David P Williams

Yes me too. The other advantage (or disadvantage when you come to pack it away) is that all the overspray seems magically attracted to the walls.

Amazingly, I was awake when I read it ?

The story on Janice Long said Keith Chegwin was her brother, but he died in 2017

I’ve used lots of different servos rated 6V with 2s LiFe and they’ve all been fine, no BECs or diodes needed

Thanks Chris, good tip

Now I’ve done more measuring and faffing with cardboard templates I think a cut’n’shut might do the trick.

Yes I think hacking the cowl around and patching it up is the first go, and then possibly using it to make a mould. I need to make it a two piece affair anyway or I won’t be able to fit it. Morris at Morris Mini Motors has confirmed I can cut down the exhaust headers by 15mm to move the collector ring closer to the cylinders for a more scale look and to give me more wriggle room.

Me too - I would have the fifth but out here the nearest takeaway is a 20 minute drive/40 minute round trip away

Thanks everyone for your helpful replies. This is the problem I have (serves me right for wanting a totally different engine than the kit was made for) I'm trying to leave the cylinders exposed and either just cover the exhaust collector ring or butt up to it with a small gap and this is the inside of the moulding. I've tried sanding it and it maybe smells a bit marzipan-y but my sense of smell isn't great The more I look at it and try to measure in three dimensions, the more I think I need to start from scratch and make a mould somehow. It's supposed to look something like this. I obviously won't get true scale representation but a reasonable looky-likey will do.

Thanks Alan. I need to shorten the cowling, but of course it tapers, different angles all round. If I am reshaping or reworking it, can I use epoxy regardless of what it’s made from or must it be epoxy on epoxy, polyester on polyester?

I have a large fibreglass cowling moulding that I want to modify. Is there an easy way to identify whether it's polyester or epoxy? I understand that they don't play well together. Is it easier to bodge it to how I want it then make a new mould and cast a new epoxy one? Any gotchas to watch out for? Thanks, David

Oooh, looks just like this Frsky hobby ?. You’re supposed to cluster the three pins on each side to pos and neg.

My dad bought me a ready to fly Cox Thimble Drone set, a Piper Cub or similar, all red IIRC. He wanted it of course, and I was the excuse. Would have been late 50s/early 60s. Off we went to North Reddish park where we got it running, dad on the handle, me hand launching as the grass was too long. It left my hand, went straight up, over the top, and piled nose first into the ground on the opposite side of the circle. Broken into a lot of pieces it was consigned to the loft and eventually binned, but I kept the engine. It did service on a powered glider years ago and I eventually sold it at a swap meet about 10 years ago. It was followed by a KeilKraft Champ with a PAW 149 which we did fly successfully, the engine from which was sold at the same swap meet.

I’m in the same position, so also interested in suggestions

The RB20 and RX8R connect with 3wire male to male servo type leads, not included, and the RXSR has its own 6 pin connector. This will come with a lead that will connect to the RB20 but will only be about 100mm long.

Haven't really explored that yet Andy. I have enough to think about just flying models without worrying about telemetry as well. All works fine though. The manual says it does but it looks like you have to convert numbers to binary and examine the bits. Haven't bothered to get my head around that yet.

I have a similar setup and use an RX4R secondary (as I already had it). Nice and small and tucked away down the back. All 16 channels available via the Sbus connection of course.

Had another member's dog pee on my model stand and flight box. Owner thought it was hilarious, almost flattened him. Club committee wouldn't ban dogs (same as OP, senior founder members all brought dogs) so I left and found another club.

It's the kit one, kind of oval shaped with two flat sides. Think the bung came with two through holes and a third part way through that you can open out for a three pipe system. I have clunk feed, one pipe to the top of the tank for exhaust pressure and the third to the bottom of the tank for fill and drain, but who knows what the builder of the model did. It's a circular bung, so the pipes can be in any position going to who knows where. Hack it out and re-plumb it, it's the only way you can be confident with it. Clunk lines do deteriorate too so replace it to be sure.

That's the standard kit tank. If it was me, I'd dig the tank out and replace all the plumbing.

One of my favourite aeroplanes. I had a trip in one a few years ago from Newquay Airport when we were on holiday in Cornwall. No Spitfire, but a fantastic experience, with an extra 5 minutes following an aborted approach in a strong crosswind.

John's correct, just hold the stick in the direction you want to adjust and the adjust box will only highlight and move that side. Bit awkward sometimes.

I usually go to Weston Park, but £20 on the gate is too much for me. I know it's "only" £14 in advance, but I can't plan in advance unfortunately.

Nigel, I was just having a rant. Had a bad morning and crashed a model. Anyway, I have WiFi calling on my mobile now (Sky) so the problem's gone away. Doesn't alter the fact that when organisations started two factor (yes of course I know they won't go back from it) they were almost without exception really unhelpful, offered no alternative to SMS and couldn't understand why this would not work for us. Most do now offer email or other methods but it's taken them a while to acknowledge that there are a lot of people without either mobile signal or mobile phone.

Well here in the countryside we have finally got decent broadband, but is 'fibre to cabinet'. The last few hundred yards from the cabinet at the village crossroads is good old copper and we have an old fashioned BT wall plate with a microfilter connecting router and landline phone. For a mobile signal we have to drive for over a mile by car, or walk a few hundred yards up the hill. Banks and increasingly many other online services cannot understand this, insisting that they send 'secondary authentication codes' by SMS to my mobile. It is intensely irritating. All these systems have been developed by city-dwelling twenty year olds who were born with a mobile phone attached and they cannot comprehend what it's like outside urban connurbations.