Cloud Model DH98 Mosquito

[Glenn Philbrick]

Peter,

 

Sorry to hear that your model has had an event. I am still gettting used to mine and so far have only suffered one heavy arrival which broke both props. I have since applied braking to both speed contollers and have not broken another prop yet. The problem is that pusher props are not that easy to source at the right size. The model glides for ever and appears very sensitive to elevator so I am experimenting with the Cof G and expo. Once I have that sorted I will try both props running in the same direction then I can use some cheaper bendy props. There is plenty of power so I can hand launch myself ( I am left handed so that also helps). I'm a bit concerned after reading this thread about extending the battery wires which I have done . 

 http://www.rcmf.co.uk/4um/index.php/topic,66914.0.html

However I have also done the same on my E-flite seafury and so far have had lots of flights without any problems.

I have said before that really I believe this model would be better with rudder and am thinking that maybe once I have the rest sorted out I may well modify mine to include rudder that is if it is still in one piece. Like you it looks great when flying and attracts a lot of interest at the patch.

 

Glenn

[Peter Costello]

Glenn,

I am using folding props both going in the same direction - no adverse yaw detected.  I too was worried about long battery leads but seems to be ok.  I have thought about rudder but unless you get the servo on CoG it will mean even more weight in the nose to counter.  I don't trust myself to hand launch (right handed) so am building a dolly to see if it will work.  I also need a dolly for my F16 which is pusher prop but have taken u/c off for better flying effect.

Peter

[darron moss]

Right this is gonna sound like a real dumb question but....

 

re This damn Cloud 9 Mossie, the plans / build instructions are vague to say the least and Im not sure wich way to :-

 

1:   Attach the nose cone - is it supposed to be fixed or removable? (battery removal)???

2:   Whats the best way to attach the wings to the fuselage? Through the top using the

       wing bolt (in which case does the canopy need to be removable?) or through the

       bottom of the fuselage?

3:   Anybody else have trouble matching up the plastic fuselage 'skins' with the balsa

      sides

 

Help  PWEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Edited By darron moss on 03/05/2010 16:10:54

[Peter Costello]

Darren,

 

Now over three years since I built mine but  I made the nose removable for easy battery removal.  My Mossie just fits in the car in a oner so I don't have to remove the wings but I did it from the top - which does mean the plastic fuz containing the canopy does need to come off.  I find/found it all very fiddly and if you read other posts in this thread just about everybody dislikes the way the plastic and balsa fit together. 

You are right, the plans are more than a bit vague in places - I also had some trouble as this was my first non ARTF - so had little/no building experience.

Keep going - it is worth it in the end - she flies well and looks great in the air.

Peter

[Glenn Philbrick]

Hi Darren.

 

I made my wing removable and put the bolt through the bottom of the fus this way you will not have to make the cockpit removable. The nose cone I did make removable so that I can get my batteries in and out without having to strip the model.I used magnets to hold in on and the plastic tubes as shown on the plan to locate it . I aslo attached the reciever to the wing so all I have to do is to connect up the elevator, the speed controllers and wing servos stay plugged in. As for fitting the fus skins then just take your time do not cut away too much of the plastic until you have a good fit, then I fixed it with thick cyano once I had it in place,then ran along the joint with thin cyano to ensure good coverage. I did induce a twist when I fitted the top as I had cut too much off, but managed to correct it when fitting the bottom. I hope to post some flying photos of mine soon. It does fly well you will not be dissapointed when completed. Let me know if I can be of help, I could take some photos if that is any help to you. The instructions are not the best. i am thinking of buying another set of nacelles and fitting retracts and slightly higher power motors.

 

Glenn 

[Glenn Philbrick]

At last I have been able to get our tame photographer together with some decent flying weather, attached is a photo of my Mossie to wet your appetite. I've given up on contra rotating props as I broke too many on landing and it was always the pusher that broke. I can't say I've noticed the differance so would now ignore this advice. I still break the odd prop and it does not make any differance with brake or not, but I've now stopped using ASP and the cheaper bendier props seam to last much better.

[Paddy Fidling]

Wow, She looks stunning Glenn!

 

Sorry to hear of your misfortune Peter.

 

Paddy

[Peter Costello]

Finally managed to get act together and after fitting new motor mounts and motors and repair all damage and fitted new (slightly larger pitch) folding props got it in the air last night for two flights.  Well worth the effort.  She may not look too pretty on the ground (I am not great at hiding repairs/paint job etc) but you can't see that detail in the air - t'riffic - my Katana now has a serious rival.

Hope all the rest of you are up and flying with yours by now.  If not - keep at it - well worth the wait/work.

