Building the Nijhuis Lysander

[MThemadhatter]

[Jonners]

Great Video, Mthemadhatter. Did you have the flaps down for most of that scale flying?

[MThemadhatter]

Yep, either mid or full flap. I use mid flap for take off and for the medium speed stuff with full flap for the slow flybys and landing. I kind of wish that I had used Mario's method of rounding the leading edge of the flaps to get even more travel out of them, say 60 degrees rather than 45. As you can see from the video even with the flaps down she comes in fast.

 

My flying notes for the Lizzi are

 

1)Take off and land straight into wind otherwise she is liable to ground loop.

2)Use the flaps, she is not nice slow with out them

3)Keep up speed on landing otherwise she will drop like a brick (see my maiden video) I can't do a three pointer with mine, she needs to be landed on main wheels.

4)Use the rudder in turns. I have 60% expo on the rudder with 15% opposite rudder to aileron mix to stop it snapping over. She will drag her tail around the turns with out it.

 

The Lizzi is one slippery model and honks around with the flaps up and more than 1\2 throttle. Putting full flap and full throttle together makes her climb like a home sick angel lol

[Jonners]

Thanks, I will pass on those notes to whoever gets to test fly mine!

[BB]

Mthemadhatter's excellent Lysander Video (embeded)

 

 

Edited By Basildon Biggles on 29/03/2011 05:07:42

[Len Martyn]

iam well into the build of the fuse; but i cant see how you can get the center line of the tank in line with the spray bar of the carb help

Len

[Hugh P]

Len, I used a Slec 9oz yellow tank in mine. It has got the center line down a bit, but not a lot. The designer TN used the the inverted SC, and has not reported any engine problems etc. I have a Perry Pump that I might fit if I get flooding problems etc. My build is a bit slow, there are some pictures on my web site www.hugho.co.uk .Of interest I have been using a Master Airscrew 11x7 three blade prop on my 5lb aerobatic Galaxy Magician, with an SC52FS (mounted vertical) and the 9oz tank. I get easily 10mins flight times with this set up, so in the Lizzie it should be just fine.

HughP

[Jonners]

Can anyone help me out with the supply of the aluminium under carriage pattern? I live in Thailand and just can't find the tools or materials.

 

'Happy to pay a fair price and delivery can be to the UK where I can pick it up on my next visit there.

 

Let me know here, or to my email: [email protected]

 

Thanks and Regards

 

Nick Johnson

[Hugh P]

Jonners

I got my aluminum localy, so I should be able to get more. Because of its size it is more expensive to post than it is to buy! I'm just hoping that the stuff I have is going to be hard enough. It took a lot of anealing to bend.

Let me know the town that you visit in the UK. If it is local to one of the areas I regualy go to I'll get you some. Ali cost is about £8 for a Metere (enough for 2 U/C ) and postage is likey to be about £12 if I can't deliver it myself.

My Lizzie is a bit slow on the build, but I'm getting there.

Regards

Hugh P

[Hugh P]

There seems to be little information on the exta fuel tank that sit's behind the pilot, so while at the Old Warden Mayfly the other day I took this shot. Hope it helps someone.

If you have a specific area of the Lizze that you need a photo of, let me know, I might just have one.

HughP

Edited By Hugh Philps on 24/05/2011 19:17:34

Edited By Hugh Philps on 24/05/2011 19:18:36

Edited By Hugh Philps on 24/05/2011 19:18:59

[Jonners]

Hi Hugh, thanks for taking the trouble to respond on this matter. Since I don't have the tooling to cut or bend the pattern anyway, I am now looking at alternatives using Meccano or bent wire (as in a similar scale Lysander plan I have - much more complicated than TN's).

 

I don't know what UK schooling is like these days, but when I went to my secondary modern school in the 60's, we had full techical drawing, metalworking and woodworking facilities and it would have been a cinch to knock this U/C out in an afternoon's "double metalwork" period. So any Dad out there with a similar problem and a son at a decent school might examine that alternative.

 

(We also learned to write, punctuate and spell properly in those days)

 

'Best,

 

Nick

[Roger Adams]

Hi guys, I'm looking for a piece of advice regarding hinging the flaps. I have been re-reading the discussion of hinging techniques on page 29 of this forum. I was wondering about the desirability (or otherwise) of hinging the flaps at the bottom. This would enable maximum flap deployment with no restriction from the hinging. However this seems so obvious I wondered why nobody had done it other than it would not be scale. Then I wondered if the gap that forms on the top of the wing when the flaps are deployed would have negative aerodynamic affects. Is anybody able to explain the aerodynamic consequences?

[MThemadhatter]

I cant exlpain the aerodynamics of this but I hinged as per plan with a slight mod. What I wish I had done was rounded the leading edge of the flap and fitted a shround on the top half, kind of like this.

 

IMHO its just as easy as the plan method, and is a lot more scale looking.

 

Have a look at Danny's thread here  at the bottom of page.

 

I have seen bottom hinged flaps on a number of ARTF's notably the new blue nose hanger 9 mustang so it must work ??

