Ronaldo
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Everything posted by Ronaldo
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I use the bubble wrap foil that has the silver lining on both sides, I find it's much more durable than the other with the clear bubble wrap on one side.
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Joking aside Rocker, I've also been using 'AVG free' for years. It's not 'spy wear' ... but it has protected me from many viruses, and blocks anything it considers dodgy from downloading to my PC
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Best 'spy wear', is to wear a rubber 'Rowan Atkinson' mask, and pose as Johnny English ....
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Building board
Ronaldo replied to Stephen Belshaw's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Ha ha ha. Tha's reet there lad -
Building board
Ronaldo replied to Stephen Belshaw's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Geoff. Yes you still need a true dead flat table or bench. I know this has been mentioned many times before, but worth bringing up again, a good way is to get an interior flat hollow core door, these are usually made flat and true, reasonably light to handle and cheap for the length of time it will last you. You can either make a bench out of that or secure it to the top of an old one that you're not happy with. Then cut a piece of plasterboard to fit the door and place on top. This gives the best of both worlds. You will always have a true flat bench for many years, protected by the plasterboard, and the 'pin friendly' plasterboard will give long service, as well as being easily and cheaply replaceable when necessary. Nigel Yes you are right about the the raw edges spilling chalk, I run a length of 2inch ducting tape folded over the edges, ...... also another bonus, when one side of my plasterboard starts looking a bit tatty, I turn it over and use the other side -
Posted by Martin Harris on 23/11/2018 22:00:03: The bargains are never ending... ...and check out his other items for more examples of eternal optimism! The British Museum should acquire that to add to their Jurrasic fossil collection
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Hobby King
Ronaldo replied to Anthony Phillips 6's topic in R/C Retailers / Distributors / Manufacturers
Sorry to hear so much dissatisfaction with Hobby King, but to be fair I have ordered many items from them over the years with no problems. What I will say though, is to be careful to check the item/s are in stock first and not to order anything on 'back order' as I find they sometimes do not always manage to restock certain items, so you could be waiting a very long time for a refund, or for the item if it should become available again. Also I only ever order if the item is available in the UK warehouse. So far I have always received my orders from Hobby King within two to four days. Edited By Ronaldo on 22/11/2018 00:19:20 -
Ok John, will take a look at Impex also. Thanks.
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Not sure if this is the IMPEX type glue mentioned earlier, but here's a link to a Fast Tack glue I was sent. Not used it myself, but I'm told it's good for gluing on covering materials. **LINK**
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As Bob says, still available but in limited colours and lengths. A club mate bought some from the website in the link, they take paypal, ..... but yes the prices have gone up !!
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I know this will not meet the approval of many, so firstly I do not say follow my lead or claim it is safe practice. On the subject of guards on workshop machines, I must admit I have removed the guards on 'some' of my machines, not all, (machine guards to protects hands and fingers such as circular saws etc I leave on) this is only where the guard obstructed my view of the work, and was practically impossible to work on ! I much prefer to use a clear full face good quality visor, I can see my work much better, less mistakes made, and in my opinion 'sometimes' safer, avoiding tools digging in or drill bits jamming simply because I couldn't see the work fully. So if you have to use workshop machines without a guard, please be safe, and at the very least wear eye protection, or better still a full face visor.
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Awww ... don't be too harsh ... the silencer pressure nipple looks serviceable ...
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Usually letters arrive ok, as our post lady knows who we are. Larger packages usually come by a different postie in a Royal Mail van, or by a different courier, and I do understand they must have a tremendous ever increasing work load to get though, and do the job best they can, but I just wish the actual deliverer (both Royal Mail and other couriers) would check the house number and street names first before parting with a package or parcel to a household. I've had larger packages of modelling stuff turning up at the wrong address a few streets away, thankfully the wrong recipients were kind enough to walk up and deliver the package to us, I even witnessed over my garden fence a large parcel of mine being delivered to my next door neighbour as I was talking to her, the deliverer didn't even check the name or house number which was in bold black and white on the garden gate ! other packages have gone missing totally even though the online tracking number say the package has been signed for and delivered to me !! Really ... do they even bother look at the address on the package !!?? Now when I order an item from ebay or any other company, I try and find a supplier who offers a 'click and collect' delivery pick up point. Usually this is my local Argos shop, 10mins away. So the postie/ courier can't possibly get the wrong address with the big lit up "ARGOS" shop sign staring them in the face ..... So far no missing packages with this method Edited By Ronaldo on 13/11/2018 10:44:24 Edited By Ronaldo on 13/11/2018 10:48:24
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Been using DLE singles and twins for myself, and fitted many for club mates for last 10 years. Never had a problem apart from the noisy original silencers that came with the engine. I fit good quality silencers, and cans on mine. Makes a noticeable difference. Edited By Ronaldo on 06/11/2018 22:45:23 Edited By Ronaldo on 06/11/2018 22:46:54
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Sounds like fair justice to me Don. If some certain ''defensive methods'' were applied today by a person protecting his/her home or person, they would likely end up doing time at her majesty's pleasure, while the said 'pondlife' would be left free to carry on their obnoxious and criminal activities. Sad state of affairs.
