Nylon covering

[Tony Banfield]

I am just about to begin covering the new creation with nylon.  I have used nylon many times in the past and have used balsa cement as the fixing medium.  However, it is now practically impossible to source balsa cement so I am going to have to use something else.  I was toying with the idea of using diluted PVA brushed ono the structure but I'M not sure that this would work as I don't know if it would have "grabbed" sufficiently before the damp nylon had returned to its dry state.  Does anybody out there have any suggestions/opinions?

[Bert]

Tony

 

I have used unthinned clear dope in the past with success.

 

I put two coats of dope on the the bare frame and allow to dry.

 

Cut the nylon to size, dip it in water and squeeze it out. Then apply to the frame with dope. When the nylon is dry, two more coats of 50/50 dope and fuelproofer to finish.

 

Balsa cement can be obtained HERE

 

Bert

Edited By Bert on 21/01/2010 10:12:58

[ken anderson.]

hello tony-dont know if you have considered any of the 'iron' on coverings---if you are after the material look why not try solartex.......or litespan.......both will save you a lot of effort and give you the result i think you'll be after using nylon...........

 

 ken anderson.........ne 1....

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

30 odd years ago (which I find horribly hard to believe) I covered the tail components of a full size V tail glider (very similar to a large pair of model wings) with nylon (Dacron?) using verbal instructions from a BGA inspector (and licenced aircraft airframe inspector) and the fixing was done purely with dope - no stitching involved.

 

I doped the airframe first, then applied the fabric using dope through it.  I can't recall whether I applied the covering damp or dry but I'm sure it wasn't heat shrunk. I know that I didn't have any problem with the dope letting go while shrinking the covering and the job passed inspection when I returned them to him before painting.

 

EDIT Sorry Bert - I was composing this reply while you posted much the same advice!

Edited By Martin Harris on 21/01/2010 10:32:15

[Guest]

Tony,

i used balsaloc to put on 100% polyester dress lining as a covering.

 

This allows you to put material on dry and stretch it at same time using the usual solarspn/solartex hot iron technique.

 

I have seen somewhere that thinned PVA works just the same.

 

I trhen gave the stuck down material a quick coat of 100% dope to seal that in as the trial covering I did , thinned dope seemed to slacken the balsaloc.

 

I then coated material with 50/50 dope/thinners to tighten and weatherproof.  In the case of the polyester which had a tight weave - that only needed 2 coats.  Not fuel proof of course - byt if electric - then that doesnt matter

 

The dress lining has already been shrunk when bought but dope shrinks it further and there will be a little bit more shrink running the covering iron over it.  But it is better to get material on tight , which balsaloc enables with heat.

 

click on my name / photos and you will see  pictures of a finished wing

 

I would expect similar with nylon - but not sure on application of heat to wet nylon during sticking process.  work with dry ??

 

hope this is of use

 

john

Edited By John Laird on 21/01/2010 10:38:18

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

Ken,

 

I only used nylon once on a model but it's incredibly durable and adds massive strength to the structure which may be the reason for Tony's choice?

 

It was on my first (successful) trainer (a Lumpers if anyone remembers them) which was impacted into the ground at a variety of angles while I was learning by the transmitter wrestling method and merely rattled a little more after each incident!

[Myron Beaumont]

I have Never wet nylon before covering ! It shrinks beautifully with dope .No probs .Just use dope to stick it on & then use 50/50 to brush with .

(Old combat wing flier)

[Tony Banfield]

Thank you gentlemen for your prompt and informative replies.  I have used heatshrink/iron on covering many times in the past and they certainly produce the goods initially.  However, I have found that they lose their tautnes quite quickly and do little to enhance the model's strength.  Nylon, on the other hand, is fantastically strong and never loses its tension once doped and fuel proofed.  It is more hassle to apply but more than makes up for it in strength and durability.  I have to admit one has to be careful not to allow it to warp or distort the structure though.

[mal brewer]

  Hello Tony, Bert describes the correct method of applying nylon covering to a model,the only thing I would add to his post is that you give the doped airframe a rub-down with wet & dry or sandpaper before covering to flatten the grain that has been raised by the application of dope.The nylon will require approx. three coats of dope to seal the weave,fantastic streMal.ngth,it will outlast the model.........................................

[Bert]

Posted by mal brewer on 21/01/2010 11:29:46:

  fantastic strength,it will outlast the model.........................................

 

And on terminal impact becomes a handy bag in which to take the bits home

[Ultymate]

Tony you've already alluded to it but do be careful as nylon will readily induce warps in lighter weight structures. I used to use it all the time in control line combat models which are not fragile structures

[kc]

Applying nylon wet is a good way, it sticks to the airframe like a wet T sheet to........

It is doped whilst still wet.   Yes that is right , the dope evaporates the water.

 

It is also a good way to re-cover old models because the doped nylon sticks to oily wood when heat shrink would draw up more oil.  Obviously remove as much oil as possible first using talcum, then tissues heated to draw out oil.