PatMc

And whilst they're at it, to mantain impartiality, they should also delete any pro-monarchist comments.

I assumed the end point was to be reduced, same as Matty. Also I should have said "ESC may recognise" not "ESC will recognise" .

Are the higher kv motors also low pole count ?

Are you sure it wasn't surgical spirit ? Meths is antiseptic but (AFAIR) it also prolongs bleeding time.

The timing is dependant on the rpm as well as the pole count. A 2s lipo would probably solve both this & the over power issue.

Was the school nurse an alcoholic😄

Or you could ues a 2s lipo.

I don't think it was anything to do with the Greens, it was simply realised that a lot of easily available adhesives etc were using chemicals that were harmful when being used without proper precautions being taken.

No, at some point the ESC will recognise the limited stick travel as full 0 - 100%. Do as Geoff suggests, try a smaller prop.

Hi Alfred, I'm with JD 8 regarding 35 Meg V 2.4 Gig, though since you now have 2.4 gear why not use it ? I would, even if only to obviate the chance ( albeit small chance) of a frequency clash. Had a quick google for the Eflite Cherub details - AFAICS it hasn't been on sale for quite some time but when it was it had a brushed motor installed. It would be worth checking if yours still has or has been upgraded. In case you are not aware - the quick way would be to check if the motor/esc connection is 2 wire (brushed 👎) or 3 wire (brushless 👍)

Solly, surely ARTF has the same impact on every other country's international scale team.

Well I suppose it's still April. Well I suppose

Re the spiralling costs - some {many ?} of us still have a kit "mountain" to use up (or sell on) & maybe also a stash of raw material to scratch build from without dipping too much into our pockets. 😊

I believe Fokker & Platz were influenced by Junkers in using thick wing sections in order to produce a fully cantilever wing. The D. VII wings were designed to be fully cantilever & flown without interplane struts but pilots were unnerved by the wings not always remaining parallel under even normal flight loads so struts were fitted to the production aircraft. Re aileron differential/adverse yaw ; the Wright Bros were aware of it before their first powered flight, they used coupled rudder to compensate from the first fight on. OTOH some fighter pilots deliberately flew into combat zones with some rudder (& opposite aileron) to induce a yaw in order to disguise the true direction they were flying in by a few degrees. The idea was to cause the opposition to misjudge their aim. It was successful to the extent that some pilots were said to have used the tactic during dogfights in the early days of WW2.

@David Hayward I think one of these chargers would meet your needs. You could download the instructions from the post & check. I have one from way back, it's a very good charger & my first choice for any non lithium battery charging.

A bit untidy but I don't think the gap will be a big issue. However as drawn won't the aileron have more down travel than up ?

IMO since you have an instructor (whom you seem happy with) all you really need from the forum is encouragement. Any advice offered that might raise doubt about what you are being or about to be taught isn't helpful no matter how well intended.

Try searching through this site https://ksmetals.uk/

If that method is used it will give to the rpm required to generate one volt. This not what is commonly quoted as the Kv by the model world who actually give the rpm achieved per input volt.

Aircraft carriers don't necessarily need catapults, in fact the very first flight from a ship didn't have a catapult assisted launch.

Was that this century, Geoff ? 😄

Tosh, forget about a dummy no load prop, just use two pieces coloured tape on the "rim" of the motor. Don't fit anything to the shaft, point your tacho at the rim from the side & take the rpm & voltage reading. I do this with every new motor I get.

Notice that in that article the Kv is (correctly by convention) the rpm for the motor to produce 1 volt. We almost universally wrongly refer Kv as rpm attained per volt running with no load.

I stick 2 strips of adhesive tape to the motor body positioned roughly diametrically opposite & measure the rpm using an optical tacho directed at the side of the motor. If necessary I remove (at least temporarily) any labels & use either white or black tape depending on which is the best contrast with the motor's colour.

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