jim on 22/03/2010 21:21:49

[Keith Dance 2]

Hi all,

About to sheet the wings. Is it possible to sheet the top and bottom with one sheet?ie one sheet for top etc with no joins. A trial fit says it will but I do not want to start only to find it will not. Help please!

[Supermario]

Hi Jim

I don't make the tail wheel suport as plan because I was afraid that in a hard

landing may be broken.

I use 6 mm plywood with side reinforcement glue on the formers and prepare to sheet

to shape all around.

You can see what I have done in a picture I posted in page 12

You see the plywood glued with the tail wheel in place.

I remember that after glue the plywood I glued two balsa blocks of 10mm each side of

the plywood from former to former and that gave me one surface more rigid and then do the sheeting in parts because is very dificult to do one piece sheeting each side.

You can see the final work in pictures I posted before.

Keith.

I'm sorry but a long time is passed after i sheet the wings panels and I don't remember

if a sheet is enough for top and bottom.

Mário

 

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Jim,

Steady with that thumb.

 

I think I remember you stating you bought a commercial tail wheel, is it one to be

screwed directly to the finished fuselsge? If it is you could use a piece of 3mm ply from F11 to 12, and a balsa packer between the ply and stabilizer then once sheeted screw on your tail wheel. Screw on tail wheels are quite adequate.

 

Mario and I have used 6mm ply because our wheels are castering which required a

bearing glued through the ply.

 

Kieth,

 

With this shape wing I wouldn't recommend it.

I sandwiched a 3mm front rib section between the main spar and false leading edge to give a better gluing area where  the sheet joins.

None of my four wing panels were removed from the building boared until the  leading edge sheeting was glued in place.

I must admit I do have my own methods of building . If you care to look at page 12

you will see my wing in it's bare bones. You can see triangular gussets glued to R9

this is because I fitted a 2mm ply dihedral brace between the main spars from R8 to R10

and passes through F9. That enabled me to finish all four panels before joining.

The long tube through the wing is a 15mm paper tube for aileron and flap servo leads.

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 23/03/2010 06:28:15

[MThemadhatter]

I like how you have done the tail wheel Supermario, I shall do mine the same way and thanks for the UC.

 

I have sorted out my servo tray and throttle servo positions.

 

 This way I have a nice smooth cable run for the throttle. Once the engine is on I can adjust the throttle arm on the carb to get the geometry right. This has also given me a bit more space for the rudder and elevator servo but not enough to put the switches here. I might make a removable plate under the hatch for these. You can see the filler drying on my sheeting, not bad for a first attempt there are only a few small gaps to fill in before I sand it all to profile.

 

Terry, I like the idea of  a hatch over the UC and I sheeted the that area with the idea that I would cut away the sheeting with a razor saw then make some light-ply formers to hold the shape. However I am not so sure that its going to be that simple now, how would you guys make a hatch here ?

[MThemadhatter]

Oh and I bought the first HS82MG servo and oh my this plane is going to be expensive on the servo's considering I need 4 more of them, which is roughly £56 

[Geoff Daunt]

Hi All,

Back to some Lizzie building,having finished off some other matters....been running in my DA 50 for the glider tug and now ready to bolt on for some trial runs.By jove it looks good up front and oodles of power.!!

Stabaliser in place and looks nice and square.

Jim, l also did my own thing for the tail wheel. I am using an off the shelf tail wheel assembly and have built up a platform from several pieces of 3 mm liteply.I will then cover with the 3mm balsa (as per the plan)and after cut through to the platform, so l can screw it in place.

It will be recessed by a few mm but at least l will have something flat to screw into.

Now trying to do some of the rear sheeting between F10 and F11.

What a job.!!!!!!

I am now on my 4th paper template trying to get the angles correct before cutting some balsa....and still not satisfied with the fit. Trying to hold a piece of paper and mark it and keep it in one place is not easy with one pair of hands.!!!

I know it's no use trying to draw from the side view on the plan becase that will not work when you have to bend around the formers

Can any of you guys offer some advice / tips how to go about this or is it a case of trial and error and loads of patience

Geoff.

 

[Supermario]

Hi Geoof

His hard for me to explain in english because I never find the correct words but I'm gonna try.

Make that part between F10 and the rear like the boat modellers do.

Cut strips of 2,5 mm balsa with a trapezoidal shape ( like 8mm going to 4 mm ) and then glue one by one. That produce a edgy surface that you can sand at last.

In the first strip you can cut the shape of the stabeliser.

The way is building from stab to wheel or sides to center.

I hope I can be helpful.

Mário

Is like stringers in fuselage but no space between them.

Edited By Supermario on 23/03/2010 15:40:02

[Terry Whiting 1]

MT....