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Same here, cotton baby socks work for me. To make them fit I make small holes and thread small tie wraps through and pull them tight over the top of the iron to take out any slack.
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Started from plans and kits ... when we had to cut out all the parts out from printed balsa, that's how far back I started. Moved on to ARTF around 10 years go. Now I do both, but must admit I get most satisfaction building from plans and kits.
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Petrol engine kill switch wiring query!
Ronaldo replied to martin collins 1's topic in All Things Model Flying
This my setup for those of you who have never used a kill switch before. I use the Rcexl kill switch on all my petrol models. I plug the power supply/batt lead into a slide switch connected to the ignition battery, so I can isolate the power to the kill switch at the end of a flying session. I then plug the ignition lead into the ignition unit. I then put the receiver lead into a spare Rx port, and assign that port to a sprung switch on top of my Tx so I can't accidently knock it to 'off' during flight. When I have fitted kill switches to a club mate's model who didn't have a sprung switch ( I opened up my Tx and fitted my own sprung switch ) I assigned it to his 'range check' button ( Spektrum Tx ) on top of his Tx which is also sprung, so no way that can be accidently switched off. Failing that, as mentioned earlier, a rotary or slide switch is the next best option. -
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So sorry to hear of your loss Onetenor I know it's not easy, but please try to stay strong yourself. Ronaldo
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Oh no ........ sorry to hear that. Just like to mention a broken ply wing brace can be repaired without have to open up the wing providing the ply brace is thick enough, by drilling 2 holes into each break at the wing roots with a 'long' wood drill bit. Then joining together with 2 solid carbon rods. Fortunately I didn't have much dihedral to worry about, but also if the holes are slightly bigger than the diameter of the carbon rods, you will have some play allowing to align up both wings, also possibly allowing to add any needed dihedral. Use 30 mins epoxy with some microfibers added, just enough to stop the epoxy from being too runny, feed into the drilled out holes (paper kitchen towels useful here to mop up any epoxy squeezing out of the wing root holes as you push the carbon rods in), this fills up any gaps or play around the carbon rods once the wings have been jigged up and aligned. Just a thought, hope this helps. Edited By Ronaldo on 29/09/2018 12:48:39
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This is my choice of thick cyano these days, 100g for £5.30 and free post ! Works well and a bargain ! **LINK** Edited By Ronaldo on 26/09/2018 17:51:54
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How much to charge
Ronaldo replied to Geoff Parkes's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
How much you charge is difficult especially if it's among good friends one may have known for many years, as you can become like 'family' in a model flying club. So it's down to what you are happy with, but make sure you are never out of pocket. I am retired, I have built from start to finish large 50cc - 100cc petrol artf models, also some composite 'hotliner' gliders for club mate friends I have known for many years, with them providing all the materials. Sometimes a club mate would buy 2 kits, one for me to build for him, and one for me to keep in payment. Other times I would accept a new set of servos, or an engine, or other essential items I needed to complete a project of my own (even a bottle of whiskey helps to keep me sweet lol). I very rarely take cash, and it is a happy arrangement. As they say 'swings and roundabouts', and all works out agreeably in the end. However, as much as I love building, (more than flying I must admit), and I have enjoyed it and gained a lot of experience and satisfaction, it was getting to a point where my workshop was never free of someone else's model. It was like a conveyor belt with one model after another, and believe me, you start to lose interest as it starts to become a chore. So much so that I could never find the time to build for myself, and when I did find the time I had lost interest in my project as by then just wanted a break from model building all together. So it's also about keeping a happy balance, and not allowing yourself to get bogged down with other people's models to the point where you have no time for your own projects. As mentioned in a another reply above, you may get to a point (hopefully not) where you will eventually have to learn to say no, or it could all get too much, and no longer be enjoyable. So now I just do the front 'business end', fitting the petrol engine, ignition, fuel plumbing, maybe some repairs etc, and then they complete the rest of the model. I never do complete build for others anymore, so that my workbench is only tied up for a few days rather than weeks. -
Also had this happen to me once when I throttled up for the first time my new 55cc petrol engine fitted with factory supplied cheap soft prop bolts, fortunately I was stood behind my model ! I replace them with better high tensile bolts. Goes to show it's safer for all to stay behind the prop of a running engine !**LINK**
