Solarfilm vs. Paint

[Simon Turner]

I've had a look through the forum and couldn't see anything around this topic but apologies if it's been asked and answered before.

 

I just wanted to know what the general feelings were for using solarfilm instead of paint on solid fuselages.  I know solarfilm probably hides a multitude of sins that a paint wouldn't but you still need a reasonable finish and it's hard to apply (well I think so), plus I'm sure it's heavier.

 

Does this boil down to personal opinion or is there something I'm missing.

 

Cheers Simon 

[TonyS]

Hi Simon,

I've used Solarfilm on couple of models and I found it simple to use and the finish is, well, perfect unlike paint. I doubt that the weight difference between this and paint is anything to be concerned about - if the model is that weight sensitive I'd be amazed.

Some threads on the forum have shown that not everyone finds it easy to apply.

The only thing to say here is get the iron temperature right and apply it with confidence - trust it will work - it does. Thousands of modellers can't be wrong!

There's been a lot of discussion about whether in the cases where people have had problems it was simply a bad batch or whether alternatives are better - Profilm etc etc.

It's pretty much down to personal taste I guess.

I've read a couple of build blogs where chaps had used Solartex on 'vintage' model designs and I'm determined to build one and use this as a covering - looks great.

 Remember that you can match film with paint and self-adhesive trim in identical colours - this gives you lots of options, particularly if you're covering the wings etc with film.

Hope this is of some use.

Tony 

[Simon Turner]

Thanks Tony, I think I will just keep practising.  I agree the finish is probably better with film and it's definitely quicker but does it improve flight?  I've read articles where people have covered with film and then painted, is this just to reduce work and get a good finish or is it for better protection of wood and better streamlining?

[Ernie]

Hi Simon,

For the ultimate perfect finish, I'd use paint. To achieve this, you need bags of patience, and high level of craftsmanship on the substructure. You also need to fill, prime, and build up several undercoats. The weight build up does not need to be great, because most of the paint is getting sanded off, as imperfections are filled

Re solarfilm, I think profilm is better, It is more forgiving re. iron temperature, and has a very high shrinkage, but, it is difficult to hide the seams, and no matter what the ads say, I've yet to find a film that does not bubble in the sun

I don't believe that at model size, it makes any differenco to performance. also, It is difficult to paint over any film, because paint does not want to stick to a shiny surface.

On the other hand, solartex is an excellent way to simulate fabric covering. It is  doddle to paint

 

ernie

 

[TonyS]

I would say, in deference to craftsmen builders, that knowing the model has to look good painted will focus your attentions when it comes to the build. As I've recently found out there's no substitute for building well - it is after all, the foundation for all that follows on.

My latest build - the Yak 23 - had a planked fuselage which has been sanded, filled, sanded, glassed, filled, painted, sanded etc etc etc. There were times when I'd wished I'd spent an extra half an hour when shaping the planking .....

On a slightly different note the Model Lite filler was superb in correcting the errors. 

Overall though, even the very best painting job will struggle to get the absolutely perfect gloss finish of film... 

[kc]

Solartex is a bit easier to use than Solarfilm. Also Solarspan is a little bit easier.

However do not ignore traditional tissue or nylon for a paint finish on fuselages.  Tissue or nylon applied wet clings like a magnet and then is doped whilst wet.  Sounds wrong but it works!

Edited By kc on 22/11/2009 13:03:17

[Simon Turner]

Thanks Ernie & thanks again Tony.  I have to say Ernie has nailed it for me, hard work and paint is the answer for me, my latest build (a Fournier) will be covered by solarfilm, mainly because I have already bought the roll.  I feel an airbrush purchase is on the cards, I will have to fill out a request form to my financial director (her who must be obeyed) although she did want to know what I wanted for christmas, a badger 150 and a small compressor will do nicely.

 

thanks again guys

 

Simon 

[Simon Turner]

Hi kc,, I remember tissue & dope well, my Dad used to use this on his models (back in the day).  Very messy, very smelly but you are right it does the job very well and if i remember correctly my Dad's models had amazing paint finishes.