£26 per servo....ouch.......I bought mine from BRC £6.99 each,  and I may add  are

damn good servos. They are Tower Pro MG 90s, yes metal geared, weight 13.49g with a stall rating of 2.2Kg.    Plenty powerful enough for the small control surfaces of the Lizzie.  

 

The undercarriage area I left open and sheet the remainder. I  fitted (glued) a piece of 3mm birch ply to the fuselarge box where the undercarriage would be mounted, once dry I marked the aluminium position, drilled the holes and installed captive nuts from the inside of the fuselage, then cut two formers and made the hatch.

You could still do the same.

 

Geoff.

 

The under surface between F10 and 11,  I planked with tapered strips of 3mm sheeting.

 

To get the stab profile I used a piece of serial box or srap balsa sheet. Cut the cardboard and pinned in position, from my scap box I used a piece of 6mm sheet  about 10mm wide and 30mm long, this I taped flat to the writing end of a ball point pen, lay the balsa block flat on the stabilizer follow the conture and draw you profile on the cardboard or  balsa sheet.

.

 

Mario you beat me to it.... yes that was my method also, we call it 'planking'

 

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 23/03/2010 18:10:49

[Keith Dance 2]

Thanks Terry!

Keith.

[MThemadhatter]

Terry, I have some of those in my Seagull X-ray they are ok but not quite the same consistant quality of the Hitec servo's. Having said that I was looking at some of these MG16R from the big fish. These work out at £34 so a saving of £20. I may be willing to pay that for peace of mind on my first scale build. The other thing is they are only happy at a "maximum" of 6v and I use 5cell NiMh Instant/Enloope packs in all my planes.

 

The HS82MG are £14 each (x4 for the wings) from Totem Hobbies my LHS, who I like to support and club has a discount with

Edited By MThemadhatter on 23/03/2010 22:43:08

[Papa]

Hi Guys, I hesitate to add this as I don't want to tick anyone off who has finished their models. I just came across a site in Texas with a 4 1/2" wasp radial for just under 5 pounds Sterling. It looks like it would be a perfect fit for anyone going for a more scale look.

 

http://parkflyerplastics.com/cart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=31_32

 

Jack Higgins

Toronto

 

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi there Jack,

 

I love Radial engined aircraft, and those Wasps you have found could well  be used in my next winter project, which is to be the 'Bristol Beaufighter'.

 I have just recieved the plan, and hasten to add is another Tony Nijhuis design.

I could change my Lysander radial as it's only screwed into the exhaust ring, but I think I will leave well alone.

 

 

MT,

Agree with your comment you only get what you pay for, and being  your first scale build I quite understand, but for myself I have built too many to cause me concern.  

I hope I'm not tempting providence when I say in all the years  I have flown RC which is now coming up 55 years I have honestly never suffered servo failure in flight.

I gave up bulding IC twins not through servo,  but engine failure,  now I'm electric only,I'm back into twins.    

 

Terry

[MThemadhatter]

What twins do you have/ building , I am awaiting the article in RCME about the Halifax.

 

Back to dummy radials I have found this site Vortex-Vacforms they do a 5in/127mm 9 cylinder dummy radial (RD8) which looks just the ticket for the Lizzy, shame about their payment options though.

[Geoff Daunt]

Thanks Mario and Terry,

I was trying to do it as a single piece but can see the logic of your approach and much easier to do in several sections....as always someone can always put you on the right track.!!

[Terry Whiting 1]

MT,

 

Yes RD8 looks a good choice for the Lizzie, I have in mine the DH C Beaver.

 

I have only three multi engined model at the moment .

The Grumman Albatros amphibian/flying boat ( love water plane flying).

My old Lancaster with brushed motors, but converted from Nicad to Lipo, and an own

design 60" span Messerschmitt 262A, which is powered by two Airpower 70mm fans.

 

The ME 262 is one of three own design EDF models I have built of late. The others being  the DH  Vampire, and the North American Fury FJ, the Naval version of the Sabre.

All based on the same 3s batteries and 70mm AP fans.

 

My favourite is the Vampire, it's only 40" span but is one little beaut to fly, and that tailplane being close to the thrust gives it a true scale sound.

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 24/03/2010 14:32:46

[rookie jim]

terry, mario,geoff

 

Thanks for the advice on the tail wheel. it now makes a lot more sense. I am beginning to learn that you dont have to follow the plan slavishly for everything.

 

I have now fitted the stab and fin/rudder and am waiting for the latter to set. before i touch anything. used your pin method terry and it really did help. well i suppose the proof will be in the flying( or not!!).

 

Have now fitted the control horn to the elevator and had a problem. i bought the large horn . unfortunately the elevator is exactly the same thickness as the length of the bolts so i cant attach nuts to the bolts. So i decided to cyano(Thin) in the bolts to the balsa fill of the elevator and glued the horn on as well. just hope its strong enough. Do you think it will be OK?

 

Jim