leccyflyer

Well, I think that you've looked at All The Reasons, so if you really want to get Down Down to the field tomorrow, don;t want to be Accident Prone or Break The Rules you know What To Do. Fixing the other model as a substitute should Ease Your Mind, don't ask Is There A better Way, don;t let it Hold You Back, and just tell the organisers Let Me Fly. ?

Given the time pressure that you have in order to be ready for the weekend, I'd be inclined to swap the elevator servo out entirely, put in another suitable servo and then troubleshoot the dodgy servo at your leisure. The last thing you want is to take to the air with an elevator servo that you are not 100% certain about.

Nice job on the front end there. For such mouldings, where the gluing area is very small, I usually put a balsa or depron insert in there to increase the gluing area.

Yes, Isopropanol to clean off any residual hairspray from the build bed. I find it leaves the bed slightly sticky until it evaporates off, but I guess that's not a bad thing. The magnetic build bed on the Ender is a boon - no more messing with those squares of blue adhesive tape. I still tend to mostly print one item at a time -a legacy from the Malyan M150 when some early attempts at multi part printing resulted in one of the items being displaced during printing and coming back to the convoluted knot of angel's hair spaghetti and a ruined set of prints. I think the Ender 5 will be better behaved.

Thanks Richard - that was a nice surprise this afternoon. ? Has anyone done an electric Hurricane yet?

I tend to create several files, in different scales and sometimes, in different orientations, when experimenting with a print. It's just a matter of having a naming convention, so that you know which is which. It helps to put the differentiator at the beginning of the file name, because the LCD display on the printer has a limit on the number of characters. So if you are printing say two different scale pilots then it's better to put 40mmspitfirepilot.gcode and 45mmspitfirepilot.gcode rather than spitfirepilot40mm.gcode and spitfirepilot45mm.gcode. ? I printed some spats last week and trying to print them flat they failed abysmally. Printing them upright worked beautifully. I didn't save those as different files, I overwrote the original files - I do have different aspect ratio versions though, with different names reflecting their dimensions, since the originals ones are very chunky and these ones are rather slender.

1. Yes, you do all the slicing in Cura. 2.The most typical model file is an .STL file, though there are other formats. 3. I don't use Fusion so can't help there, sorry. 4. You can mirror your design in Cura easily enough, Just click on the object, then on the Mirror button (circled in yellow) -which expands into three buttons for a mirror in X, Y or Z - pick which mirror you want and hit the button. Then save as a new file name, say something like servocoverl.stl and servocoverr.stl.

Yes -it's vastly superior to Solarfilm. Cover grip will certainly work on any overlaps, but I'd advise a test to see how it looks with a transparent film. The overlaps will look darker anyway, due to the double film thickness, but if the Cover Grip dries opaque it might spoil the appearance of the covering job completely.

I used Prymol a few months ago to prep my Kyosho Spitfire refurb for painting. It did a good job on what I suspect is probably Solarfilm and the B&Q acrylic has adhered pretty well. I removed a couple of patches of the underwing covering to fit radiator and air cooler and that film had that slightly rubbery cheap plastic texture of Solarfilm.

My small tin of Prymol is more than 25 years old - been used maybe four times. A little goes a long way.

I didn't say that Cover Grip is an equivalent to Prymol. Andy asked for an alternative product and Cover Grip is an alternative product.

Deluxe Materials Cover Grip - not sure about how transparent it is on fully transparent film though, it's a white liquid when cold.

Very nice that Paul - Arrows?

I'd like a Hurricane with all the trimmings please Richard.

Superb S6b and excellent photography too - well done to all involved. ?

Wow! There's some impressive kit in there Upkeep and some brilliant storage ideas too. Love the tape storage idea.?

Also from Tuesday, my pal Derek's P39 Airacobra in Soviet winter camo - a smashing repaint from the bright yellow Reno Racer scheme.

Took this one on Tuesday - my clubmate Rainer's depron F104 Starfighter in Luftwaffe colours.

I have all the detailed information on a spreadsheet - this is just for a bit of fantasy fun. The board is mounted on the wall at the mezzanine, which looks down on my model ready use racks - like this. ?

Latest addition to my workshop is this bit of silliness. I had a spare noticeboard from my old home office/workroom which didn't have an obvious home and a tin of blackboard paint, so I came up with the notion of replicating one of those Squadron Readiness Boards that you see in the old war films. I set to with the Silhouette vinyl cutter and made a mock up for my warbirds. Just done for a bit of fun, but it does have some utility in keeping track of any minor or major fix-ups that need to be done. The name of the fictitious RAF station has been changed to protect the innocent. ?

You missed a couple of great days "Tosh" - Tuesday was especially good. ?

Hi Robert The Wimpey had GWS 300 EPS B geared motors with 8x6" GWS slow flyer props - it was the 12v of the 3s1p lipo which killed them on the third flight. Ultimately I'll do a small brushless replacement. I can use one of the existing wiring loom wires to pull the three brushless motor leads through the wings. For now, just in case she's required for Ops tonight, I've fitted a replacement pair of GWS 300 EPS B geared motors. cheers Brian

Yes Ron, that's my favourite too "Yellow-nosed b%$£&^%s coming down! Now!" ?

Photo credit for these superb images to my pal Derek R - he certainly has the knack of capturing these aeroplanes. Second maiden flight was my Durafly Messerschmitt Bf109e, which I assembled during the lockdown and which has previously had a car ride to the field only for me to bottle out of a maiden flight. The Durafly Emil has a bit of a reputation for tricky ground handling and I was waiting for the perfect day. In the event I was very happy with the maiden flight, not a hint of a noseover and she tracked pretty straight, until the tail came up, at which point she took a sharp left turn and the take off proceeded to the southwest, rather than to the north! The model is a delight to fly in the air, on the maiden I just settled for strafing the field - the landing even went well, though needed a blip of throttle and a bootful of rudder just before touchdown, she stayed on her wheels and I didn't dare risk a taxi back.

Couple of successful maiden flights for me this week of models that were waiting to fly since the lockdown. First off a 60" span Vickers Wellington, traditional stick and tissue build from an RCMW plan by my clubmate Bob. I picked this lovely model up at a swapmeet a couple of weeks before the lockdown and finally had the conditions for a maiden on Monday. She flies beautifully, but our concerns on the original GWS EPS geared brushed motors on 3s1p 2250mah were well founded -they don't like that high voltage and were dead after 3 flights. Those three flights were perfect though ? I've now replaced the motors and will be more gentle with 2s2p 1800mah instead. Plenty of Wimpeys did their training flights over these hills and she sits perfectly in these surroundings.