Steve Hargreaves - Moderator

Slightly off topic but I think the most recent posters are referring (perhaps unknowingly) to new regulations coming in mid September. SCA... Strong (or Secure) Customer Authentication is a new banking regulation from our friends at the EU coming to an online purchase near you soon......some details here **LINK**

I was tempted to change the thread name but after seeing Bob Cs comment I think I'll leave it just as it is....

Welcome to the forum Thomas.....

I’m sorry if you think the model railway thread was closed prematurely. It had already been reported by other members & from long experience on the forum we know these debates at best go around in circles & at worst degenerate into a slanging match. Frankly we Mods have better things to do with our time so before any serious nastiness developed the decision was taken to close the thread. I hope you understand

Gents, I'm going to close this thread. We've all seen how these debates can quickly degenerate so let's agree this was a dreadful incident, send our very best wishes (& some money if you like) to the Railway Club & leave it at that. Thank you

First question I suppose is why would you want to do this? I assume you have an ESC in there with a built in regulator to supply the radio....why not use that? To answer your question though simply remove the +ve wire (usually red & nearly always the middle of the three wires in the Rx plug from the ESC). You can cut it but this makes it difficult to use the ESC in future models, or if you look closely at the Rx plug you will see that the contacts are retained by a little wedge of plastic....using a pin you can gently ease this back & withdraw the +ve contact & tape it up out of the way. You can then simply plug you're separate battery into the Rx for power.

SLAs usually charge using the Constant Current/Constant Voltage regime.....this means they will charge at a set current until a specific voltage is reached & then that voltage will be held & the current reduced until the battery is fully charged. For a single SLA cell the max voltage is about 2.3 volts. Your smart charger should take care of all this for you though Graeme....tell the charger its a single cell (might be 1S on your menu) set the current to....well Denis' 500mA is as good as anything but you can go higher if you like....anything up to 1A will be fine. Press start & the current & voltage should start to tick upwards until either the current hits 500mA or the voltage rises to 2.3V......the battery will start to charge. When it's fully charged the charger will switch off.... As Doc says a fully charged cell can be as high as 2.2V straight from the charger but this will soon drop back....make sure you charge the cell a few days before you go flying & it will be fine.... If you are concerned that the voltage is too high a long glow lead (1-1.5m) will drop the voltage sufficiently but personally I don't bother. If you DO go for a long lead make sure it can't tangle with the prop when in use.....that can really spoil your day...

Hi Richard, welcome to the forum & welcome BACK to the hobby.... Although a Futaba user I don't do much gliding so not really able to offer you any guidance I'm afraid. I'm sure someone will be along in a short while to help you out...

Ah....I can almost smell the diesel fumes..... Starts easily eh? I'm sure someone said it would......

As the other chaps have mentioned it's probably a dodgy connection. Poor soldering of the motor connections would be my guess....

Yes indeed....I fear a sheared crank pin.....same thing happened to my ASP91 a while ago.... Removing the back plate is a fairly simple task & should confirm (or hopefully deny) my diagnosis...

Hi Alex & welcome to the forum...... I can't help you identify the model unfortunately but I'm sure someone will know..... Good Luck....

Hi Laura & welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about the loss of your Dad. But you've come to the right place....centuries if experience on here so any question you like...ask away. Are you planning to join a local club & learn to fly there? If you used to fly with your Dad I'm sure the knack will soon return. Enjoy your new hobby...

2nd flick start...you'll see....

Yep... some wheels would be a good investment..... Not long now until you fire up that trusty diesel Luccaaa

I have done exactly that on my Pitts Special fitted with an ASP61 Frank....

Which engine is it FB? Some engines already have the breather pipe connected to the inlet manifold. Many of the OS engines breath through the castings so have no external breather. If yours has a breather nipple in the crank case simply add a length of fuel tube long enough to clear the cowl & vent to atmosphere. Excess oil is discharged through the breather so if you don't vent this you'll be amazed at how oily the inside of the cowl becomes.

Looking good Will..... Just a couple of thoughts about the D cell though... how are you going to connect a glow lead to it? Maybe a battery box you can put the cell in & connect to the battery box Will it supply enough current? Typically a glow plug will take 2-3 Amps... The USB connection almost certainly won't handle the 2-3A draw from the glow plug..... A good tip to to put a small cheap ammeter (like this) in series with the plug...that way you know if it's glowing inside the engine...

Built a lot of 1/72nd Airfix kits as a nipper...mainly Tanks & other vehicles....I also spent hours painting the soldiers. When my boys were old enough to give them a go I was shocked at how small the parts are.....they seem a lot smaller than my 9 year old self remembers them..... Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 10/03/2019 22:27:10

Hi Simon...welcome to the forum. Look forward to your first build thread...

Off topic posts deleted...

Bit reluctant to say this if you've just bought a new SLA battery Will but....dump the SLA battery & replace it with a small 3S Lipo to power your Power panel glow driver & use a 3S LiPo (2200 is fine) for your starter (attached directly to the starter). Less weight, more power....gotta be good... Personally I'd ditch the Power panel altogether & use either an NiMH glow starter or (better still) a 2V SLA battery like this **LINK** (or maybe the 5Ah version). More weight saving.....a smaller fuel bottle perhaps? a 1 litre can will get you many flights on that 46 glow motor...keep the bulk supply in the car...

I've just watched it too Geoff & as you say well worth a look if only to see the fine job made of the new Airfix model ready for it's debut......

Posted by paul coleman 1 on 05/03/2019 17:07:22: I have just purchased the super flying models,piper cub kit to build a 67 in wing span,43 in fuse,elec or ic,for £89.99,you can but an artf one for about £120,i got mine off a dealer on ebay,as ripmax have not yet got them in stock for distribution,April or May expected,good quality kits. Interesting model for a newcomer to R/C Paul......maybe get an experienced modeller to fly it for you first....

Posted by paul coleman 1 on 09/03/2019 09:40:04: Shouldnt we be sticking to the intended use of this site,model planes,im sure there will be plenty of sites to rant on about cars,happy landings everyone,when the weathers right that is. The forum is a big tent Paul, there is room for many different subjects & opinions. The Chit Chat section was created specifically for "Anything & Everything".....indeed I saw a thread about growing Chillis recently.... All that we ask is that posters stick broadly to the topic under discussion in a particular thread & follow the CoC. There is no compulsion to read every thread. If the topic under discussion does not appeal to you then do not read it. Simple as that really....