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Mark Stevens 1

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Everything posted by Mark Stevens 1

  1. Plenty of suppliers of PETG sheet in the UK for larger sizes, I've just had a batch of 5 A3 1mm size sheets arrive last week for the final mouldings on my Lynx. (The big IR Exhaust diffuser boxes fitted on the rear, the balsa plugs are done and I've already vac-formed the front intake sections) As a side note, RCM&E and A.S.P. (Publications) as they were back then, actually sold a kit to build a Vac-Former.(Over 30 yrs ago now) I bought one of those kits, assembled it and am still using it quite frequently. It is not for sale anymore but I have had clearance to share the original instructions / drawings online for anyone who wants them. I don't have them posted up on a website anywhere but can send as PDF files to anyone who is interested or even post up on here if there is scope to do so Mark
  2. Posted by Piers Bowlan on 05/03/2018 05:41:42: Dave, you say that it has a span of 57in and no doubt you have checked Outerzone by now but it looks very much like the Veron Cherokee 180 (span 56in) here, looking at the construction. The length should be 45in but unless you have the cowl perhaps that is not helpful. There is a link to four more photos below the header photo on the site that might be more useful. I expect many of the more adventurous builders fitted a retractable undercarriage to their model back in the day. The spec. of the original says that it was for a 19-40 two strokes, but there weren't any four strokes when it was designed. It was quoted as 5.5lbs with the 19 engine. Perhaps an OS 52 or 56 FS would be a good match and you could replace the mechanical retracts with modern electric? Shaun Garity built a Vernon Cherokee that was featured in an edition of RCM&E during the last 12 months but I can't remember which edition and I am not at home at present to check. Good luck with the rebuild, looks like a fun project. Edited By Piers Bowlan on 05/03/2018 05:53:18 5.5 lbs (2.5 kg) on a 19 engine would have been just on marginal power at that weight judging by the old engines back then. I've certainly used a few of them. Mark
  3. Now all you have to do is get your hands on a Vintage Helicopter and compare it to the one you've just built. The Vintage one will come out tops in terms of simplicity and they actually fly very well considering we did not have Gyros or extra onboard stabilisation back in the early days. The hard work was already done. The newer machines today are way too over engineered. As you can probably guess I'm a fan of Vintage RC Helicopters and have quite a few of them. Mark
  4. Hi Robert, Loving the build so far - reminds me of my days when I used to sit and draw plans by hand too : As for the paper covering method, I have used this on balsa many times, not with brown paper but with normal computer printer paper and clear PVA Glue (the sort kids use in schools) There is a slight shrinkage but nothing to worry about so long as you don't overdo it with the glue. You won't end up with the starved effect as it is water based glue. Just take care when applying the paper and rub out any bumps or blisters (pop them with a pin if you need to help this) When it dries it is quite flat and tough over any open holes (a bit like the old tissue / dope method but better) You can easily rub down any overlaps or join edges with a little light sanding. To finish off, a coat 2 or thinned dope (very lightly sanded between each coat) gives a really nice finish for painting with no wood grain visible. A lot of people may point out the weight gain but it is barely noticeable. I'm looking forwards to seeing more of the build. Mark
  5. The Kiel Kraft likeness has already been previously mentioned in this thread and I cannot help but notice the likeness to the old KK Sportster, originally a free flight model. The wings, tailplane and fin are even the same shape. I'm guessing some mods were done on the fuselage to accommodate the engine and of course a slightly different canopy. It's pretty close **LINK** Mark
  6. If it's there grab it whilst you can, I bought mine elsewhere a couple of years back and it has proven to be such a great tool to have in the workshop. Mine has the belt sander on it too which I have used a couple of times but the disc bit gets used the most. The one bit mine doesn't have is the variable speed, which to me, would be so much better. In short, if all you need is a disc sander then go for it, you won't go wrong at that price and replacement discs are easy to find online Mark. Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 03/02/2018 02:56:46
  7. And the correct answer is....... Highly likely you have Facebook message notifications switched on - It is there to show you when you receive a new notification or message on Facebook whilst viewing other websites. It is totally harmless and can be switched off in your facebook settings - As you can see it is a setting for the Chrome browser...in this case it is switched on Mark
