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Spraying onto solartex


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I have just finished spraying the under fuselage colour onto an airframe using cellulose spraypaint (i assume it is cellulose as it says to use cellulose thinners for clean up). How long is it recommended to leave it before masking up on top of that colour? 24 hours?....Longer?
 
I was going to go for 24 hrs, but don't want to spoil the ship for a ha'perth of tar so to speak...... or to put it another way, because I'm an impatient person and cant wait to see how it turns out
Anybody have any experience of  the above, cos I'd welcome the advice. 
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The difficulty spraying onto masked Solartex is paint creeping under the tape due to its texture.  To stop this, you can spray a light coat of the same colour that you've just masked off, let it dry and then spray the new colour over it.  Any creep will then be of the first colour and you should get a sharp line when you remove the tape.
 
The problem with low tack tape is getting it to stick properly!  What you do need to do is to remove ANY masking tape in good time.  Different tapes specify a maximum usage time - after which the tape tends to stick BETTER, leading to paint removal when it's taken off.
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Yeah, I know the trick regarding paint creep and use it a lot when spraying plastic kits (airfix). I normally use tamiya tape because of its razor cut edge, that and it doesn't seem to lift paint at all. I've used it on freshly sprayed acrylics that are only 30mins to 1 hour dry and it doesn't lift those.  I think, the best bet is to try it tomorrow on an inconspicuous area. As to leaving it on, I normally lift masking tape straight after the last coat and with these cellulose paints, I think the general idea is to lay each coat on top of the last just after it has flashed off, i.e nearly wet on wet. So, the tape will only be on about an hour at most. 
This is the problem, its the paint which is relatively new to me, not the techniques.  I guess taking it steady and laying on thin coats, and taking the tape off, pulling away from the wet line will prob work best. As for the tape lifting the paint, a small test tomorrow will tell........ I'll post back with results, good or bad!! Maybe it'll help someone else out there if they attempt the same
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hi tony
mite be worth searching the internet for the makers of the paint and download the data sheet for the product! this will give you drying and overcoat times. as i know from my job, industrial paint sprayer, some single pack paints react with themselves if overcoated within certain times, not all do but its better to be safe than sorry. i may be wrong as i mainly use 2k paints but once again better to be safe than sorry.
garny

Edited By garny on 25/10/2009 23:27:51

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Hehehe....... Dont be silly Garny, that would have been the sensible thing to do , luckily though, the spraying of the first colour went very well doing wet on wet and as of now 07:30 this morning, I've had a look and the finish is really nice!!  Lets hope the second colour and masking goes as well
 
Thanks so far to everyone who has dropped in with advice. it really is appreciated  I'll keep you all posted as to the final result, with a pic of the final finished model if it looks at all presentable...............
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  • 2 years later...
OOO CRUEL, i like it, we leave celly overnight beifre masking, never had any trouble, a trick we have learnt with masking, is to put tape onto a clean sheet of glass--we actually used a glass coffe table, firm it down, then cut up the middle with a sharp knife, this gives 2 crisp, clean egdes, it also removes some of the stickiness of the tape, thinner pieces go round corners better too,
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