Edited By Tim Mackey - Administrator on 28/05/2011 11:37:23

[Tim Mackey]

Mad hatter PLEASE READ THIS

[Roger Adams]

Thanks for the quick response TMH. I saw it yesterday but didn't have the time to respond. (Had to go & loose a game of cricket )

 

You have persuaded me that the centre hinged method is what I should do. I have actually used this method on the elevators but found it difficult to get the radiused profile correct. Danny's technique brings a logical planning & marking process that should make it a lot easier. Annoyingly it seems so logical & sensible I can't believe I didn't think of it.

[MThemadhatter]

Glad to help, if you look way back in this thread on page 8-10 you will see Mario using this method to build his flaps and ailerons. As for shaping the LE I found a couple of things help.

 

First get yourself a set of permagrit tools if you have not got them yet, they cost but my god you will wonder how you coped with out them, espeically in this case the Internal radius one.

 

before shaping the leading edge I colour the face of it with dry marker. That way you can see where and how much you removed. Once its all gone you have a straight LE.

 

I also hold the peice upright and using a strip of sand paper wrap it around the LE and pull it back and forwards gently. This helps to give a perfect round finish, just go easy with it.

 

2p supplied.

[Roger Adams]

Hi all
I'm still plodding along with my build, I almost have a complete set of constructed wooden components. I think the only parts I have still to build are the wing struts but I am a little confused as to the best way to construct the cores of these.

The plan indicates a lite ply core but I am not sure whether it is best to cut each side as a single forked core, or whether to make the front and back cores separately ensuring the grain runs longitudinally and then join them to a single birch ply core at the under carriage end.

How have you guys who are so far ahead of me done it?

[Doug Ireland]

That's a good question Roger and one I'll be keen to see answered as i've pondered over this myself. I must admit to being a bit slow on my build of this model (over a year now) and only got as far as the fuselage and one and a half wings built.

[Roger Adams]

Answered my own question (with considerable help from MThemadhatter). Each strutt is made with 4 ply outers and a balsa core. Since the strength will come from the ply outers rather than the balsa inne,r the core can be in 2 pieces. The strength will be maintained by the birch ply inner at the lower end, to which all 4 ply outers will be bonded.

 

It's all very easy and obvious when you read the instructions properly. Hope that helps Doug.

[Terry Whiting 1]

You will find that Tony Nijuis made his struts with a 3mm Lite ply core, sandwiched

with 1.5mm balsa.

I'm sure that Tony stated the stuts were more cosmetic than being functional.

I made mine with a 2mm birch ply core, sandwiched with 2mm balsa then sanded to an aerodynamic aerofoil. Covered with self adhesive aluminium foil.

[Djay]

I have just test flown my lysander.

Had trouble taking it off at first untill I cut away some of the plastic from the bottom of the spats to allow the wheels to rotate easier, then our top flyer at our club flew it with no problems. Ít flew beautifully with only minor trim inputs.

 

A bit of a challenging build, but once assembled it is worth it.

Finished in all black solartex, as fuel proof paint is not available here in Dubai, andI had some black spectrum paint laying around.

 

regarding the previous post, the struts are functional as they are the only thing holding the wings on and stops them sliding of the wing tubes

 

Built the 72 inch lanc, now this, and just starting the Typhoon.

  

Darryl

 

 

Edited By Djay on 31/10/2011 13:21:32

Edited By Djay on 31/10/2011 13:22:01

[Djay]

Some pics of my Lysander.

 

Darryl

Edited By Djay on 31/10/2011 13:22:13

[Jonners]

Looking good. Do you have a flying video?

 

My own build is on a fresh spurt now since a recent trip to the UK enabled me to get the next batch of critical path parts and materials!

[Supermario]

Hi guys

Many time past since this thread begins, and I'm very glad that

you fellows continue it.

Congratulations Darryl.

Go on Jonners, we will wait for your Lizzie.

 

Mine flyes time to time, this last weekend in a meeting

in Sevilla - Spain.

 

Regards

 

Mário

[Djay]

Hello Jonners.

 

There was a video taken, but I have not seen it yet.

 

For info, fitted with an SC 52fs, inverted, no glow driver.

Fuel tank is the SLEC yellow 9?oz moved back aprox 1inch from firewall.

I did not fit a hatch underneath, instaed made all the cockpit floors removable, and fitted the rudder and elevator servos to a small tray which I dropped in and retained with small screws. rudder is closed loop.

throttle servo sits inside the fuse aft of the u/c bracket and protrudes through the bottom by the u/c.

The tank bay has a false floor raised aprox 1/4 inch to clear the throttle pushrod.

Canopy retained by small self tappers all round.

All works well.

The u/c was a nightmare for me, no 3mm dural/ally available so I made it from 1.5mm a/c grade ally, with reinforcment pieces at all the bends, nice and rigid but quite lightweight.

Took over a week to fit the spats and get them looking nice. I melted the abs offcuts in acetone to make a sludge which I filled in any gaps and join lines, then sanded it all flush.Pumped silicon style adhesive inbetween the u/c leg and the spats to retain them.

Made the tail cone hollow as well, and with the r/x battery just aft of the fuel tank,and r/x stuck to the base of the centre cockpit floor panel the balance is perfect with no additional weight required.

Decals from Pyramid models.

servos used in the wings are 4x spectrum A4000 micro servos, hitech HS81 for the throttle and futaba 3003 for elevator and rudder.

with flaps deployed there was no trim change at all.

Hopefully fly it myself next weekend.

Darryl