  8. Certainly not a dying art for me, When it comes to planes, The Traditional method of building with balsa either from a plan or a kit is the only way I've ever done them. I've even designed a small number of planes back in the 1980's. That was the time when I would actually draw my own plans and have them dyeline printed. This one might actually see the light of day this year as I fancy having something to chuck off the Great Orme. I can't really do that with my Helis. I will probably do a slight mod on this one now to make it 3 channel, easy enough to do. You can see the date I designed this in the pics. Mark
  9. I know the Airfix guys have long used the old Johnsons Klear - now called Future Klear to remove any fogging from clear canopies. It also works well for us RC guys. If you can't find any, a thin coat of clear varnish on the affected side should sort it out nicely. Mark
  10. Nice choice for the mass build, the Jack Headley Cub was my first ever RC plane that I built from those very same plans. I ended up cutting my plans to shreds (I learnt not to cut out parts on unprotected plans from then on). I do have another copy of the plan as I've always toyed with the idea of building another and bought a new plan. I ended up selling the model but wish I hadn't. The pic shows a young 18 yr old me back in 1981 with that same model. Mark   Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 20/12/2017 04:02:59
  11. Posted by Tom Major on 11/12/2017 14:18:33: **LINK**   His other listings are similar   I actually know who this seller is and I suspect most of you will do too if you frequent the BMFA pages on Facebook. He often travels the country buying and selling model stuff and is a bit of a celebrity now. I have bought many items off him with no problem and you can't fault his packaging lol. He is quite a respected character and can certainly fly. A lot of people like to try and spot him at the shows now. That should be enough clues for you. Mark   Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 20/12/2017 03:55:03
  12. Eric, not sure where you are but this one is up on ebay, collection only in Warwickshire - I suspect it is more 500 size but one of your machines will certainly go in there. Not a bad price either. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MBB-BO105-450-size-electric-helicopter-fuselage-/322664890994 Mark Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 15/11/2017 01:54:23
  13. Agreed with Martin above, the scale site is well worth a check. As for buying fuselages, most will fit your given models but do check on the fuselage specs first as some will not fit certain models. Nice to see Colin mentioned the old Morley Machines, I have 5 of them including 2 A109's. The Lynx in the pic is a Morley Fuselage (Fitted with original Morley MXA mechanics which it was designed for) This will accommodate a TREX 600 perfectly. Mark   Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 15/11/2017 02:01:56
  14. Andy, Check John Lee's last reply just above, that is very much the model your are looking for, it is 60 inch span with the solid front windows as you describe on yours. Mark
  15. Yes, I have made several sets for RC Cars using the both the self adhesive films and the waterslide type stuff with good results. I used the method described in the first post. I am also about to do the same again for my 1/10th Lynx AH7 Helicopter. I have scanned in the transfers from the Airfix 1/48th scale kit and have enlarged them for my model. Very easy to do and very worthwhile. Mark
  16. I use the Halfords rattle cans all the time and find them to be pretty good. A coat of varnish or fuel proofer is recommended though mainly in areas where fuel or exhaust residue is likely to make contact. I found this out when doing RC Nitro Car shells. Mark
  17. Posted by Tom Thomas on 13/10/2017 02:46:09: Wow mark, looks great! I see you opted for rubber bands on the canopy too. Just watched the vid and it flies fantastically, I'm looking forward to the maiden, but I'm going to use my Wildthing for experience first. Thanks for sharing mark Hi Tom, Thanks for the kind comments, Yes I did opt for the rubber bands for keeping the canopy on - as well as the wings, No-one is going to notice them once it's up there airbourne lol I don't think you will have any problems flying this one, it was easy enough on the 2 channel set up when I had it, now you have ailerons on yours it should be a much better flyer. On reflection, I think it should have been an aileron / elevator design from the start - it could have still been 2 channels but even much better to fly. You've seen the video of the original, forget the Wildthing and get yours up there. I would love to see some footage of yours with the aileron set up Mark. Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 14/10/2017 04:27:14
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