 

Simon 

[Ernie]

Hi again, 

Re a fine finish, I reckon it can be summed up as "the quality of each stage, depends on the one before" eg final paint finish depends on undercoats etc, undercoats depend on quality of sheeting, this in turn depends on substructure, which depends on cutting out, which depends on wood selection, if you all sort of seee what I mean

ernie

[Kelly]

Those were the days, floating down stairs  after a afternoon with the old tissue and dope,in a less than well ventilated bedroom .

 

We built models and got high in more ways than one  . 

[Colin Bernard]

For some reason the fairer sex seems to have an aversion to the sweet smell of cellulose dope or banana oil and I was forever banned to the garden when finishing my models in my youth so the appearance of 'Monokote' and 'Solarfilm' was very welcome.

Certainly a nylon/dope/paint finish cannot be beaten for strength and the occasional control-liner I still build to go with my aging Frog 150 is always finished this way, resulting in a ding-proof wing. BUT as has been said earlier an exhibition finish is only obtained after a lot of hard work, and for me, the advantages of using film have far outweighed the advantages of the traditional approach.

With film I can work inside and produce something looking quite good in a fairiy short space of time without upsetting the boss with 'horrible' smells.

The key disadvantage is that over a long period (> 1 year) I find the film relaxes and needs another application of gentle heat to tauten it again. 

Of course the film is easier to puncture on an open structure, but the counter is that it is also easier to patch and certainly with Solarfilm can usually be done with little sign of the repair.

As to painting, I have only used this for additional decoration - flashes, roundels etc. Never as a need to improve the surface itself.

Finally once you learn the knack then I find Solarfilm very easy to apply. I think the key thing is getting the iron to the right temperature as per the instruction leaflet, plus use the right tools! (Invest in a film iron and heat gun - well worth it!)

[kc]

Solarfilms  demonstrator used to say ( whilst demonstrating Solarfilm at the old Sandown Show )  that too much heat was the cause of slackening in use, and for this reason he did not recommend using heat guns!   He used just an iron but carefully set the temperature with a thermometer or a sample of 'film. It's on the instruction label.

Edited By kc on 26/11/2009 12:11:09

[Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator]

I'd forgotten the female reaction to dope. Curious isn't it? I know you should always used in a well ventilated space etc. But I actually used to quite like the smell and miss it!

 

In fact I am of the view that smell is a very important part of modelling. Think of the smell of glow engine exhaust, newly mown grass, dope, paint thinners, fresh balsa shavings, fibreglass resin, even epoxy! (The H&S boys are going to love this!).

 

They are the smells of modelling - funnily, in my experience, women don't like any of them - makes me want to rush into the workshop!

 

BEB

[Peter Wood 4]

I agree that tissue/nylon and dope followed by sanding sealer is a great way to prepare a wooden surface for painting. BUT you then have to be very careful about the choice of paints. Either you stick with celluse based paints and a suitable fuel proofer such as Tuf cote or you use  a different paint type and avoid cellulose paint like the plague afterwards. That includes paints thinned with cellulose thinners otherwise you will end up with orange peel texture. For example I spent a long time preparing a balsa wing with tissue and dope before a fancy spray paint job with Halford car paints. Beautiful. Then I fuelproofed it all with sprayed on Tufcote thinned with cellose thinners. Disaster!!

After several such disasters I find paint matching just too confusing and stick to film most of the time.

[Ernie]

Hi Guys, 

KC is right.

My understanding is that if you use a temperature of say 280° to shrink the film, then if you need to tighten it at a future date, you need to use a higher temperature. This becomes difficult with a heat gun, there is always the temptation to up the degrees, and of course there is not much control of the temperature

 

Re smells, women certainly dont like them, but, I've got to put up with nail varnish remover,

 

ernie

[BB]

Ive just starte to build a Chriss Foo Acrowot.  They state that the plane on the box was doped & finished with acrylic paints.  The build instructions also state that it recommended a film OR dope&finnish on the plane..

 

BB

[Colin Bernard]

The technique I use with a heat gun is to actually start using it from some distance away and then slowly bring it closer to the model until you can see the Solarfilm starting to tighten. This gives you a fair degree of control over the temperature at the same time allowing you to quickly shrink a large wing.

I agree that blasting the wing with heat at close quarters is not the way to go!