
brokenenglish
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22 is a Majesco 2cc - Very rare indeed. 20 is a Dyne 10cc 18 is a Dyne 6cc 15 is an HP 3.5cc 23 is a Hallam diesel (I think!) All forties vintage rare English (and Welsh!) engines. I'll need to dig through documentation to identify the others.
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"1 Stroke" INNengine REX-B 1S-125cc
brokenenglish replied to Paul De Tourtoulon's topic in IC Engines
TBH, I'd rather have my ED Bees. -
Yes, you're right about the serial number. I forgot about the "L" and I'd run out of fingers. The S/N couldn't be '57. By 1957 the serial numbers were on the side of the case and I think the lugs were no longer scalloped. I'm not sure of the exact year they stopped scalloping the lugs, but it was before 1957.
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There's no reason to think that it might have been "marine", the M prefix on the serial number is just the production month (December). Mike, this photo shows the way your engine should be. It's the first production configuration.
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ED, just a bit of info. Not all Comp Specials have scalloped lugs. It was done to differentiate in relation to the Penny Slot (the Mk II). When ED stopped making the Penny Slot, they stopped scalloping Comp Special lugs, so "later" Comp Specials have normal straight lugs, probably around 50% of total production. The serial number on the OP engine is a normal Comp Special serial number (Dec. '47). So it's very early production (looks like the 64th Comp Special made). Finally, I tried an RC carb on a Comp Special, around 40 years ago and IIRC, it wasn't very successful.
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Normally, I think your Comp Special should have sub-piston induction.
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You don't need an RC carb to fly a nice old FF model. If you arrange the tank to give 3 or 4 minutes of engine run (in the air), you'll get between 5 and 10 minutes of glide and such flights are very enjoyable.
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Hi Tim, You were a bit unlucky with the O&R 23 that you "happened to find". They were made from 1938 until 1952, and only the 1947 model (which you have) was lugless (radial mount only). However, there was a beam/radial mount adapter available, for beam mounting, and there was also a tank mount accessory (see photo). I have a lot of Ohlssons and O&Rs and I like them a lot. Shame you found the only model with inconvenient mounting.
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David you've got your engines mixed up. I have a 45 and a 62, and the front bearing housings are parallel profile, not tapered like the one in your picture, i.e. as shown in John Rickett's photo above. Your engine is bigger and/or later than you think.
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I think most cars are slightly cheaper purchased in countries other than their country of manufacture. The manufacturers consider that they have a "captive market" in their own country (i.e. people who will only buy a car from their own country). Conversely, they make a slight "pricing effort" for other countries, to gain export revenue. In France, there are flourishing businesses who import new cars from abroad (say importing Peugeot from Denmark or Germany), and then sell them to French customers at a price somewhere between the domestic price and the export price. You can save a bit if you don't mind the hassle.
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Congrats! What a super result. +1 for the anodising process suggestion.
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OK Jeff, the black paint isn't as bad as I feared, and I agree that the best protection is to keep them oily. Interesting that you have a Mk I head on the other Mk II engine. Not many of those heads around (i.e. not many Mk I engines).
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Jeff, Just my humble opinion. The work looks great, but the Racer case would be much better left natural magnesium, rather than painted (yuk!). I have several newish originals, and most are losing their original black coating to varying degrees. Personally, I much prefer an "original" look to a restored and repainted look...
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Going back to the ident. question, I thought small OK Cubs had "OK Cub" cast in the bottom of the crankcase. Mine have.
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Jeff, I don't know anything about these oddball designs, but that engine is very like an early Allouchery.
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As mentioned above, I contacted Ian Russell, who probably knows more about Merco production than anyone on here. I reproduce part of his answer below, but the bottom line is that the OP engine is probably a .49. Ian says: "Definitely not one from me. The size was cast on the c/case, where the little circle is, below the C of Merco. The cases could be cast with either 49 or 61 where the circle is. Later they couldn’t be bothered with this, and had all 61 cases cast. Then if it was a 49, just spot faced the 61 away and stamped 49 on the side of a lug. It’s probably a 49." I think that's probably the end of the story.
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Robin, Only one version of the 35 had the prop driver covering the front bearing (the Forest Engineering version). All the others didn't, so that isn't a means of identifying a 35!
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It certainly isn't a 35. They are all plain bearing. The original Merco production 49 and 61 engines were marked (in the casting) 49 or 61. So your problem stems from the fact that this isn't an "original" or a Forest Engineering engine. There have been several other "remakes", in particular Premier Plastics and some organised by Ian Russell (Rustler Engines). These remakes produced some non-original sizes (40 & 50) and I think your engine must be one of those. If you really want to know, then I could contact Ian Russell, who would know for sure. But be advised that there's a lot of wrong conjecture above...
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Just found this. IMO, there's some confusion in the OP. A Cox Queen Bee is an .074, not an .049, so which are we discussing? Is your engine a Queen Bee or is it an .049? Whichever engine it is, and in spite of the dogmatic remarks made above, IMO, you'll need some castor in the fuel. IIRC, KK Nitrex (in the UK) and the original Cox fuels (in the US) both used castor.
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There's some confusion here. You say "If I run it, returns would be complicated". That means that you want to return it even if it runs, or did I miss something? I don't think anyone would question the return of an engine that you were unable to start. Also, returning an engine without even trying to run it would hardly stand in the event of a dispute. If the engine is a Redfin, call Alex, ask for his opinion and do whatever he recommends. I still think all this discussion without even trying to run the engine is (insert your own mod-compatible term).
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TBH, I find all this theorising without even trying to run the engine is intellectual overkill, not to say a bit of a waste of time. At least try to run the thing and see what happens. If it runs OK, no problem, and if it doesn't, then is the time return it, along with your opinions. I must have run several hundred old diesels and I've never even thought of this kind of nonsense. At least give the thing a chance...
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I just checked. The La17, Sabre and a "Deltaceptor" are available on Outerzone. The FD2 is missing (for the moment!). The advantage with these Phil Smith designs is that, apart from being well designed and good fliers, all the ducting/motor mount, etc. is already designed in.
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Sorry, I only just found this. There's an obvious answer to the OP. While converting the small KK and Guillows kits might be a challenge without scaling up, Phil Smith's sticks and tissue Veron kits would be great (being a bit larger). The Veron La17, Sabre and FD2 would be great EDF fliers. I'm sure it must have been done already.
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I just found this thread and I just registered. Right now, the registration form says "scheduled for March 29 at 7pm"
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OK, we disagree. However, I'm surprised that you should have an engine confiscated (for no valid reason) and recommend them! Something peculiar happened with my link. I tried it twice when I posted, and it worked OK. Now it doesn't. Let's try this one. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/search.php?searchid=84809249&query=pitney Edit. That link just worked immediately after I posted.