Hamish

You will have no problems with this shop. It is a family run with Carlo, who designed the Maricado, still in the shop but I suspect taking more of a back seat. Dealt with them over the years and never disappointed. If you need a chat with somebody that understands what they are talking about then this is the place to go.

You will have no problems with this shop. It is a family run with Carlo, who designed the Maricado, still in the shop but I suspect taking more of a back seat. Dealt with them over the years and never disappointed. If you need a chat with somebody that understands what they are talking about then this is the place to go.

Damp meter, Damp meter, Damp meter. You need to take a close inspection before considering buying. Dampness may well be a reason why it is such a bargain?

Why is it assumed that low cost Rxs are the reason for incidents. I stupidly lost 3 models until I realised that my Spectrum Rx was the common factor. Subsequently use the Orange Rx with satellite and have had no problems.  If you are considering the value of the model the deciding factor to the Rx you fit, you are way out. Priority should be safety and the consequence of loosing control. I am fortunate I am out in the sticks and if I did loose a model then it would cause little damage. Flying in a more Urban environment may require a look at the Rx but only experience of the equipment would be a deciding factor.

A plan of the Algebra can be obtained from this site through My Hobby Store. I picked up old 800 and 1000 Algebra's. I converted the 1000 to electric and it was a dream to fly. I took loads of lead out the front and even with a Turnigy 3540 still had to put lead in. Unfortunately due to my inexperience I gradually destroyed the fuz. I then made a mould and a resulting fibreglass fuz. First flight I tip stalled and damaged the wing so the model was laid aside. An incident with another glider made me check the CoG of the Algebra which I found to be way out. Got the plans from mentioned site and cut a few ribs to repair wing. Had the model out today and it is a dream to fly.  The moving "elevator", for want of the correct description, is shaped like a rib, but upside down which I assume causes lift but as downward force at the rear of the model, at least that is what is shown on the drawings. Whilst this is shown on the drawing it does not appear to matter as the original builder of this model made two identical halve which means one side pulls up and the other down. As I said, it is a dream to fly and as I now have a mould and drawing, so I may treat this as a winter project, alas one of the many

You could get an Orange 6ch Rx and satellite, which are cheap as chips, and that will resolve your flap problem. Use this set-up in several models with my Dx6i.Edited By Hamish on 10/10/2011 21:11:45

FB3. Thanks for correcting me. It is Carlos and he still takes an active part in Marionville Models. And yes, the model was named using his children's names. Unfortunately my original Maricardo is still in bits needing a rebuild ie new wing etc, but there is no way I will bin it, just need to sort out my priorities and get on with it.

A bit confused here. Really good looking model but it looks nothing like the Maricardo I have. Has there been a change in the plans from Ricardo's original?

Not sure if it is good practice but I made a fibreglass fuz for my Algebra 3m which I had copied from an original glider only fuz that I had managed to destroy. The Motor mount at the front of the fuz has extra holes to allow air in and cool the Turnigy outrunner. In addition I drilled two holes in the prop cowl and backplate to allow air through. Appears to work as ESC and battery get mildly warm and that's with a current of about 40+ amps. The motor run is normally about 30secs

You can scratch build if your keen. Have just got a set of plans from Hobby Store for the 3m version. I believe the fuz is identical, the wing tips are the same, so its only modifying the wing inners to come down to a 2.5. Converted my 3m to electric and after demolishing the fuz I made a fibreglass fuz and then damaged the wing so bought the plans. Repaired wing and model is a dream to fly.   Followed recently on ebay a 3m which had been convert to electric with the wing built with flaps and ailerons and sold for just over £100, a steal. This will be my next project once the numerous others are finished., look for an updated in a couple of years!

I have 3 Satios, a 40. 45S and an 80, all old engines. I find they are very critical of tappet clearance and when the are out they do not run that well. Not sure about white smoke though. Needle tends to be about 2 1/4 turns. Nice sounding and good engine.