Peter

[eddie frudenberg]

Hi guys,

 

I started building one of these mozzies last year.  eventually it was almost finished but flyable.  When i did fly it I was put off by the need for a load and I mean a load of lead in the nose.  I have flown it about 10 times now in various states of modification .  But the fact remains getting a useable c of g is not easy.  I did fly it with no lead and it prop hanged ok but not much else.  With the ballast in you just feel all the power and lift is being wasted.  I wish I never bought it and wasted my time building it.  I used two esc, two brushless , carbon folding props and one 2.200 3 cell lipo.  2.4ghz.  I flew again today and I expect I will continue to throw time at it, in the hope one day it delivers.

[Glenn Philbrick]

Hi Eddie,

 

Sorry to hear that you are having problems balancing your mossie. As you can see I have built and flown mine and am very pleased with the result. I am even thinking that I might build another but this time includ rudder and retracts to add to  the flying. I had to use a small amount of lead to get the balance right but no more than  a few ounces in each nacelle. I am using two 2200 battery packs which I have mounted as far forward as possible, they protrude into the nose canopy by about an inch but no more. This could be the main differance between yours and mine, I have converted the need for lead into extra flying time by doubling the capacity of the cells. If you think about it the model is designed for nicads and brushed motors which are going to be heavy so I was not surprised to see the need for extra wieght in the nose, but there is still plenty of power as I think overall the model with brushless is still lighter.

 

 

 

Glenn

[Glenn Philbrick]

Hi Eddie,

 

Sorry to hear that you are having problems balancing your mossie. As you can see I have built and flown mine and am very pleased with the result. I am even thinking that I might build another but this time includ rudder and retracts to add to  the flying. I had to use a small amount of lead to get the balance right but no more than  a few ounces in each nacelle. I am using two 2200 battery packs which I have mounted as far forward as possible, they protrude into the nose canopy by about an inch but no more. This could be the main differance between yours and mine, I have converted the need for lead into extra flying time by doubling the capacity of the cells. If you think about it the model is designed for nicads and brushed motors which are going to be heavy so I was not surprised to see the need for extra wieght in the nose, but there is still plenty of power as I think overall the model with brushless is still lighter.

 

 

 

Glenn

[Peter Costello]

Hi Eddie,

Sorry you're having trouble.  I didn't find the build easy and some three years down the road the glue is beginning to give way along the fuz where plasic meets (but only just) the wood.  I fly on a 4000 3S battery that fits beatifully (width wise) and have it all the way up front into the nose.  I have also had to add 3oz of lead to get the CoG right but with two 250w motors she flies really well for about an eight minute flight. Not overpowered so doesn't get "over scale".  She is a bit of a brick and lands quite hard - which doesn't help the delicate parts of the fuz (currently in for repairs to said parts!)

She is still beautiful in the air and I think is worth the effort.

Peter

[Peter Gascoine]

In 50 years of aeromodelling this model is possibly the one I have enjoyed the least to build. The problem revolves around the vac formed plastic parts that are poor fits and are also difficult to clamp when gluing. I previously built the larger of the two Tony Nihjuis Mosquitos, all wood, everything fitted and it flew well on electric power. Any feedback on flying from others?

[Glenn Philbrick]

Hello Peter.

This is not an easy kit to build so I can understand your frustration. I have however built two of these, my first one suffered radio problems. The second I built I thought as well as the first but included a rudder. However it does not fly anywhere near as well as the first, it is very responsive to the elevator and to try to fly it level is a real challenge. It is still in one piece however and I will persevere with it.

Glenn

[MikeS]

Doug. On my P68C Twin. I fly it on two electric motors. When I got the plane it was fitted with two 480 can motors, I replaced these with brushless motors which required a little thinking on my part to fit them in the cowls and hide the esc also on the cowls plus allow air to cool them.

One pusher and one tractor prop are fitted. I have an esc for each motor which are connected via a y lead. One of the esc's has its red power wire taped off at the servo plug, which already been suggested.

I run the tractor prop motor in normal direction and the pusher prop runs in the reverse direction. First of all it is scale to the P68C and the DH98 and again as suggested the model tracks straight due to the props equalling out the torq effect on each other.

I brought my motors and esc from BRC Hobbies for 26 notes a set,

The P68C weights in at around 3.5lbs and is 58" wing span. I fly it on 3s lipos. A 2200 gives me about five minutes flight time of mixed throttle.

The motors are A2212-10T which run at 1400kv, 16Amp and run at about 170watts on a 7x5 prop per motor. The ESC are BRC branded but are the same as the wasp brands. They are 28amps.

So two motors work out at about 340 watts so it works out at about 100 watts per pound. This is about right for this size of aircraft and gives power in reserve

Mike

Edited By MikeS on 20/12/2012 18:57:03