"The difference is that in France, until 2012, only the lower half of the allocated 2.4Ghz band can be used outdoors. This is because there are some military systems using the upper part of the band until next year, when the rest of the band will be available to French users." OOH. That explains why the military jet above me was doing loops! Used my Dx6i in France this year and had noticed a power setting to change when over there but left alone. At least I no now.

Collected an old Fleet Finch bi-plane today that has a brand new MDS 52 fitted. Might be a good engine, but this type of model must have 4//// to give it the authentic noise. Have an ASP61 which will fit in nicely. It's not all about power and hopefully with the ASP I will have the same power but the right noise.

Disappointed at your loss, however am concerned that you "shut off the tx" and then went to recover model. Is this the correct proceedure?

Just purchased a Pretty and am disappointed with flying characteristics and quality of build. I also have an eHawk 1500 which is the far better model.  Been up slopes a few time but age is catching up and it can be a bit of a toil but the scenery up here in gods country makes it worth while.

Come on Pete. Look at the up and coming talent and not the has been's favoured by the commentators. When he has the same machinery as them Paul Di Resta will leave them in his wake. Doing a great job just now so wait and see. Go Paul! Enjoy Barca Hamish

The prop should be a good fit on the engine shaft. Adjust prop on shaft so that prop is about 25 to 1 when at full compression.(Plug fitted). Hold prop and gently tighten prop nut and the prop will grip and then really tighten up. If fitting a spinner this should not touch the prop and you may need to trim a bit. Hope this helps.

Hello Håkan. I damaged a pot on my DX6i and asked Horizon for a replacement who stated " it would have to come in for inspection, repair and return" Cost about £8 to post. Report on return indicated "replace and re-calibrate" which suggests its not so straight forward although worth a try if you can get the pot. I have found that the service provided by Horizon excellent as they appear not to charge for repairs so am a bit disappointed with the service you have had

From the SAA Safety Code  " Do not hold the model nose-up with the propeller at head height and open the throttle as everybody in the field is then in line with the propeller" 45 degrees is the angle.

I have used cellulose thinners with no problems. Paint needs a good stir before mixing and then I add about 30% thinners.

Gosh Ken, you have got me worried. I can assure you I have not yet started to wearing lipstick and painting my nails. If I get the "Hamish's Pretty" I will be providing a pair of specs.

Hopefully Bill you will have a charger. I use this one GT Power and in addtion a 12 volt supply, which can be a car battery. I charge my new lipos for the first few charges at 1C, which would be 1.8A or less for a 1800mA Lipo. You will also need to ensure the battery has the same connection as your ESC and charger. I have standardised on deans type connector but there are others. Edit  I have used the 1800   Loong Max and have been delighted with there performance as they appear to go on forever.  I consider I have had the equivalent of at least three galllons of glow fuel out of them and they still go on and on. Edited By Hamish on 14/04/2011 22:35:58

Pick up Pretty from LMS today. Nice looking model but found the folowing Covering has bubbles which I have taken out with iron.There is a seam where the two halves of the Fuz have been joined. Will paint to blend in. Motor wires are hot glued to Fuz so should not chaff with motor. Fitted plug to ESC and ran motor up. 20Amps on Wattmeter and the ESC has 12A marked on it???? Should not take to long to fit out, but no doubt I will get diverted elsewhere.

As David has said an 1800mA Lipo was used in the review.  The battery will not overpower the ESC provided it is a 3S or 11.1 volts battery. The greater the capacity of the battery, say 2300mA, means you can fly longer but it is heavier and bigger.

The size of the battery does not matter provided it is bigger than the current required, The ESC must be greater than the current required by the motor. The larger the capacity of the battery means the longer you can fly, however there is a weight penalty.  Unplugging the BEC from the Rx only removes power from the Rx and the ESC/BEC will still draw power. At the end of a flight it is normal practise to disconnect the Lipo.  Lipos should always be removed from the model when being charged. It is possible for a Lipo to go on fire and then if in the model you would have a serious problem.